WAWalker

Is that why I can't seem to upload any pics to the Photo Gallery?

If you have lifter noise get and oil pump.

Oil Pressure is NOT the issue when dealing with lifter noise on these engines. AIR BUBBLES in the oil (aerated oil) is the problem. Replacing the oil pump will fix this problem.

I've got one. E-Mail me. WWalker2615@aol.com

I emailed Legacy777 pics and a write up on cleaning the Hitachi IAC.

Should be on the RH strut tower along with the MPFI resistor.

Replace the oil pump. Has been proven by SOA and many independant Subaru techs that the oil pumps wear out on these engines. There is a reason that Subaru dealerships still stock these oil pumps. Yes, you can have great oil pressure, and the noise can come and go, and only be on one bank...........The problem is usually still the oil pump airating the oil.

There is no way in He!! the dealership would have had the engine tore down that far to do a warranty head gasket job. It is hard enough to get them to even do the head gaskets. What's the rest of the story?

You can't drill the '94 head, well you can, but..... Have been there done that, you drill into the water jacket. Don't know about the '93 head.

Well they have changed the endwrech web site up since I was last there. I believe there is a write up on replacing the 2.5 timing belt somwere on that site. First you should not have had the engine at top dead center when R&Ring the timing belt. If the timing belt was not installed properly the cam timing is off not the ignition timing. The '97-'99 DOHC 2.5L engine is an interferance engine, so hopfully you won't have any bent valves. You will need to take it apart and properly install the timing belt. And don't turn the cams at the same time with the timing belt off, this can cause bent valves due to valve to valve conntact. If it still runs poorly with the cams in time, you will need to do a leak down test to check for bent valves.

You need a 1995 2.2L to do this. Reason being.....'95 2.2L had the EGR, and duel port exhaust. The '96 2.2L has single port exhaust. So to use a '96 you would have to replace at leat your Y-pipe. You can't use '90-94 2.2L because they didn't have EGR. I don't know what the reason would have been for using a '96 intake manifold. I would think you could use the intake off whatever 2.5L you are replacing. If you use the intake and sensors off your old engine you shouldn't have any issues with fuel control, unless there was a problem before you started.

Josh, I don't have my digi cam w/ me today. I put your e-mail address in my address book. Will get some pic to you hopfully by the end of the week.

The bleeding part was directed at the person with the question about his 2000.

The rear O2 sensor is switching at a much lower frequency and with much less amplitude in the signal than the front because the cats are burning the hydrocarbons so the rich lean condition that existed before the cats is not as drastic after. If the frequency and amplitude of the rear sensor reach a certain level then the computer knows that the hydrocarbons that the front O2 sensor saw are not being sufficently burnt off by the time they reach the rear sensor. So yes the coumputer is using both sensors to moniter cat effiency. Cat efficency testing is why the rear sensor was added. I'm sure they are using the rear sensor info to adjust long term fuel trim now. I was questioning weather the first OBDII systems did. The front O2 sensor is not shooting for any thing. The computer is using the info from the front O2 sensor to adjust short term fuel trim. The computer is shooting for an air/fuel mixture of 14.7:1 that switches rich to lean at .5-5Hz. So yes a leak between the converters could change the LTFT. But I have seen a cracked header pipe on an '00 OB that set a P0420 cat efficency code. I remember the freeze frame fuel trim readings being abnormal, but no fuel trim codes. Lambda............That is an European car term, not an Aisan car term;)

That IAC has to be completely dissasembled to clean. There are small air passages inside that get pluged with carbon and need to be cleaned out. It is easy to take apart. But BEWARE they are not easy to put back together. If I could figure out how to post pics here I would take one apart and get some pics for you.

JaapH, The TSB you are talking about for your 96 says to replace the steering shaft u-joint with an improved part with built in dampner. The part is pretty expensive and looks identical to the old part. Don't see any dampner. Some have tried this fix without much luck. Problem may actually be internal steering rack problems. amphibo, Sounds like air in the power steering system. Lift front tires of the ground, slowly turn steering wheel lock to lock repetedly to bleed air.

8 days to install:confused: but labor was only $600? The total cost is about right for replacing a 2.2L and about 1k cheeper that replacing the 2.5L. And now you have a reliable engine.

This is a very common code to set on the Forester and Impreza's that had a MAF sensor recall. I haven't see it on a '95, but you could have a failing MAF that is giving out of spec readings. An air leak before the front cat usually causes the computer to set a P0420 cat efficancy below threshold code. Don't know how much affect and air leak between the front and rear cat would have on the fuel trim. I think the rear O2 sensor is there just to moniter the cat efficancy rather than control the fuel trim. Not positive of the logic used there, but wiht '95 being the first year of OBDII, I'd say that is probably the case.

No power to the rear wheels is most likly not a clutch pack problem. If transfer solenoid tests good then it probably isn't getting a signal from the TCM or somone has put a fuse in the fuse holder on the RH strut tower. If you think you want to replace the clutch pack, it can be done with the transmission in the car.

Call the dealership, tell them you need to check if there are any open recalls on your car. They will need the last 8 of the VIN. You may get it replaced for free. There was a recall on the front Air/Fuel Ratio sensors.

Yes you have bad head gaskets. Now that you have driven while it was overheating:-\ , then till it seized up, (wouldn't start till it cooled down:-\ ), continued to drive it and alow it to overheat agin and agin................ I wouldn't advise spending your money to fix that engine. You should figure on replacing the engine due to the extra bearing wear and probable scuffing of the pistons cause by extreme and repeted over heating. Hate to be the bearer of bad news......................But for future referance when the gages in your car say somthing is wrong, stop driving the car till you can determine what the problem is and fix it before more damage is done.

All '97-'99 DOHC 2.5L engines have solid lifters. All engines (not just Subaru) with solid lifters need valve adjustments. The valve clearance in a daily driven street car is not going to get looser, it will get tighter due mostly to waer on the face of the valve. The cam lobes and shims do not wear enough to change the clearance. If a cam starts to wear that much you will soon have a flat lobe. Never seen or heard of this in a Subaru engine. And as said before your not going to have valve streach in a car that is not seeing redline on a regulare basis for extended periods of time. In some of these 2.5L engines I think the valves are set on the tight side from the factory. In which case the valves will tighten up before 100,000 miles and cause misfire codes and if left long enough burn valves. I have run across this on engines with as little as just over 60k on them, although this is in extreme cases. It isn't uncomon for the valves to be in need of adjustment befor 105k though. Paying somone to do this adjustment with out the proper tool (a $250+ tool) would be out of the question. Would take way to long. With the tool, it shouldn't be much more that $400. I do this service for around $350 or less depending on how may new shims are needed. This is includeing new valve cover gaskets and washers.

The valves on these engine need to be adjusted. The Maintenance Manual says 105,000 miles. Tight valves WILL cause the problem you are describing. If they are left tight for too long they will burn.

I have an '84 Turbo wagon. Someone here is interested in the engine for their Brat. I was wanting to get an idea of what the going rate was for this engine and related parts. I was going to keep it to maybe some day put into my Hatch.........but I decided I don't have the room to store it. I sold it this afternoon. I'm not to good at the used part pricing thing yet, so I was just putting out some feelers. I am in Bozeman MT.

What could a guy figure on paying for an EA81 Turbo engine, wiring, ECU, and exhaust to do a transplant into a none turbo car? Any ideas?