naru

It is completely normal for any fuel injected car to quit as soon as the pump fuse is pulled. NONE will run "a minute or two". Carbed cars are another story. I would buy the $19 pump and carry it as a spare.

Non turbo spec is "greater than 80 litres/hour at 36 psi" Unused gas is indeed returned to the tank. A pump that is VERY much too large may be able to overwhelm the pressure regulators ability to return fuel to the tank quick enough. I think almost all brands of fuel pumps are made in China. Pretty sure the Carters are. Also pretty sure the DENSOs are Japanese.They supply OEM pumps for several manufacturers.

Rockauto has many brands,some as low as $19. I would not be afraid to use that one. Or,if you are the nervous type,then get the DENSO for $90 or so. Only one I would not use is the CARTER. Used pumps are like used toilet paper,IMO. Pretty crappy.

Sounds like a fuel supply issue to me.Pump or filter. Replace the filter first.Nothing lost if that is not it. An on road fuel pressure test would be great.

You might look for a local shop w/a tire truing /shaving machine. They could match the circumference of a new tire to your old ones.

Yes.the ECU thinks the engine is very cold and overfuels. First clue was only starting w/the start signal ecu wire depowered.This leans the mixture. Sounds like you have another CTS handy,but,if not,you could subsitute a resistor in the 5000-8000 ohm range(simulating a semi cold engine) for testing.

That will be your problem. Should be a max. of 12,000 at 14 F, Less at higher temps

There are no aftermarket ECUs for purchase,AFAIK. The harness will have to come from a wreck. Plenty of ECUs listed at http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi Not so many harnesses listed,but,anybody with an ECU is likely to have a harness too. Try these #s on ebay.Several there. Try a want ad on this site.Someone has what you neeed for sure. $400 should buy several ECU/harness sets. 22611-AA140 Electronic Control Module, (LH dash), 3 Dr (Cpe, Lftbk, VIN G), turbo, ID 22611-AA141 Electronic Control Module, (LH dash), 3 Dr (Cpe, Lftbk, VIN G), turbo, ID 22611-AA150

AFAIK,they are still available from Subaru, You are looking at something well north of $200 though. Try an ad in the parts wanted section of this website. IMO,it would be cheaper and simplier to buy a complete transmission.

You do not absolutley need the socket. I did mine with a punch. I have also made a very similar Alfa Romeo Alfetta rear axle socket by buying a 3/4 drive socket of the correct diameter and grinding the face until it had pins in the right places. Took a coule of hours,but,worked great. Had to rattle it 3-4 minutes w/the impact.Not sure if a punch would have worked on that one.

It is called an injector holder. Dealer or wrecker. Subaru 16605 AA010,$10-$15 The cracks do not really matter, Mine look about the same. You want them in place. http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/HOLDER-FUEL-INJECTOR---------------------MPIB/49228220/16605AA010.html

That is the anti-diesel solenoid.It cuts fuel to the idle circuit to prevent run on, If it is faulty,you can gut it w/no ill effect in most cases. Might as well keep the Hitachi.

I know the part you mean. It is called a radiator plug, Subaru 7451 2600 Gasket 7451 28020 About $5 Dealer or wrecker. See if you can spin the broken piece out(its threaded)w/a small sharp screwdriver or similar.

K&N air filters are junk for the suckers. You are not going to gain power or mpg, You are going to lose filtration ability, Oil analysis shows engines running K&Ns have greater oil contamination from airborn debris. The non replacable filter element is a downside not upside, They are a pain in the rump roast to service, The foam is subject to developing holes w/repeated handling-say goodbye to any pretense of filtration, I cringe when I see a K&N. Stick with the paper element.

Cool,How about a photo of this radical Fiat. 850?

You still don`t. The factory does not use dropping resistors on the EA-81T I have rebuilt my EA-81T engine wiring harness in recent months.I`m driving it now.

Then you will like this. The factory does not use dropping resistors on the EA-81T

How did you determine that? The factory does not use dropping resistors on the EA-81T. What IS your application exactly?

Not issues if you stay within the machining limit,but,you will get a slight compression ratio increase and slightly retard the valve timing.

That head is quite warped. The tolerance limit is .002(.05mm),not .005 inches.

Perhaps the control unit is seeing a low ATF temperature. http://subarufanclub.cz/wiki/_media/navody/4eat/subaru_4eat.pdf You may find this helpful. Probably irrelavant,but,I once had an Isuzu trooper that would not shift into 4th because of a faulty ENGINE temperature sensor. Customer diagnosed and supplied a trans only to have the same problem after replacement!

Pump should run w/the relay jumpered. Try tapping on the fuel pump w/the relay jumpered. You will hear the pump run.This has never failed to get a "dead" pump going for me. Make sure the relay has power.If not,check the fusible links. Good luck.

Sounds very much like the carb is flooding slightly because of a leaky or sticky float valve. Since you have an EA-81 this is fairly simple to check. Merely check the fuel level in the sight glass.(I love those)

Sounds more like the neutral switch in this case. You can check it w/an ohmmeter. I resolved my starting issues by removing the wires from the neurtral switch and connecting them directly. No more switch = no more problem.

It might still be the switch. The coil does not draw any current with the engine stopped so a simple voltage check might not show a bad switch. I would eliminate the run contacts by running a temporary jumper wire (fused) between coil + and battery +. If it runs now,you will need to remove the wire to kill the motor.