LostWater

We have two Justy's one with a blown motor. We are thinking about cutting out the fenders and mounting 12" tractor tires on it. It is plenty powerful for use around the farm when all it will be in is 4wd 1st gear anyways. We also plan on cutting the top off behind the seats and building a flat dump bed for hauling wood, and fencing and other crap like that. Mark

No takers? Just a bump

Hello All, I wil be driving a 16 ft car trailer empty from VA to New Orleans and Houston on June 18. We will be vacationing in New Orleans June 18-25, then picking up a parts tractor in Houston for the way back home. I have hauled several subarus on the trailer before, hauls the tractor good, so I would be happy to trailer a subie or any other car any point between Roanoke VA and New Orleans or Houston. There also is enough time that I could pick up a vehicle in the DC area next week when we are up there for a funeral. Mark

I also have the 105 amp conversion done. When cruising along in 4th gear, my guage also does not show any charging happening below like 1500. I haven't had any problems recently, but if all one does is drive around city streets, they likely won't keep their battery charged and will definitely have to put a smaller pully on there. Another thing, make sure your belt is TIGHT as the 105 amp alt is a harder beast to turn and the belt could slip more than when stock was on. Mine did, until I tightened it up. Mark

Harbor freight has the same chinese stuff that northern has, but harbor freight is cheaper. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45009 Don't use the oiler function for obvious reasons. I have just a water/moisture seperator, cost me $25 from harbor freight, it is big. some silicosis links: http://www.silicosis-injury-attorneys.com/pages/sandblasting_risks.html http://www.soda-blaster.com/Preventing%20Silicosis%20and%20Deaths%20From%20Sandblasting.htm http://www.slider.com/enc/48000/silicosis.htm Tractor supply has abrasive media cheap. I have heard of people building their own blasting booths to capture the media. me, I just use sand and a dust mask and do it out on the farm so the sand blows everywhere. Mark

I got a big a** compressor and I bought that $60 harbor freight special. The bad thing is I used regular sand (I'm cheap) and the sandblaster would clog up badly because of the moisture. Make sure you get hydrophobic media, or use a water seperator on your air line. Make the line as short as possible too. Be very, very, very careful about silicosis if you use silica based media (regular sand), the silica can break apart and when you inhale it, it embeds in your lungs permanently. It is like abestosis in this regard, scary bad stuff. use a respirator. I tried blasting some of my Sambar gas tanks and it exposed how ate up the tanks really are. i will probably have to send them to the gas tank renu people. Mark

I could trailer a 360 sedan and a 360 van to Carlisle. Neither run presently, but they would be presentable enough to make a showing of sorts. Mark

Did my throttle cable today, I used a cable ordered from Crapa, they got it the very next day. $8.70 w/tax. Now I know why it was such a great deal. The little solder dingies were such a pain in the arse to install at either end, They were slightly too big to go into the fixed side. I finally got them in there with a lot of muskle (intentionally misspelled) and squeezing with the pliers. Also, the plastic tab that snaps into the firewall was also too big and I had to file the hole a hair bigger with my pliers in a parking lot. Got it in though, but it should of taken me 30-40 minutes instead of 1 hour. The subie oem part costs not much more (~$15) but likely worth it for the lack of aggravation. My take, Mark

Patti, between your reply here and the one you referenced earlier, I know exactly what I need to do. Thanks for that. I checked the haynes and the clymers tonight and there was nothing about the throttle cable. The Keep Subaru Alive book had a wonderful description on how to do it, but your description is better. Thanks again, Mark

At work with no access to Haynes, or HTKYSA, or chiltons, so maybe someone will look this up for and kinda give me a clue. I took my hatch to get inspected and they busted my throttle cable, so now I need to install one. I see on the back of the gas pedal there is a hole for one end of the cable, then it goes through the firewall to the carbie. Ok, on the firewall, in the engine compartment, where the cable goes through, should what looks like a grommet pullout? Its kind of tight on my car. Will the replacement cable snap into this hole? I am kind of in a bind here, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Mark

