WAWalker

Yes, I make those her at the shop. When this happens to a customers car I take no chances when putting it back together. The woodruff keys job is only to properly align the timing belt drive sprocket on the crankshaft to ensure proper cam timing. It is not intended to carry any load. The force of the crank bolt, when installed and properly torqued, clamping the pully and timing belt drive sproket to the crankshaft is what takes the load. This problem occures after the crank bolt has been removed and not properly torqued after reinstallation. Once there is any damage to the end of the crank shaft were the front pully rides, a new pully is not going to fit tight and there will be imbalance when the engine is running. This imbalance can and most offten will cause another failure. The dowel pins between the timing belt sprocket and front pully eliminates this imbalance, as the timing belt sprocket fits fully over the crank shaft were there is no wear, and the dowel pins support and center the pully. Getting the broken bolt out of the crank shaft is not an easy task but, on an EJ22 Turbo, would be well worth the work.

Probably won't hold. If the end of the crank is worn from the pully wobble the new used one will not be centered and will not spin true and will cause another failure. Best thing to do is to get broken bolt out of crank shaft and install one of these.

So tell us, what kind of wallet killer EJ Subaru have you been driving and what are the problems you have been having?

Was wondering if it was supperceded. I figured they would only have changed the last two or three numbers in the PN. I figured wrong. So now we have the TRUTH. The only difference is inner and outer. Easly determined by looking at the back side of the sproket.

International Automotive Technicians Network.

That is the only difference that can be seen at this point. One would need to have both of the outer sprokets to compair to see if there is any differance in the off set of the teeth when installed on the crank shaft. I think we are getting somewhere.

There is to much there to be able to look at it all on one screen, makes it confusing. 1990-1994 is right there in blue and white.

A flashing CEL indicates a Class A Misfire. Show me one proven case were a bad O2 sensor caused a Class A Misfire. In your mind. Has been proved differently in many real work situations. Truer words have never been spoken. Yes, many of the old timers are getting out of the business. Getting harder to keep up and be able to efficiently diagnose and repair cars. I knew that you are a engineer. I also know that nobody is perfect, myself for sure. Nothing aginst you, but I also know for a fact that even the people writing TSB's for SOA aren't always right the first time, and I would assume they have some back ground in engineering also. I like to learn and will be learning till the day I die. Makes me better at what I do. With your resume you should be able to become a member of IATN. $20 a month and you can search the fix data base. I think you would find it a very good resource.

What is the code that yours is throwing?

PATTERN FAILURES are a very real thing. Bad converters have been found to be the biggest cause of the P0420 code on these cars by many PROFESSIONAL automotive tech for all over the country. I would suggest testing the O2 sensors before replacing the cats, but DIYers and even a lot of "professionals" don't have the ability to check the front sensor. It is an Air Fuel Ratio sensor and can not be check the same way as an O2 sensor. So a lot of A/F sensor get replaced with out knowing if they are good or bad, it is just the cheapest first step. Personally I do test the sensors, since I have the Select Monitor I am able to do that. Yes there was a recall on a lot of the A/F sensors, not because they were causeing a P0420 code to set. Most of what is on this board is people stating WHAT THEY THINK, very little experiance to back any of it up. Your feathers should be plenty ruffled.

It shows 3 part #'s. All the inner most are the same. There are 2 different outter most sprockets. PN 13023AA010 is the inner sprocket for 1985-1994 PN 13018AA000 is the outer sprocket for 1985-1987 PN 13021AA001 is the outer sprocket for 1987-1994 According to that info. This also explains why you don't se to many outer sprockets with the dowel pins. They were only used in 85, 86, and some 87's according to the picuters.

Hate to say but the Auto Zone guy was correct. To FIX the problem the cats will need to be replaced. Your guys method of putting a spacer between the rear O2 sensor and cat will keep the CEL out (the sensor itself is probably fine) but is only masking the problem. It is not FIXING the problem. But if all you want is the CEL to stay off then it will work. NOT NESSASARALY LEGAL, but will work. The rear O2 sensor is there to monitor the catalist efficency. When not in the exhaust stream it can not read the actual O2 levels of the after cat exhaust so the computer will think everything is fine. Side note: The CEL was not put in cars buy the manufature to get you to go to their dealer every time it comes on. The fedral government told them they had to put it there. OBD is there primairaly to monitor emissions.

Correct. You have to buy the whole arm.

Have you owned or even driven a Legacy?

10.3

Exactly! And there is a picture to prove it. Kind of fussy, but the difference is obvious.

I was kind of wondering after my post if this would be the case. Dosen't surprise me at all. The 86 FSM is the one that I quoted. Again, not surprised. So in order to know the REAL truth..........you would need to read each FSM from '85-'94 and break this info down buy year and probably Carb. vs Injected. Also, I'm not sure that all EA82 front sprockets had dowel pins in them from the factory. The ones that I have seen, the dowel pin was actually a small roll pin. So the hole for this pin is smaller than the other holes that you see on the sprocket. So it would be easy to determine even if the pin is missing. And if they all have this all EA82 crank pully will have a small hole in the mating surface to the sproket. I make it a point not to keep a lot of spare EA82 parts lying around so I can't look or post any pics, but as memory serves, not all EA82 crank pullys have this hole. If they do please correct me.

Me thinks you should read it again before rolling your eyes.

Actually if you read the FSM.............#2 sprocket is the sprocket that drives the timing belt for the bank with #2 cyl (left bank). This is the REAR MOST sprocket. And I quote from the FSM......"Sprocket No. 2 can be identified by the absence of dowel pin."

Well the FSM does over complicate it. Basicly you: Then start the engine, spray in the cleaner of your choice, and opperate the throttle buy hand to keep the engine from dieing. Simple. That is a can of WD40, which would probably work. But like I said, I use Sea Foam Deep Creep. Carb and brake cleaner have a tendency to melt plastic so I don't recommend, as the air doors inside the IAC are plastic.

Carb cleaner is probably not the best choice. I personally use SeaFoam Deep Creep that comes in an aerosol can. Down the throat of what? The IAC or the throttle body. If you are cleaning the throttle body then I can understand why you have had little luck. I have heard of others cleaning the throttle body and it being messed up after that. But since the throttle body isn't the problem when it comes to Idle Control Malfunctions, there is NOT any reason to try and clean it. I know that the general consensus on this board is to NEVER clean the IAC. But since the proceedure to do it is right there in the Factory Service Manual, and it in fact works (100% of the time for me) I see no reason not to.

I have lost count of the ones that I have cleaned. I have NEVER had to replace one. How are you cleaning them and what are you cleaning them with?

Have you rechecked the cam timing to make sure it is not a tooth off? Pugre control solenoids are a very common failure.

Clean the IAC. Most likely it is full of carbon and hanging up.

Yes he would.