All_talk

The one on mt RX has a hole in the bracket and a bump on the mount surface so that it can only fit in a fixed location. I've had it off a few times with no issues, I could measure the space (when I get home) if it would help. Gary

I'm assuming this is a early '87 with the flapper style MAF, as there is no mention of by-passing the fuel cut. Gary

I've tested stock wastegates on the VF7 (VF2?) off the car with a regulated air supply and got 7psi at lift off (first movement). The boost control on the '87 and later EA82T will run the pressure up to 9-10psi at times. Gary

You picked a bad machine shop, I hope you didn't pay them. If you were closer to me I could probably help you out, but you should be able to find someone local. One note, I would get the parts (or assembly) balanced, a driveline shop should be able to handle it... maybe the machine work too. Gary

FWIW, I have a spare turbo reportedly off a EA82T that looks just like the one on my RX and Turbo coupe (both EA82Ts) that is stamped VF2. Gary

OK, here's the scoop, I've been looking for flow/compressor maps for the RHB5 for years... They don’t exist, Warner-Ishi (IHI) never released any for the VF series. The only one I’ve found is from the book “Turbochargers” by Hugh Maclnnes, it show a very sparse map (no efficiency lines) for the 311A and 393B trims… whatever those are? If anybody ever finds others please let me know. Some info and flow mapping of the TD04-13G (WRX) and RHB5 in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22146&page=1&pp=10&highlight=flow+map+tdo4%2A Gary

Yeah, I dont even think chrome would stay for long, the exhaust side casting could see 1200F+. Maybe one of the exhaust coatings like Hot Jet or the like. Gary

Actually $450 is not all that bad, It's a bit spendy, but if its the last part you need for a nice rig you could justify it. I wonder if it fits both front and rear? Might be just the thing for the divorced T-case guys. For me (street car) I think a VLSD will be smoother up front on the steering axel, so I'm leaning tword a flipped 3.9VLSD, with a raised oil level to lube the bearings. Maybe I'll run a synthetic to reduce some drag. The diff in the trans is the real challenge, I know Mudrat's PG is working, but I'm not sure its the best choice for a road car running daily driver kinda mileage. Does anyone know if the front VLSD from the WRX/STI will fit into a Turbo Legacy 3.9 5MT? Gary

Is the TCU showing any codes... "power" light always on or flashing? You might try monotoring the voltage/duty cycle going to the "C" solenoid. The procedure for checking TCU codes and the pin outs for the connectors are online somewhere, I'll try and hunt them down if you need them. Look here for a little more info on how the 4EAT system works and the "torque bind" issue (not your problem). http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36459&highlight=duty+4eat+all_talk Gary

Mary, My grit recommendations were for pre paint, IF you are sanding between coats, as John said, 600 is good. 1000 to 5000 grits are used to level topcoats before buffing, but only lacquers (which nobody uses anymore) and clears should be finish sanded (not positive about single stage urethanes). Sanding enamel topcoats will remove the sealed outer skin and they will oxidize very quickly and require constant buffing and waxing to keep any level of gloss (don’t ask me how I know ). Myfinalcoffinx, hard to tell you how to go with fixing the dents without seeing them. The general rule for plastic filler is no thicker than 1/8” build after sanding, if it’s thicker than that you still have metal work to do. Filler built up in thinner layers will hold and last better than one thick slab. “DA” was covered by FirstSubaruGLwagon, they are the proper tool for the job and have a great advantage. A cheap one won’t last well but for one paint job if will work fine (you need a BIG compressor to run it), and there will still be a LOT of hand sanding. Gary

It looks like you're ready to do it real soon, if I wasn't so backed up with other work I would offer you a good deal on spraying it. Or at least rent you my booth and gun for a small fee. Anyway, like John said, wash it first with dish detergent then a good rub down with fine (grey) scotch-brite, you can even do the detergent wash with the scotch-brite. If you are going to do some sanding use 400 grit or finer with a DA sander, end with at least 600 if you're hand sanding. I find removing trim is often easier than proper masking and certainly makes for a better paint job, but you have to be quite careful with reassembly. Gary

This view shows the D/R gears pretty well. The lower counter staft in the set is one piece, so this and the two main shaft gears would have to be manufactured, not a cheap idea. The other problem is space, a lower ratio gear set will take up more space. But If you look at the gear set it looks like the first set is 1:1 and the entire ratio is in the second set, if you are building your own gears you could add some ratio to this first set, possibly inverting the tooth count of the second set, resulting in a 3.184:1 low gear... but that kinda torque may give rise to other transmission problems. Gary

Could be an axle/CV problem, take a look under the car for torn CV boots. Any change in the brake pedel feel or travel? Pull the wheel off and look for loose parts, pull and pry, check the caliper, brake pads and the axel nut. Gary

Unless the ER27 is different than its EA82 little brother, its a non-interference engine, so there is no damage when the timing belt breaks. So if the engine is showing no other signs of needing a rebuild I wouldn't open it up. Gary P.S. it would be a good idea to check/replace a few thing while you are doing the belts, tensioners, water pump, oil seals and such.

Old thread on the subject. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15410&highlight=inside+D%2FR+F%2FT+diff+locker Gary

I did some searching but questions still remain… What years have independent front suspension? Any with R160 or R180? What ratios are common or available? Any with LSD? And, in a stock truck setup, looking from the front of the rig which way dose the front driveline turn, clockwise (right?) or counter clockwise? Gary

I'm in the club, my RX rolled 300,000 miles last week, thread here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37232&highlight=All_talk I have 4 Subes all over 100k, '92 Legacy SS 128k, '91 Legacy 186k, '87 GL Wagon 270k, '87 RX 300k. Gary

With the engine mounted midship and the fuel tank relocated up front you should be able to get a very balanced weight distribution. But it will drive much different than a front heavy car. This is probably the single biggest disadvatage to the boxer/transaxle combo, but imagine the front overhange with a longitudinal inline 4 in front of the axle. Thats why all the I4s are transverse, but front mount transverse doesn't work as well for RWD/AWD. Gary

OK, I dont mean to sound like an A$$, but you have a computer controled fuel/ignition system and you have removed two of its input or output devices and you want to know if will affect how it runs?? :-\ Sorry Gary

Bushbasher is correct on this. Higher octane (HO) fuels burn slower, in a more controlled manner. Its about timing the ignition event, the peak cylinder pressure (PCP) and crankshaft angle. If HO fuel is burned in an engine properly timed for faster burning low octane (LO) the peak cylinder pressure will occur later than optimal. The burn period of the HO is longer and allows for smoother transfer of energy to the mechanics, but the next effect in a LO tuned engine is a wash. If the timing is advanced to move the PCP back to optimal some power gain can be realized. But the true advantage of the HO fuel is its ability to withstand higher pressure/temperature points without self-ignition. This is why HO fuel allows for higher boost pressures and/or compression ratios. BTW, Octane in the name given to eight carbon chain pure hydrocarbon (C8H18). Long ago internal combustion engines were tested with single molecular weight hydrocarbon fuels and octane was found to be the best. 92 octane fuel is supposed to perform 92% as well as pure octane. Gary

If the rest of the cooling system is in good order the stock pump is quite adequate, assuming a stock or lightly modded car. Gary

A mom named Gary?? :-\ :-p

I always thought that a FWD XT6 would be a great mid-engine project. It could be the true sportscar (2 seater) Subaru never made. BTW, Sports and race cars use mid-engine layouts because they handle better due to a lower polar moment of inertia. Think of it like a flywheel, if you have two flywheels of the same weight, one with most of the weight in the center, one with the most of the weight near the rim. The center weighted one will react quicker and require less energy to accelerate. Gary

Some dash pics just for fun. I'm running a 180deg thermostat and since I put in the new double core radiator it rarely moves off that, I can get it to mid gauge (about 192deg) with long boost runs up the pass (2-5 psi for about 4 miles), and long boost with the A/C maxed with bring it to about 2/3 on the gauge. But that was before I put the mechanical clutch fan back on. And yeah, my oil sender is messed, it checks out fine with a mechanical gauge, about 45psi at 3500rpm (75mph). Running 10W40 and over due for a change. I've only had it just over 100mph, and only about 3 times, I typically drive no more than 5mph over the limit. Gary

Yeah, the EA cars have a better dash/gauge layout than my Legacys, I like having full gauges and there is no good way to add them in the Legs. Thw turbo light comes on at any boost (above 0psi) and the center diplay shows all sorts of pretty lights (it was the '80s after all), doors, high beams, low range, and diff lock, what all it shows depends on the car and options. I should go take a pick with it all lit up. 75subie, I haven't really strung it out, but it gets up to 95mph or so pretty quick, over 100 takes a little bit. I'd bet it would top out in the 115-120mph range on flat ground with no wind. Gary