WAWalker

Food for thought..............I have gotten alot of feedback about aftermarket cats not fixing the P0420 code on these cars. They will clean up the exhaust but will not always make the computer happy and you will still have the check engine light. Just somthing to think about.

Only took 3 or 4 years to figure that out after telling me his Subaru would put my Toyota to sham on the tail. Has only taken me 3 or 4 years to get a Subaru built to see if they are really as capable as Zap said they were. Hope I haven't waisted my time and money. No, I think it will be worth it for the cool factor if nothing eles, and I haven't gotten rid of the 4 Runner, and have no plans to.

Was the cleanest one I have ever seen. On the bright side, I do have a replacement. Got another '85 body, swaped drive train out of wreck one, installing a 3" lift in the prosess. Redrilled the hubs for 6 lug 14" Nissan wheels fitted with 27X9.50/14 Super Swamper SSR's. Still have alot of intierior work to do. I'm getting the doors off the wrecked car ready to put on the new one, (they were the only good sheet meatel left). New car is black so the lite bule doors don't go to well. Work in progress, but it should be worth it when it is done.

It was found in the ditch upside down:(

What is is made of? The main part looks like just a peice of flat strap.?

That is looking very good! Those front tow points could and should be tied directly into the mounting brackets that bolt to the frame. The reciever could be gusseted all the way to the mounting brackets, and you would have one good looking, strong, functional bumper.

Your talking about the ARB looking one, or the big smiley for $200-$400? I would be interseted in the ARB looking bumper if I could see the design for mounting and tow points first.

Well, first of all suspession travel is not measured by how far the tire on the RTI ramp is off the ground:rolleyes:. Your front tire maybe 3 feet off the ground but that dosen't mean you have 3 feet of front suspenssion travel, you are flexing the front and rear suspenssion in order to get that tire 3 feet off the ground. I would love to see a 36" travel shock on the front of a 4Runner though:grin:

As I said, I have seen a front AA bumper in the flesh. The mounting points have a very small surface area with no bracing or gussets to distriubute the load, that reciever is welded to a very small surfce area whith no bracing or gussets to distribute load........... And if I'm not mistaken that D-ring is butt welded to the tube, and has no solid conection to the frame of the vehical. What have you got there, 3 Sq Inches, if that, for load distriubution at any given attachment point. That better be one HEAVY wall peice of tubing. Hey, it looks cool, but dangerous. A few well placed gussets would make a huge difference.

Well, I've seen an AA front bumper in the flesh, and my money is on the D-rings and mounting brackets tearing out is a big hurry. I guess a good yank or two with the rig buried in mud or snow will tell.................I just wouldn't want to be standing anywere close when the testing begins. Nore would I want to be on the road behine this bumper with any kind of trailer hooked to it. Just MWO, looks dangerous.

Your not really going to tow anything with that bumper, right? Please say no! Looks like you've already ripped one D-ring off.

Only '97-'99 DOHC 2.5L engines use shims for valve adjustment. The '97 on 2.2L and 2.5L SOHC engines have screw type adjusters on the rocker arms. Adjusting valves on these engines is much easier. It is worth doing. Valves tighten up after time, espesially exhaust valves. Tight exhaust valves=burnt valves if adjustment is not done. Burnt valves=more $$$ than the valve adjustment would have cost. Alot of Dealers don't sell valve adjustments because it is too much like work, and in the case of our local dealer, they couldn't figure out how to use the special tool.

They do, to self tapping screws into the bumper cover. This is the factory recomended method.

It can be done in car. But not without a $250some dollar special tool. I do the valve adjustment service for $350ish, includes new valve cover gaskets. Price of new shims extra. Shims are about $7 each.

Cam sensors on early Legacy's aren't a common problem. More likely the coolant temp sensor.

Check engine light on? Pulling codes is the place to start.

Just measure the OD of the pipe, buy a peice of hose. If your working on a Subaru in its' stock form, a peice of straight hose isn't going to work to replace the fuel filler hose.

Yes that is your no start after and hot soak problem. There was a recent thread with a pic of the Cam sensor location.

Would be fair to say that you most likely won't see them lined up agin. As stated the math hasn't been done to awnser that question, and as far as I know nobody has taking the time the crank the engine over long enough to find out.

Is your check engine light on? Don't have a difinative answer on the exhaust.

You should try it before you knock it. Although if your affraid of damaging your self or your rig, and don't like the feeling of large amounts of adrenalin in your blood stream you should stick with the mud.

Fuel pump is either going bad, or there is restriction in the fuel lines or pick up screen in the tank, putting exessive load on the fuel pump. Stock radio? Otherwise the alternator probably can't handle the draw of an after market stereo system.

Fairly common on these cars.

Purge contorl solenoid.

In fact it did work for you. OK, I just read the Chilton manual. Step 2. Position the No. 1 Piston to TDC of its compression stroke. Step 5. Align the camshaft sprockets so each sprocket notch aligns with the cam cover notches. Align the crankshaft sprocket top tooth notch, located at the rear of the tooth, with the notch on the crank angle sensor boss. So step 5 is the proper proceedure for lining up the timing marks. Step 2 however is busy work. Good discussion is always welcome.