Hey Skip, thanks so much for the response. I have an aluminum ea-82 radiator installed in place of the slimy green copper one that I pulled out of it sometime ago. The thermo switch on it appears to have two leads coming out of it. One is perpendiciular to the other. Maybe I should pull that out and install the one from an ea-81? I hope that you might know the wiring sequence for hooking the two lead ea-82 one up though. I was thinking of hooking the fan (likely two at some point) to a relay with an override toggle in the dash (for water crossings and such), the relay being required if I were to tap off of the battery I assume. With the fan running all the time now, and that bigger al rad, My ea-81 hatch didn't warm up on the drive to work this morning. (22 miles, 35 minutes), barely enough to blow some heat. Again, thanks for the help, Mark LostWater@LostWater.com

Hey all, My connector that hooks to the rad fan is gone, or, I don't know what to do with connector that is just flapping along. Right now, I have the fan hooked directly into a connector hanging down there, so it is on all the time the ignition is on. Question is: I want to use the thermo switch in the rad to turn fan off and on. Where should I pull a power lead from; which connectors on the thermo switch are what? I know that the thermo switch closes a circuit when it is warm enough, so that part should be easy. I just need to know which lead on the thermo switch is in, which is out. And, of course, where should I pull a hot wire to power the works? I hope this made sense? Thanks a bunch,

Maybe I can show up and bring whatever 360 project will be farthest along. Maybe a van, maybe a sedan. Carlisle is like 5.5 hrs from me, so not too bad. MD

If you can get the master cylinder cheap reman, then you will be better off than using a used one. Reman MCs can be had for $35 in many places. Mark

Skip, for the 02 sensor, I should just be able to see the cat, and the sensor sticking out. For ecu, where would that be? I may have to wait for some of this stinkin snow to melt though, we had 6" and the car is on the back of the farm (I could break my neck getting to it). Mark

If I didn't mangle the harness, I will be happy to send it to you. The car was an 86 dl wagon 2wd, 5 speed I believe. It ran when parked (~5-6 years). Mark

Converting to a GM alt, and upgrading the alt to 120 ampers via the jctwitney kit, will be easier than trying to source and XT6 alt, then breaking out the grinder and grinding the alt case. See this thread below for my writeup and pics and graphic on my own conversion: Gm Alt writeup MD

I live at the sheetend of a 3.5 mile dirt road, in the mountains, with snow. I wouldn't have a car without 4wd (well, not a car past 1980, as the 360s and the vw bus do not have 4wd) I can't even get up my 1/3 mile driveway when snow is out without 4wd. So, all cars we drive are 4wd and since the Justy can be 4wd, we won't have one without it. Anybody have a clue as to if this swap is even doable, or, are we treading into new territory? Thanks, Mark

Is it possible that since you have some sort of relationship that you may be able to call them and ask them? Thanks for your comment. Mark

Hey all, I could score a nice Justy fer cheep with a toast ECVT tranny. I also have a Justy with what is probably a good manual push button 4x4 tranny in it. Has anybody done this kind of swap? How hard would it be? Is it just a matter of swapping tranny, shafts, cable, and pedal box? Or is it more involved like body fabrication? Anybody care to comment? Thanks all, Mark

We have a Justy up here with what seems to be a good engine. The engine can probably be swapped in a day. We can also score another one with a good engine/badtranny fer cheep. md

I could help with the details, if you are close to Atlanta as I will be in Atlanta soon for a weekend. Let me know. MD

I had the same symptons on several of my subies and almost all - it was the master cylinder. If bleeding doen't work, get a remanufactured master cylinder, prolly ~$25-$40. It fixed that problem in mine and an easy install too, just be sure you bleed again when done. The fancy vacuum bleeders are like $40 at Harbor Freight if you find yourself bleeding all the time by yourself.

If you go the new route for the strut cartridge, you will be better for it if you get KYB - they make the best struts and shocks (well, some say Bilstein does). You likely won't spend too much money either. I think Advance (do they have those in AK?) can order you KYB. If you had the dough, news springs are in order, as shocks(and strut cartidges) are just the damper for the rebound - they are not supposed to be the thing that holds the car up. The salvage yard may be a good place to start - look for a set on a car with low miles. Otherwise, new springs would likely cost you ~$60 a piece. Good Luck, md

I Don't drink, so it won't be me behind a wheel after drinking. Torxx, who is being the asck? This is the second post you hijacked saying "this didn't happent to me, so go for it". What kind of advice is that? Someone like you won't put my panties in a twist, so stop trying, you'll be better off for it in the end. MD