kevinsUBARU

did the linkage disconnect from the motor? Sometimes those plastic "cups" dry rot and break off. Easy fix. kevin

off da hook yo:banana: good score

I saw one on the road today...It definately sets it apart from other Bajas out there. I give it a thumbs up. It looked pretty nice/different. Yay to quirky styling!!

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=385838&highlight=converting+to+AWD Q: "What components are needed to convert a FWD Subaru to AWD? Also read as 'Transmission swap technicalities'" A: A new transmission will be required. Along with the new transmission comes the front diff, center diff, and tailshaft. You must also get the corresponding driveline for the transmission (side note here, if you are merely swapping one AWD transmission for another the MT typically shares one driveline between all other MTs and the ATs share another driveline; the STi 6-speed uses an AT driveline). There are many rear diff options, and any of them can be used as long as the final drive matches the final drive of the rear diff of the donor car the transmission came from. Front axles should be interchangeable, but newer axles are thicker. CV strength has remained the same and are not a weak point. Rear open diffs can be found on most Subaru models. Rear LSD s came on some Legacy Turbos, Some SVXs, 2000-2001 2.5RSs, and 2002+ WRXs. While final drive ratios vary, the axle splines do not. Your diff choice governs which rear axles are to be used. You will either need rear axles from an open diff Legacy or GC/GF/GM Impreza for an open diff or rear LSD axles from a 2000-2001 Impreza 2.5RS (ask for axles from 05/2000+ to be safe) for a rear LSD. If you are converting from AT to MT or viceversa, you will need the corresponding ECU since the AT ECU expects a TCU signal. You can spoof it as some have done. "What else is needed?" Along with the basic driveline components, you are going to need most of the rear suspension and mounts from the transmission back. This includes the transmission crossmember, rear diff crossmember (and all in between), AWD gastank with driveline hump, struts and springs, AWD knuckles, a plethora of bushings, with the possibility of lateral links, swaybar, and trailing arms also being needed. Your best bet is to find an entire donor car that can be stripped. If that is not an option, you will be, as beachbum has said, 'nickle-and-dimed to death'.

Look for some Hercules PolarTrax. They only cost me $299 for the whole set (mounting, valves, and stems included) and this is their 4th winter. Prices have not changed at all Kevin

I agree on the lack of prior service and stuff on it. The owner(s) neglected it, and you now have the problems. I had a similiar situation with my car because of the previous owner, but most of the gremlins are worked out now :-) For example, Its just like people who buy a WRX, import a JDM engine, make countless mods, then decide they want to sell the car. They take their engine out, but the OEM back in, as well as OEM everything else. Would you as a buyer know that the car had the snot beat out of it? Nope:o

They overfilled my radiator reservoir last time I went to Valvoline. What they dont realize is that the full line is like 2.5 inches from the bottom of the tank, not 3 inches from the top:-) I always tell them not to touch my tire pressure. Some have the balls to ask what pressure is currently in them but those guys are rare. I tell them no to everything they offer me, and just say that I did it like a month ago.

That has RX300 written all over it

I jsut got an ipod a month ago and I couldnt be happier I'm currently in the same situation, but my CD player is on the way out, so this might not be a problem for much longer! Kevin

I would burn your whole interior...thats nasty!

you're wasting your $$ if you put anything more than 87 in! And gas brand does have a huge play in performance also. I got sucked into using my BJ's Wholesale Card for gas at their store (like a Sams Club) where members get 10 cents off per gallon. Well, I usually get about 110 miles on a quarter tank, and I didnt even crest 40 on the last fillup:banghead: Back to Mobil for me!

did you drive into a garage with you bike on your thule/yakima rack like I did? Thats the only reason I can think of you wanting those pieces...I really screwed mine up bad when I did that:bday:

yeah, Im not talking about those plastic thingies....I'm talking about full blown wrap around headlight and grill protection. I will try and find pictures. Infact, I just saw a Forester not more than 10 minutes ago with one:-)

yep. Im in New York

Am I the only one who has seen quite a few (0ver 10) outbacks and foresters with full blown brush guards?

Ive changed the diff oil twice on my Impreza. I take the top one out first, then the bottom, clean the bottom one up, clean the diff housing, then put the bottom back in. Forget the pump thingie...you can just bend the bottle in half and "baby bottle" it. It works like a charm everytime:headbang: btw, 75/90 Mobil 1 Synthetic is what I use. If youre going to be towing or anything, get a 80/90 weight

At the first snow, take it to a deserted parking lot of good size and you will be able to answer all of your questions Have fun! Do donuts, power slides, ect.... On the way there though, take it easy You'll be pleased with your purchase!

I have a 95 Impreza L that I bought in the winter of 99 with 44K on it. It has 91,xxx now, and its usually well behaved It failed state inspection once (steering rack), siezed calipers, waterpump left me stranded on the side of the road at 60K...and thats about it The car also had $3500 in body damage when it was crushed by snow that fell off of a roof in the winter of 2002, and suffered another $700 when someone kicked my trunk in a few months ago. Its one tough car though. It has brought be through incredible snowstorms, it can drive through 3 feet of snow no problem (yeah, its deep when its up to your hood), its been through stream crossings, rough rocky trails, and even one rally cross event. I put on over 2K miles a month this past summer, and its still chuggin...I cant wait for a replacemt though once I graduate college in the spring. I want this one to get well over 100K and then I am getting a manual tranny Subaru Trying to convince the gf to get a mini cooper though:D

probably just a joyrider:brolleye: I hope you get it back!

Great reading article, and I am sure some of you will appreciate it Happy reading! http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/classicamx/jeep-sub/jeep-sub.htm

I could have sworn I read somwhere that Subaru got rid of the plastic on '04 models, and it was a very hard decision for them.

could be a catalytic converter on the way out if you think you may be smelling rotten eggs

Ok then, if you know its not the oil, then why did you even mention it? Well, I already described the location of the fuel filter if you read my post. Im just trying to help here, and no one else really is...Im going to edit my post and put it in bold for you. Your attitude and list of cars seems very familiar to me...its not a good idea to get people mad again.

I know we all love talking about Jiffy Lube:drunk: Anyhow, I was at the dealer today and they have not 1, not 2, but 3 dead Subarus on the lot with blown engines because of Jiffy Lube. Enough said:-) Kevin

Ok, so that means you have a misfire (99% of the time at least). Try and narrow it down to the cylinder in question. Start the car and then pull the spark plug wires out of the block one at a time. If you pull one out and the engine doesnt try and stall, that is your problem. Yank the plug out and check it for abnormal characteristics. While youre at it, you might as well change all of the plugs, and change that fuel filter too...it probably needs it. What about the tapping? Did that get louder? Maybe a defective oil pump starved the engine? Do the plug test first to narrow it down. It is a silver canister on the driverside fender well. Pull the two hoses off (it will drip gas out of the filter, but it is not pressurized at all) and reconnect on the proper nipples on the new canister. It takes maybe 10 minutes if your hoses are hard to get off. A squirt of WD40 on the end of the hose where it meets the filter is helpful:-) Good luck with it! Kevin