WAWalker

Different cars, all 1999 MY.

You have to take a BFH to the inside of the fender the way it is to keep the springs from hitting. To move the strut tops over you would have to do a lot more hammering, pluse grinding and modification to the spacer. Making new control arms wouldn't be within the budget of 99.9% of Subaru wheelers. Extending existing control arms could cause safty issues, and more alingment problems. Lowering the engine crossmember would take two peices of flat strap with holes drilled in them. Very simple mod, low cost, and sounds like it should work.

Sounds like a very very good idea.

Schucks, Checker, Keregan (sp?) are all the same and all sell junk alternators and starters. Buyer beware. Your starting problem could be worn starter contacts.

Fairly common problem. I've replaced 4 or 5 of them.

If you have already replaced the A/F sensor, and still get code P0130, you have a bad electical connection in wiring between ECM and A/F sensor. Or you have an exhaust leak upstream from A/F sensor. If you can't find the problem, give me a call, 586-2231. I've got a Select Monitor, can look at A/F sensor readings.

If the ECM detects a problem and turns the check engine light on the code is stored in memory. If the problem goes away (intermittent) the ECM will turn the light off after awhile, but the code will be in the memory till it is cleared with a scan tool or the battery is disconected. You need a scan tool or OBDII interface software and cables for a computer in order to pull codes.

No MAF sensor on this car. 2000- Legacy uses a speed density system. These cars are apperently not storing any codes when this happens? Truth is whom ever diagnoises it will have to be able to duplicate the problem. That is the first step.

From opening post. "....my cars ecu is saying that cylinders two n three are misfiring..." Really all I know for sure at this point is that the shotgun diagnostics failed. More info would be a good thing. Compression reading from affected cylinders? For the price of two ignition coils I'm betting you could get a nice compression gage. Have you checked all vacuum lines checked for vacuum leaks around intake? How many miles on engine? Service history of engine?, other than new plugs and coils. Performance mods? The WRX tends to encourage spirited driving. Do you run it hard, or drive it like an old lady?

For one there was no mention of code P0341...................But then again there hasn't been a whole lot of info giving:rolleyes:

OK, it is a dead miss at idle up to 3000 RPM. HOW MANY MILES ON ENGINE? Probably exhaust valves.

How many miles on the engine? Is it a dead miss? Can you feel it? Or is it setting the misfire codes with no noticable miss? More info is better.

Onboard air so you can air down on the trail and air up for the ride home. Wheel it hard till you break it. Then you'll know what needs to be modified. Experiance is the best teacher. Quit spending your money and ENJOY IT!

You have mail:)

Me thinks that trying to figure % of cars that will have HG problems is BS. In a small town with a LOT of Subarus I have seen them go at ~90k to ~180k. And still see a lot for sale with well under 100k on them. Subaru didn't stop production of that engine after 4 years because it was a good design. I would put my money on having to replace HG's on all of them. Dosn't make them bad cars. If you buy them right, and have to replace HG's, you still have a good car with a lot of miles left in it. And the payments and insurance on a new car will add up to the cost of a HG replacement in what, 2.5-3 months.

I have heard that the problem has not been fixed, and they have stopped doing any newer than 01 under warranty, after the normal warranty runs out that is. Was also told there is a class action lawsuit against Subaru over the head gasket problem. Disclaimer: THIS IS JUST WHAT I WAS TOLD. I HAVE NOT CONFIRMED ANY OF IT AS FACT.

Sorry about the little hijack there. If you order the KYB's or any other shock from a parts house you are going to get a stock length shock and will still have the same setup you have now. Yes, you can get a longer one and git rid of the extension that came with your lift. But you would probably have to talk to someone at KYB and tell them how long and what kind of mounts you need and have them give you the correct part #. That is what I had to do to get other than stock replacement Procomp shocks for my 4 Runner when I first lifted it. A little more on the hijack.......................KYB OE shocks and struts are made to the (Subaru in this case) manufactueres specs. I know at least with Subaru struts on New gen. models some are just hydrolic and some are gas. Were as with the KYB aftermarket replacments you have, 1) GR2's which are all low pressure gas shocks and struts, 2) Gas-A-Just which are all high pressure, 3) AGX which are adjustable. So depending on what a car hadon it from the factory, gas or hydo, you may or may not be getting the same quality ride as OE shocks or struts, but because KYB is the OEM I think you are getting the same quality part. Unless you are going to be using your EA81 for a heavy hauler, I would recommend the GR2 low pressure shock. The high pressure Gas-A-Just shocks make full size rigs ride rough. If you go the way of putting EA82 rear coil overs in you would probably want to do away with you torsion bar. Adding the spring rate of the coils to the spring rate of a torsion bar is going to make for one stiff, rough ride.

KYB is the OEM for Subaru.

Wasn't my idea. A friend in Seattle told me about it. I asked him why he hasn't made up a bunch of kits and marketed them. He said most people want to go the cheap and easy route. He is right. But when I charge a customer for a repair I want it to last, so I built me a jig and this is the method I use.

Dosen't take much to hold the crank pully for proper torque. A $35 tool. I torque the crank bolt to 110 ftlb. which is well over spec, but seems to be the accepted practice.

Any way you look at this you got took by Dealer #1, as stated before you could have gotten a CCR rebuilt engine installed for that price. Need to clairify and document what Dealer #2 is saying was installed wrong. Which is probably not possible if they have already dissasembled. Oil starvation to cams is not unheard of. I havn't seen it personaly but I have heard of it happening causeing the problem that you discribed. Best of luck to you. I had a customer who had head gaskets done at the dealer (under warranty on a used car purcase) and to save money they installed the old cam seals. Cam seal poped out going down the freeway, by the time the oil light came on it was to late. I replaced that engine with a good used one. Told dealer what caused the engine failure, dealer told customer they would give him $500 in store credit for his troubles.

Seems that this problem stems from improper crank bolt torque when timing belt is replaced. Depending on damage done, it is usually fixable. If key way isn't completly gone and will still hold a key, this is my fix. Most prefer to throw new parts on, locktite, and over torque the crank bolt. Then hope for the best. Because the crank pully does not fit all the way onto the crank shaft snout, when it loosens it wobbles and causes wear not only to the inside of the pully but also the crank shaft. There for a new pully is not a tight fit on the worn crank shaft and dosen't nessasarly spin true and can cause everything to loosen up again for a second failure and more damage. The key way damage is a resault of backlash when the the crank bolt is not holding the timing belt sproket tightly in place. By connecting the crank pully and timing belt sproket together with dowel pins you keep the crank pully center and spinning true, and basicly have the entire crank shaft snout supporting the crank pully, rather than the very tip. Here is an example of a failed "locktite & and over torqued crank bolt" fix. After that "fix" faild the next person who tried to take it apart broke the over torqued crank bolt off in the end of the crank shaft. Which is too bad because I think I could save this one but the broken bolt is going to be a challange. Not the first broken 2.2L crank bolt I have seen but will be my first attempt at removing one.

Should work.

Not to be argumentative but.................................The "hot air theroy" is true. The fact is that cold air is more dense that hot air. There for with cooler air you get more air in the cylinder, and with proper addition of fuel, and ajustment of ignition, you can make more horsepower. The removale of a restrictive stock air cleaner, housing, and induction tube, to be replaced with a less restrictive and better flowing system does nothing to prove horsepower gained or lost due to air temp, but says a lot for replacing stock intake parts with ones engineered to make more power. And Subaru didn't do it because of the almighty $, less cost to build car more money in their pocket. It just a viscous circle now isn't it.

WOW! What kind of super wazoo struts are you looking at on ebay? Genuine Subaru part wholesales for $89.96 each. $120 list.