WAWalker

What is the code that is being set?

I've seen this before. The Dealer here stocks a Y-pipe, so I know they've seen it too.

The second valve cover you describe is not a 2.2L. That would be a 2.5L DOHC, interference, yes. Rocker arms, no. There are actually 3 variations of the 2.2L valve train but I don't believe any are interference engines.

You have to have somthing to STOP the piston before TDC or your two marks are going to be in the same place. You can by this tool. It is not a "shade tree" method. Also I said twice, to CAREFULLY turn the engine over. If your not competent enough to CAREFULLY performe this task buy all means don't. You could put a hole in the top of your piston!

You need a tool that screws into the #1 spark plug hole that will stop the piston as you carefully turn the engine over by hand. I have made this tool for small block chevy engines. I hollowed out a spark plug, taped the inside, threaded a bolt with jamb nut through. You set the depth of this bolt to stop the piston before TDC, mark the flywheel were the pointer is on the bell housing. Carfully turn the engine backwards till the piston contacts the bolt, mark the flywheel at bell housing mark. Measure the distance between these marks and divide by two, that gives you true TDC.

Most of the time these 2.5L DOHC head gaskets won't leak untill the engine is good and hot. Shops that are not familair with Subarus bad head gasket symtoms, have a hard time diagnoising the problem, because conventinal methods don't usaully work, and the engine needs to be hot to nail down the problem. So it is very possible that with the T-stat out the engine never gets hot enough for the head gasket to leak. Sooner or later is will probably degade to the point were this will no longer get you by. Plan on repairing it.

ALL Legacy's from 1990-1999 have an air bleed screw on the radiator. The 2.2L dosen't have the head gasket problem that the 2.5L does. The 2.2L was in production for 9 years, the 2.5L for 3:rolleyes:. There were changes made to the DOHC produced in '96, and they either aren't as troublesome or there is just less of them out there, so I'm not counting '96. It's pretty obvious that somone in charge at SOA knew somthing about the 2.5L DOHC engine problems, and not just the cooling system problem there were other problems. They stoped production of them for one reason or another. The currant 2.5L SOHC has been in production longer and they had a headgasket leak from the get go. The oil in the coolant recovery tank probably didn't show up after the engine overheated. It most likly developed over time. This is the first sign of failing head gaskets. The recovery tank can get very nasty before there is an overheating problem.

Order up some Legacy rear wheel bearings. You will surely need them after putting swampers on it.

ALL Subaru Legacy radiators have a bleeder plug in them. Remove the plug, fill, replace plug, bring to operating temp. so T-stat opens, let cool, top off. Very simple. ALL Subaru Legacy's circulate water through the heater core all the time. They do NOT have a water control valve.

Spray some WD-40 on them.

Sitting for 6-8 years in those conditions w/o a carb............at the very least the apex seals are toast. For air flow to the radiator in that position you could put an air intake in the front left corner of the hood or the left fender.

Any reputable tire shop should be able to do it for you.

Changing the brake fluid is recommended every 30,000 mile as part of your scheduled mainttenance. It should be done because brake fluid absorbes water. Water can cause rust an corrosion. Enough water in the brake fluid can boil during braking causing brake fade. Subarus recommended procedure for this is to have one person open the bleeder screw, have an assitant depress the brake pedal, first guy closes the bleed screw, assitant releases pedal, repeat untill fuild comes out clean. This is the abbreviated version, but you get the idea. So if the dealer doesn't want to pay two techs to properly flush the brake system, or they haven't heard of a vacuum bleeder, then they may very well just be sucking fluid from the reservoir and refilling. If so.........you are getting ripped off, yes.

Zapar......................Haven't got an answer about your posted age?

Have an alingment, then make sure to rotate your tires every 6500 miles. You didn't say what year of Subaru, but on the 00 and newer Outbacks the rear tires will start cupping if not rotated. Then when they are rotated to the front the cupping will cause steering wheel shake at highway speeds.

There was a recall on MAF sensors. They would flag that code.

What Year model? '99-'00 Forester / Impreza? '99 Legacy?

Then go to your local parts store and buy a bulb. Bulb Back - 1997-99 outback sedan, sus96-99 $19.95 $14.96 Probably not going to be much cheaper anywere eles.

Careful judding something by its color. Fog lamp assy Right - 1995 all, 1996 w/o outback95-96 $209.27 $156.95 If it is round then it is not a '95 fog lamp. It would be an Outback fog lamp. Fog lamp assy Right - 1997-99 outback sedan, sus96-97 $151.10 $113.33

Buy driving light do you mean fog light, or headlight. There are no aftermarket parts for either. So you can go with new from the dealer. Used. Or engineer somthing eles in there.

Yes the tires are always the first thing to check when this problem occures. But over inflating a dry rotted tire is NOT a fix!

I've installed the ARI's from Subaru dealer, had 1 fail. I now buy the ARI's from Napa, 15 at a time, for a very good price, have only had one of these fail. I am talking about '90- Legacy axles. Now as far as the '85-94 Leone/Loyale ARI axles from Napa, I have got a few bad ones. The funny thing is they were all NEW outer CV joints on them, but they were noisy right out of the box.

Considering that there was a recall on the Air/Fuel ratio sensor in 2000.......................wouldn't trust that dealer with any work you have to pay for. What took 10 days should have took 10 minutes, to log on and punch the VIN into the computer:-\

OEM axles are ARI remans. The same axle that you can get at Napa for half the price. If you buy from the dealer you only get a 1 year warranty. Napa gives you a lifetime warranty. The last time I checked you couldn't get a NEW OEM axle. If you could you wouldn't want to pay the price anyway.

Step up, spend the money, replace the oil pump...............................or you can just spend the cost of the oil pump changing your oil every 200 miles:rolleyes: