All_talk

YES, get it glowing dull red, it will come right out. And YES, Kroil is the best I've found. Gary

You put a fuse IN the "FWD" fuse holder, its under the hood near te firewall on the passenger side. I'd guess it would be less than $1000, but I'm not sure, I do virtually all my own work so I dont have a good idea what shops charge. Gary

If the battery was diconnected long enough it might have reset the ECU and its having ti re-learn the idle setup... just a thought. Gary

Definitely sounds like torque bind, again assuming it’s an A/T, there are two common causes: First, on the pre ’97 (I think that’s the year) there is an issue with wear between the rear output hub and the housing, it had no bearing and runs in the aluminum housing. Cure is a new rear housing, preferably the later style with the bearings. Second, the infamous “C” solenoid, it controls the engagement of the rear transfer clutch. It works on a duty cycle with full time/voltage being open and zero time/voltage closed, so if it fails the rear drive locks in all the time. You might try putting the FWD fuse in and see if the bind goes away (sends full power to the solenoid), if so, that would indicate the C solenoid is working. Both problems can be fixed with the trans in the car and if you’re handy could be a DIY. Hear is a pic of the tail housing and the C solenoid. Gary

Yes, the SVX is a 3.3, biggest Subie engine to date. Gary

Assuming the ride heights are an indication of corner weights, you seem to be heavy on the left so you should have more even distribution (and traction) turning left. That’s my guess, but there are a lot of other unknown variables. Gary

I know how you feel... but its still cheaper that a car payment. And remember two things. 1. A true feeling of accomplishment comes from effort (not just wads of cash). 2. If it was easy... everyone would do it. Gary

GREAT PIC, good form! Assuming a tie rod can be found for a fair price I'd say it was worth it. Gary

'87 GL Wagon, 260,000 '87 RX 3-door, 298,000 (47,000 in the last 9 months) Gary

Hey Austin I'm in Thorp/Ellensburg just on I-90 in central WA, if you run into any trouble and I can help just give me a ring. Home: (509) 964-9030 Cell: (509) 304-9699 Gary

I think he's talking about this one: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=737235&page=1&pp=25 Gary

YES, It will be stiffer! Now I don’t through around my qualifications often but I will mention them here… I am a Mechanical Engineer with 11 years experience in machine design. A coil spring is just a torsion bar wound up, and its length is a primary factor in its rate. Now when I say length I mean the length of the material used to make the spring, not its height. As long as the material is of constant cross section and the coil diameter is constant the spring’s initial rate will be linear. Only “active” coils count words the length, so wrapped ends and such that don’t move under compression don’t count. That’s how you create a progressive spring rate with the coils closer together on one end, as these coils bottom out the effective length gets shorter and the spring gets stiffer. I don’t have the proper equation at hand (its Saturday by gum), but its not exponential, if you cut the spring in a manner that removes 10% of its active length it will be 10% stiffer. When cutting coil springs in cars normally the reduction in ride height isn’t proportional to stiffness increase due to the removal of in-active coils that lower the car without adding spring rate. Captain Smarty Pants Gary

3 foot, 3/4" dowl from Fred Meyer... works in any weather! Gary

Not sure about Subies but most cars I've dealt with the oil is to be checked hot (engine off). And yes oil can expand significantly from cold to hot, I havent check it on my Subes but I've seen differances of 1/4 or more on the stick for some cars from hot to cold. Gary

The US auto market gets horrible service and quality, while the imports do have better initial build quality (the domestics rival that plastic ’55 Chevy model you build when you were 8), the “after the sale” service from the dealers is very American. We see cheap little cars with a 10 year/100,000 mile warranty and think “wow, that’s really good, how can they do that”. How? Because to most of the rest of the word that’s standard. Why does this happen in the US market?… because we accept it. Is Subaru using “stopleak” for warranty repairs in Japan and Europe? Maybe, but I kinda doubt it. I know that guy… he’s got a b!tchin Camaro. Gary

I think the real question is engine management. Gary

Stupid, just stupid (but you know that). :-p But do me a big favor, next time set up the video camera... that clip would be priceless. And yeah, you should be able to reboot it with the axel on the car, put it wont be much fun. I've rebooted lots of axels (I'm good enough now I dont even make a mess with the grease) and they are all still running, and the boots only cost about $12. When I bought my RX it had a bad boot on every axel and had been running that way for some time, I've put 46,000 miles on it since re-booting. Gary

Hey David First off, confirm it’s a head gasket, a bad intake gasket can cause “coolant out the tailpipe”, but wont show the other blown head gasket symptoms like: over heating, pressure/bubbles in the radiator, coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant. A compression check should confirm a bad HG. As far as to repair or not, I always look at it this way… The car is paid for (assuming) and costing me nothing, so figure the cost of fixing it (you or the mechanic). Now look at what kind of replacement car you could by with that amount of money. Unless its much newer with far less miles you just going to buying a somebody else’s potential problems (or a “pig-in-a-poke” as my dad would say). At least with your car you know what you have and what’s wrong. I do (almost) all my own work, so I’d fix it. But if you’re going to have to pay the mechanic $1500 for the job maybe you should sell it as is (if its as nice as you say it should bring at least $500), and put you $2000ish into something else. Gary

I found these pics over on XT6.net when I was look for some to post in another thread, they seemed pretty cool... just thought I'd share. This thread: http://xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1514&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30 Gary

EA81 2 Door Coupe XT (XT6 in this case) SVX Gary

Could be an EA81 coupe. Gary

245cc at what pressure? The 185ish figure is at the stock pressure of 36psi, alot of systems run 45psi. A 185cc @ 36psi injector would be about 231cc @ 45psi. Just to be sure we are compairing apples to apples. Gary

Yep, the duel core (all brass) was only stock in the turbo cars with the auto trans. Some places will show it as an "upgrade" for others. Gary

I have hear this theory several times before, but I just don’t see it, given the fuel systems layout it seems that #1 would see the most pressure drop if any exists. I’m betting in stock form there is very little pressure difference throughout the system, with mods who knows, some testing would be in order (easy enough with a fuel pressure gauge teed in at the regulator). There are a couple of thing that could be part of the “hot #3 problem”. One is simple geography, #3 is the furthest from the water pump and I see no provision for forcing more flow in its direction, this flow would also spend more time in the block with more pre-heating before reaching the head area. Second possible factor, there is an area in the block adjacent to the #3 cylinder bore that provides access to one of the case bolts. The area closes off the water jacket around the cylinder and could create less cooling. Though I doubt this would have a huge affect, as the cylinders have interrupted water jackets in the center anyways (Siamesed) and most of the heating is in the head. Just some thoughts Gary

What he said.