naru

Those 4 go to the boost sensor mounted on the firewall. This sensor runs the vacuum.boost gauge only. Not needed for engine. You will want that pressure switch hooked up,though.

Low fuel pressure.

Check fuse #11. If OK verify ignition relay operation. Check fuses 5 and 12 too.

Probably an ignition fault. Got spark?

Your idle speed control is sticky.Clean it w/carb cleaner. Holding the gas pedal down w/starting CUTS OFF the GAS. It is not starting normally because there is too much gas. You might also have a leaky injector(look for dripping after shutdown) or corrosion on the coolant temperature sensor connection.

You are still barking up the wrong tree. The FPCU is not that complicated.It merely senses primarty ignition pulses created by the ignition module and closes some fuel pump relay contacts in response. A brand new FPCU is NOT GOING TO WORK withouit primary ignition pulses(flashing test light on coil negative w/cranking) The only components common to the ignition and FPCU are fusible link #2 and the ignition switch. Since you have power at the coil,they look OK. FYI,the module has 3 connections.Ground at the bottom is the 3rd. Therefore there are 6 possible arrangements of the meter leads when using the diode test. Use them all for comparing. An open on the ground side = dead module I only have a turbo module to test so I cannot provide #s for yours. Ignition needs to work in order for the FPCU to work,not the other way around.

There is no relay.(other than the one internal to the reg.) Pump and choke are powered off the "H" terminal of the voltage regulator w/alt. spinning. If you have power at the choke,you should have it at the pump. Reg." A" terminal should be always powered. F terminal should be powered w/ignition on. E should be grounded The original electromechanical regulators are subject to corrosion of the contact points and sticking armatures. Current replacements are fully electronic.

Water choke is vastly superior to the electric one. USE it. More reliabe too. A little harder to install,but,the water choke sets the choke according to actual engine temperature instead of some arbritary timed response.

Best way to check them is w/them installed and a test light on coil - when cranking(you want pulses) after verifying ground,power and signal wire connections at the module. Or,use the diode check function of your multimeter to check voltage drops across the semiconducter junctions. Bad modules usually show an open terminal. Best to have a good module for comparison.

Fix one thing at a time. You won`t get fuel w/o spark. Put your test light on coil -. If it lights up w/cranking but does not pulse,then the module or the wires to it are bad. You cannot test a Hitachi module w/an ohmmeter. Since it is a semiconducter device,ohmmeter readings are MEANINGLESS. The diode check function of your multimeter is more useful especially if you have a good module to compare to. Overvoltage can kill the modules. So can bad or disconnected spark plug/coil wires.Test THEM w/an ohmmeter. The FPCU is not meant to prime the carb. The carb already has fuel in it.

Too bad you are a liar and that is NOT TRUE. You will be on here again every time sombody mentions ROCKAUTO. Everybody BUT YOU seems to like them.I do. We are tired of your sniveling and whining. SHUT TFU!

Maybe slightly too much play,but,that won`t be the reason for no spark. Got power at the coil?

Ignition switch,ignition switch connector,neutral safety switch or clutch switch or starter relay if so equipped. Could be a bad harness connection too. Move your voltmeter progressively towards the solenoid starting at the ignition switch input to pinpoint the offnding component. I had to hotwire my neutral safety switch for reliabe starting.

Try the local GM dealer.Pretty sure that is where I purchased some. Failing that,take a sample to some of the other dealers. Or,this website will have something for you. https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/index.php/cPath/109_181?osCsid=n7ii080oio1sdrqvnkg09ikj22

IIRC = if I recall correctly Website above shows 2 different sizes for both idle jets and idle jetholders.

IIRC,the jets? and holders come in 2 sizes for the DGV series carbs. Order the other one(s). http://www.dellortoshop.com/contents/en-us/p880_Idle_Jet_Holder_for_Weber_DGV_DGAV_and_DGEV.html

Nippon Reinz Part Number:W0133-1643681-NRZ https://www.carid.com/nippon-reinz/carburetor-base-gasket-mpn-w0133-1643681-nrz.html?singleid=98244209&url=18401870 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nippon-Reinz-W0133-1643681-NRZ-Carburetor-Base-Gasket/311597176299

I am confused. Does the sender have proper resistance now? Acetone likely won`t do much. I use a pencil eraser and a gentle touch to clean the contact areas. Has not failed yet.

Look for a pressure loss after shut down. I pulled mine and let them drip into test tubes overnight for confirmation.

Leaky injectors

Put your ohmmeter between the switch body and input after unplugging. Operate the switch. Condemn it for anything other than infinite ohms. While you are at it,check resistance to ground of the output wire to the lights. Should be no less than 1/2 the resistance of a brake light bulb element. Might want to shake the harness etc. while testing. I use a circuit breaker in place of the fuse for these situations. Saves a lot of fuses.

Don`t really know,but,since the pressure switches and senders have BSP format threads,I would expect the plugs to be the same.Sure it isn`t tapered?

https://www.amazon.com/Revolution-Electronics-Electric-Controller-Primes/dp/B00BNZ05JM

Connect the ungrounded pump wire to battery positive thru a fuse and a switch. (You lose the safety feature of the pump stopping when the engine does.)

There are aftermarket substitutes for the FPCU. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/160932-revolution-sensorfpcuwill-this-work/ Check ebay for others. It is just a relay triggered by coil ignition pulses. Check the FPCU by checking for voltage at the pump w/cranking. You can hotwire the pump for testing purposes.