WAWalker

That is strange! I'm sure I have copied an pasted info like that before and it worked. Maybe this is some new method to keep people from pirating info:confused: It is not even Subaru info each time. Anywho, hope you got what you needed. Buy the way. If you go to http://www.alldatadiy.com/ you can get the info for your MY for $24.95 for 1 year, then $14.95 to renew. Pretty cheap.

Car Quest auto parts stores now carry KYB struts and shocks. They are even black like the OE ones so they don't stick out like the silver GR2's. If that matters. I perfer the black myself.

This is the diagnostic connector used. It is located uder the dash to the right of the steering colum. There will be two jumper wires taped to the harness of this connector. These are ground wires. There are terminals in this connector with power to them. Do not plug the jumper into the wrong terminal. This is the proceedure. Disreguard the last footnote! Were it tells you to "connect diagnosis switch to ON", connect jumper to terminal #6. I copyed the proceedure from a '95 manual, it says terminal #5. Mitchell says terminal #6 for a '97. Disclaimer: I have found mistakes in all service manuals. Even FSM's. Test for power at the terminals of the diagnostic connector with key on before plugging in any jumpers.

No that is not the proper method of pulling TCU codes on a '97. Will dig up the info and get back.

Ok, this car is fixed. Pulled both valve covers so I could see when the valves were closeing. (useing a leak down tester is not real acurate) I noticed right away that the lifters on the effected cylinders were pumped up all the way and the others were not. Pulled both rocker arm assemblies to get a good look at the cams. Two totaly different cams! One was a solid rocker cam, and the other was a roller rocker cam. The bank with the solid rocker cam was fine (w/ roller/hydro lifter rocker arm assembly). The bank with low compression had a '97-'98 roller/solid lifter cam, near as I can figure. (w/ roller/hydro lifter rocker arm assembly). Sourced a set of matching '95 cams and it runs great.

The fuel managment system on your '97 is MAF based were as the '01 is a speed/density based system. So no, it will not work. EDIT Maybe it could. But it will not be plug and play like the 2.5L DOHC to 2.2L swap. You could use your existing MAF sensor and wiring. You would have to swap ECT sensors, and add a sender for the temp gauge to the '01 engine. Swap knock sensors. But then you are left with different IAC, TPS, and fuel injectors. Then the little annoying things like EGR and EVAP emissions items that may or may not effect drivability to much but can leave you with a CEL illuminated all the time.

The loose connections will be cracked solder joints on the circiut board inside the control panel. Remove cup holder. Remove trim around shifter. Remove ash tray to access two screws in trim around radio. Dissconect Hot/Cold air door control cable under passanger side of dash. Remove 4 screws from heater control panel.

Maybe. PN 22663AA010 Are there any codes stored in the TCU?

If it is P0400- EGR Flow Malfunction............replace the inline filter in the vaccum line going to the MAP sensor. This should not have an effect on the way the transmission shifts. The only other EGR codes are P0403- EGR Circuit Malfunction and P1421- EGR Circuit high input. Both having to do with a bad EGR control solenoid, ECM, or the wiring between the two. This should not have an effect on the way the transmission shifts either.

If you had this overheating problem before the work was done..........Why was the overheating problem diagnoised before replacing the t-belt, w/p, and t-stat? Sounds like the typical symptomes of blown head gaskets.

A steady blinking Check Engine Ligh means there are no codes stored in the memory.

Just FYI, the tool used in that write up has been superceded. I got the new tool through my local dealership a few years ago, it is actually for the WRX, but with a small modification works on the 2.5 DOHC. It is pricy, but well worth the investment if you work on Subarus every day, porbably not worth it for the DIYselfer. With a good shim selection and this tool it takes me 3-4 hours to do a valve adjustment depending on how many actually need adjusted. So without the proper tool and shims on hand, as said before this would probably be a day or two job if not more, depending on if your dealer has the shims you need in stock.

Believe it or not valve adjustment changes after torquing the cylinder heads. And even some machine shop can't, won't, or don't set vlave lash on these heads after working on them. Might want to double check.

Ok, 2000 Outback 2.5L SOHC. (same engine as in question) Very neglected car w/ 183310 miles on original engine. Came in with dead miss on cyl#4. Performed 105k service (Timing belt & vlave adjustment, which had never been done). All exhasut vlaves were tight, some with no clearance. Set valve lash, performed compression test.....................valve cover gaskets leaking oil into spark plug tubes. Compression readings- 1/195 2/190 3/195 4/200 Not what I would have guessed to see from a dry compression test on a 183310 mile engine that has been poorly maintained all its life. But it wasn't a dry test it was a wet test. A little more oil and you can bet the readings on at leat one cylinder would have been over 200. When performing a wet test less than .5oz. of oil is added to the cylinder. A teaspoon or two at the most. This is a small amount of oil and will not end up in the compression gage, but will raise the compression #'s noticably in an engine with good vavles and rings. If I wanted to spend more time looking I could find more documentaion of these engines that I have preformed tune-ups on that had oil in the spark plug tubes when I pulled the plugs, and had 200+ compression readings. P.S. #4 dead misfire ended up being a bad fuel injector. They were lucky it wasn't a burnt valve.

You got it. Hydro lifter buy the way. Exellent! That is what I needed. I tend to get to a point with these things were I can't think straight anymore. I knew there had to be away to confirm or deny my suppision without doing a tear down. Thanks! This will be my next step.

Only cam specs I can find is lobe hight and they are different. But want to see the differnce in the profile. I've got one that is making me pull my hair out. Misfiring at idle. Not a dead miss. Codes for misfire on #1 & #3. Compression: 1/130 2/180 3/145 4/185 Leak down: 1/6% 2/8% 3/6% 4/8% Cam timing right........................ Cam timing is dead on. Genuine Subaru timing belt. Cam sprokets have been replaced. Crank sproket and key way are good. This is a "rebuilt" 2.2L transplanted in place of the 2.5L in a '97 OB. I am the 4th or 5th one to try and nail down this mis. Fun Fun Fun. I'm thinking mis matched cams, but am not ready to pull both cams. Would rather just pull one and figure out how to identify it, to determine if it belongs in a '95 2.2L engine. Any thoughts?

Were the valve cover gaskets leaking oil into the spark plug tubes? If so when you pull the spark plugs that oil is running into the cylinder.

Does anyone have any 90-94 and 95-96 cam shafts laying around that they could take pics of side buy side? I need to see the differance between the solid cam and roller cam. You can e-mail pics to WWalker2615@aol.com. Thanks.

If it you can feel the misfire while the engine is idling, but seems to run good off idle, you probably have tight vavles. Did you check valve clearance after reassembing the engine?

Well I thought I had two spare Hatch tanks, turns out I had a tank from a Wagon and a Hatch. The Hatchback tank is shorter front to back, so I am sure it would not bolt up in a Wagon.

Thank's!

Will a '85 Hatchback fuel tank fit in a '84 GL Wagon?

Sorry, didn't mean to piss in your Cheerios, was just asking a question. Buy the way, Subarus have an electric fuel pump, so when your battery dies........................well I guess you could always strap the fuel tank to the roof an gravity feed your carb. I'll go away now.

Have you had experiance with carb vs injection for off roading? Or distributors in wet off road conditions. Or just the reliability of the EJ engine managment system in general?

One question.................Why take a perfectly good fuel injected/DIS, engine and go backwards by converting to carburation and distributer? Makes no sence to me. I know the aircraft guys did the carburation thing before they figured out how to make the injection work at altitude, but I take it this build is not getting wings. And the distributer?