naru

Plenty of times. Bad pump/filter sock. The pressure will drop off under high load going up a hill. Pump will not pass a flow test. Might pass a stationary pressure test(no load)

No they don`t. Both turbo engines use the same AAV(auxilary air valve) for high idle on a cold engine. No CTS involved.

The CTS is not ypur high idle culprit. The ECU in turbo cars does not control idle speed according to coolant temperature like a SPFI car does. Have you:tried adjusting idle speed via the large brass idle speed adjustment screw in the throttle body?

I did install a new AC pump so I'd think that should had fixed that issue? You tell us. Look down the carb w/rngine off.Does it squirt fuel w/the throttle is opened?

High cold idle is probably a misadjusted fast idle screw. No hot idle could be a lot of things. Bad or unpowered anti diesel solenoid Flooding(how is the level in the sight glass?) Misadjusted idle mixture or speed screws Blocked idle passages Vacuum leak etc......

I took off my air intake manifold from on top of the engine to bypass the oxygen It is not goimg to run w/o the airflow meter

It is not misadjustment of the throttle stop. What happens if you attempt to increase idle speed w/the idle speed screw?(w/isc DISCONNECTED) What is the ECU LED doing? What is the O2 sensor voltage? I`d feed it some propane to see if it smooths out.

Vacuum leaks don`t just come only from vacuum lines. Might be an unmetered air leak between the MAF and throttle body instead. Would be the same symptoms. Check the big intake hose and everything attached to it for leaks. That hissing DOES sound like a vacuum leak though.

Crankshaft o ring-413967100 Looks like they are NLA I`d use a genaric subsitute.

Of course not,it is a turbo,but on the plus side,there is no carb. More reliable than an ea82 turbo though. Yes you can swap in a manual trans.

I drive mine every day. The turbo is not pointless. It is all about the area under the torque curve,not horsepower. The ea81t has plenty. My automatic works fine. The torque multiplication combined w/the small turbo makes for an excellent around town car. Mine spun the wheels at a wet stoplight this morning. Not sure which parts you consider so problematic. I just put a $20 Chinese fuel pressure regulator on mine. I have to agree though,if you modify it,you will probably wreck it. The heads get too hot at much higher than stock boost.

You sure about being 180 out? Engine would not run if the timing was 180 out. Sounds more like an OVER fueling problem-carb flooding -bad injector or MAF etc.

It has a wire,right? I think that is "Solenoid valve #1" It controls the air suction valve.

Check the fusible links in the box near the battery.

Yes,as long as it is 85/6. You need to remove one of the mounting tabs and swap in the ea81 gear.

No,tighten 2 nuts together and use the "bottom" (top in this case)one to turn the stud.

The idle switch is part of the throttle position sensor. When they say "make sure the switch is closed" they mean make sure the throttle is closed(assuming the TPS is OK). You can test the switch w/a meter.

Hard to understand where the code came from. If the solenoid is bad,it was bad before you hooked up the vacuum. Should have triggered the check engine light earlier as well. What is the code?? EGRs can be bad in other ways. Sometimes the valve does not seat resulting in a poor idle. Or,some people get silly about "removing all that emissions crap" whether the reults are detrimental or not. An inoperative EGR messes up ignition timing at cruise.

He wrote it down,but,may have used something else. Been a while,but I think it was 85/140 that gave me cold weather trouble. Might be worth draining and refilling.

You need thinner gear oil. I once had one that took 2 hands to shift unless you idled in neutral for a while to warm up the oil. I bet your guy used thicker than stock gear oil. I did.

Nope,any OHV engine 1975(maybe earlier) and up. Your looking for Subaru 82550 4100 in case that helps.

You might have to go used. Every subaru engine since 1975 used the same part. Try the classifieds.Someone will have one.

You could try the ole jam the breaker bar against something and use the starter trick.

Normal thread,IIRC.

Been there done that. No,the gear comes out right after the seal. Fairly easy.