95legwagon

sounds like shifter bushings.....or bushings in the stay rod..... maybe its not getting into the gear enough and popping out....like going halfway in? idk check small things first. diagnosing gets pricey quick

take the crank too lol..... i can caryy a ej25 block no problem so you should be able to caryy it with a crank n maybe rods? ....its light.....get a decent crank so you dont hafta spend $300 on one

i have this set ( although its a small set ) works flawlessly and you can really torque on these wrenches.... and hit them with a BFH without a problem.... also the ratchet handle is a lil wider so comfort is definitly improved..... only thing i didnt like is that it doesnt come with a 12mm or 15mm socket. http://www.craftsman.com/news-universal-tool-set/nb-120000000132626 keep this in mind p.s. grabs all the soob bolts without an issue..... i would try to find a 12 and 15mm of these kind of sockets so you will have a complete set....they are awesome!!!

well i did it ( well most of its done) everything works so far.... just need to put in the rear diff before i fry my diff. no wierd sounds, clutch engaged very nicely, started right up with no wiring mods except the little black switch next to the 4eat shifter. i kept the inhibitor switch plugged in and left it in the park position so it starts. idle is a little high upon startup but as soon as its warm idles right around 800-1000rpm sometimes a lil lower. no CEL as of yet. performs well for running off center diff. (ugh) clutch is really touchy because its stage 1..... but otherwise runs like a champ..... smh at all those people on other sites saying you HAVE to ground the pin on the ecu and do all kinds of wiring. only things left to complete: rear diff install and back half of driveshaft, reverse lights (easy). thats it. didnt ground the ecu pin, didnt wire in the neutral safety switch. easy peazy.... just dropped trans and such components in and drove off. flywheel bolts were a B**** though! on there with over 150 ft lbs of torque!! ended up rounding almost all of them off.... walked to sears and got a rounded bolt remover set..... and worked like a charm! thanks to EVERYONE here for their help ( fairtax, gd , gloyal, lmdew, 987687 plus anyone who i missed) i appreciate all the help!! -jarrid oh and p.s. to whoever comes across needing mt tranny mount bolts doing a 5 speed swap ( use your old crossmember bolts ) they are the same size!! EDIT: MY BAD LOL CEL DID appear a day after getting it done on my way to work..... almost all wiring is done ....just need to do the NSS.

you were right..... very tight clearance!!! worked like a charm!!! thanks so much! -jarrid

this is a 5 speed swap so no hillholder, yes it is on the bottom stud and teh ground cable bracket goes onto the top bolt...... thanks

see the bolt doesnt even tighten all the way down like its too long lol maybe ill find a metal bushing and some washers to test...... like i said though no matter which way i twist it/push it in there it wont seat flush..... ill try though.... then after i bolt it down ill try to turn it over by hand and see if i hear it. thanks

it is the shifter centering spring i just looked at my bnib one and its identical except mine isnt black....

ok so pretty much done with the installing of the 95 5 speed into my legacy..... i got a 95 mt starter but the damn thing wont fit..... both the flywheel and the starter came off the same car ( 95 legacy mt). i know that it is different than the 4eat starter cuz the mt one is longer and actually will fit inside the hole.... the problem is that the starter is hitting i would think the flywheel. i would turn the engine over by hand while someone is holding the starter there and i can hear the teeth hitting.... is it supposed to be shimmed maybe?

what i did on my 95 lego ej22 was used the stock intake tube and bought a plate that mated to the maf sensor with a spot for a cone filter on the other side ( autozone )...... i also have a flexible tube that i run down the fender to the bumper for a cold air intake cuz if you leave it in the engine bay your not gaining anything lol hot air intake. has a nice throaty sound when you get on it but i really dont know if it gained anything.....

its relatively easy...... get a haynes manual from autozone..... it tells you step by step how to do it good luck! -jarrid

wth is a "pop top"? ive heard of a drop top ( convertible) is a pop top t-tops?

yea they do have issues lol im doing the 5 speed conversion right now..... good luck op

welcome to the forum sounds like you got a good grasp of soobs! if you need any help with anything just start a thread and im sure one of our many experienced members can point you in the right direction! Have fun -jarrid

no problem so i have started this project as of yesterday.... dont expect it to be an easy project by any means.... but if you are mechanically inclined than go right ahead and do it . oh i just learned yesterday that the starter comes out easiest on our years from the bottom of the car LOL. just dont let it hit you in the face....almost happened to me. also torque converter bolts are hard as all hell to get loose..... broke 2 12mm sockets yesterday as well as sliced my hand up pretty good. grab a haynes manual and it'll help some with the order in which parts come out before trans will drop.... and lastly..... READ, READ, READ. not for the faint hearted lol...... still got a couple days before its all done and ready to be driven

indeed it is a chunk of change..... but also i have read that this is quite a common thing to go wrong with our soobs....mine acts funny also but hasnt done this yet lol...... try F and S auto parts..... they have a website and are located in roxbury ct. just went there yesterday..... great junkyard and they have everything you would ever need for a soob

google "5 speed swap subaru" and youll get alot of reading info.....im tackling this right now....bout to start in like an hour

/\ i dont think so..... dieseling is a very easy thing to diagnose as nothing sounds like it but a diesel..... its most likely a bad ground near the ignition switch if i had to put my money on it.......we all know how subaru does theyre grounds on these cars...... i had to redo all my grounds to bare metal.... hey OP good luck

i really cant add to this thread but as with all 2.5's ....id start with having the headgaskets checked..... veeerrrryyy common problem..... and your 2000 legacy should definitly be a 2.5. not sure if this would cause a missfire but ya never know

thanks guys! i had no idea these guys were in milford! i might take a ride down there this weekend! its an hour away but it think it would be worth my while lol

bump.....come on guys help me out......car is terrible to drive......tryin to do a 5 speed swap n my 4eat leaks 2 quarts a day right on the cat....... hope it doesnt catch on fire!!!

did you check the dash light dimmer switch? it sounds stupid but its happened to me before.....

i would almost 99% guarantee thats what it is..... mine does the exact same thing..... its the fans kicking on....they pull enough current from the battery where the alternator puts a lil bit more stress on the engine causing the idle to drop. and it'll run the fans till its under a certain temp....then turn them off....then they'll come back on in a matter of 30-45 seconds in dead stop traffic.

i need a source ( besides stealership ) for a 5 speed tranny mount for my 95 lego....... dealer wants $170 for it..... WAYYYY too much.... what mount will fit? and where can i get one by at latest saturday? anybody have one for cheap they'd sell me? i can pay for overnight shipping.....i just need one ASAP. also any idea's on what years what models will fit just lemme know whatcha got! thanks guys!!! -jarrid

damn i forgot i asked this question! thanks sooooo much guys i really do appreciate it a ton..... getting ready to do the swap this upcoming weekend so i need all the info i can get on that id pin lol