rdweninger

Definitely change your ATF. I believe it holds about 7 quarts. Maybe 3 - 4 quarts will drain out. I changed mine twice in a 2 week period. Figured that 75% was now 'new' fluid. The transmission shifts much better now. You will also have a front differential dipstick. That will take 80w/90 or 75w/90 gear oil. I believe the dipstick will have the 1.2 liter capacity stamped on it. Definitely change the diff oil. This is cheap insurance.

Gear Oil ? Lake? Make sure your transmission and front diff have the correct levels. Hopefully, you drained and replaced with new gear oil. Shouldn't have to break in a new clutch. The flywheel is new... so the machine marks help 'grab' the clutch disc. Most importantly, don't burn the clutch. Should last 200,000 if you drive right. Time to change your avatar ! Nice job on the swap.

Buy it !!! They don't make 'em anymore.

So... I had a 'dead' clock (actually trip computer) in my '85 EA82. Turns out that the solder joints were all good. The problem was the two microbulbs that are used for backlighting were shot. I checked the Subaru dealer, $12.99 each, but not available. I had to meet a minimum order quantity.... so I've got plenty of these bulbs if anyone needs them. You will have to remove the old bulb from the original socket. Then put the new bulb into the socket and snip the wire leads to the correct length. I'll be away from the computer for the next few days... but will check the thread.

+ 1. Sometimes, it takes me 2-3 days to place my order. Once the parts are in your shopping cart, they will still be there the next time you log in. I spent an hour measuring the v-belts on my Soobs. EA82 with alt only, EA82 with alt and PS, EA 82 MPFI with PS and AC, 2 EA 81's. Once I had the outside circumference, I could order the belts that had the measurements in their description. I just found out... if you have the items shipped to your workplace or business, FedX applies the commercial rate which is cheaper. Not an option for me... but a good FYI.

In my first experience with RA, I got hosed on shipping. (from 4 different locations). Like $60. What I do now, is look for the truck icon and a note at the bottom of the description that says the item you are ordering will ship from the same location as items already in your shopping cart. Also, when I need something, I order other parts that I know I will need in the future - Belts, cap/rotor, wires, bearings, seals, boots, brake pads/shoes, ball joints, tie rod ends, caliper and wheel cylinder rebuild kits... etc. However, I am ordering for 5 Subaru's. So I'm always looking to buy parts for these Soob's that keep following me home. Anyone know where I can get a barrel of Delo 15w-40 ??? ha, ha... not funny! RonBroke.

Felpro 9392 PT - Ebay or RockAuto. I also use the glass for resurfacing the heads. I called a glass shop and asked what they had for scrap. Found a 1/2" piece 16" x 20". I use spray contact cement... works great. And I lay 2 pieces of sand paper side by side so my sanding surface is approx 11 x 16. Doesn't hurt to resurface the intake and exhaust if you have time. At least clean them up with the flat glass/sandpaper.

on the "beater" subject. About a year ago, just after I had started my new job in Tillamook, OR. I got pulled over by a police officer as I had just left my workplace. I'm sure he had never seen my '85 GL Wagon in town with primer spots all over it(hey... I'm ready to paint). He comes to my window and asks "do you know why I pulled you over?" I quickly responded... "because I'm driving a beater!". I'm sure this caught him offguard, because I saw him smile. Maybe he thought I had a case of 'racial profiling'... Ha! He let me go with a warning... I was not wearing my seatbelt. Next time you get pulled over in your 'classic' Subaru.... you're welcome to use my line.

Did you order your brake shoes and spring/clip replacements yet? I'm heading back to rockauto and will use an '89 GL as my vehicle. I just read that using an '85 Wagon (EA82) will also give you part #'s for EA81 Brats and Hatchies. That same brake situation happened to me a year ago on my other '85 FWD Wagon. Bad rumbling, grinding and a 'pop' every now and then. Opened it up and what was left of the springs and clips just fell out. I bought the parts from Napa because I need them right away. I should have taken pictures and sent them to the mechanic who had the car for 4 months and test drove the heck out of it.

Was searching for rear brakes and saw the awesome photo of what they are NOT supposed to look like. So I'm guessing this thread topic should now be titled "Rear Brake Job". I have not disassembled the brakes yet, but I'm looking at brake parts on rockauto... there's a bunch of #'s for the size... some in inches... some in mm. Does anyone know the size of the rear brake shoes. OP has 4wd... as do I. Does FWD or 4WD have different sizes? I also want to rebuild the wheel cylinders... and rockauto lists the bore as 5/8" or 3/4" or 1". Anyone know the wheel cylinder bore? And of course, the spring/clip set. 4wd shows more/different springs...is that correct? OntheRun... I don't mean to hijack the thread... maybe just co-pilot ?

There should be no resistance on the fuseable link wires... so the ohms would be 0 (zero). Set your meter to ohms... Then touch one lead to one end of the fuseable link wire... then touch the other lead to the other end of the fuseable link wire. If the fuseable link wire is good... there should be no resistance... ie... the wire has continuity. Same reading you would get if you touch the two leads of the multimeter together. This is a good way to check ALL your fuses also. A good fuse reads 0 ohms. You don't even have to take the fuse out of the fusebox. If you look closely, you will see 2 bare metal spots on the end of the fuse where you will put your multimeter leads.

I'll take some pics of the dipstick this evening when I get home. Hopefully, it will still be daylight. This is a rare Subaru Wagon. 1985 EA82 3AT FWD MPFI. Yes... that's Multiport Fuel Injection. I'm thinking of just mixing a 50/50 mixture of Dexron and 80w/90... ha ! Just kidding. But seriously... I want to run the correct lubricant. I75eya.... your post was most definite on the Dexron (and I appreciate that). Can you tell me why you are so positive? Funny how something so simple becomes so confusing... huh?

okay then... I75eya says the front diff on my 3AT FWD takes Dexron... then others say it takes 80w/90. So I am still confused. I put a call into the Subaru dealer... but no call back yet. I did read the 89 FSM and there seems to be no indication that the FWD takes Dexron in the front diff. But remember, my front diff dipstick has what appears to be a factory sticker that says Dexron. The dipstick looks exactly like the example in the 89 FSM with the 1.2 liter stamped as the fill level. Does anyone have an 85 FSM so we can verify this? GD... I thought you said you had an 85 FSM ? Any help would be appreciated.

The cam tower o-ring that is metal reinforced is inside the cam tower. I believe the OP is talking about the outer cam shaft seal after you pull the sprocket. There is also an o-ring there which should be replaced.

I use a multimeter. I can check resistance (ohms), DC volts and AC volts. They are very reasonable in price. Harbor Freight sells them for maybe $9. Most auto shops also sell them. You MUST own one if you work on cars... otherwise, you're just guessing. Wish I was closer... I could help you out.

That loud pop you heard (beings it was not mechanical) sounds like one of your fuseable links. Check it out, first. Ohm the wires. The black box by your driver side fender well. Although, "sounds like" is a long way from Tillamook. Hope this helps.

hey Cranky... on the seals... use oil around the edges to 'lube' them prior to installation. Please note that there is also an large o-ring to replace with the front cam seal. You'll find it... keep looking. Lightly tap... don't "Pound them back in place" Some people (like me) use the supplied waterpump gasket with a thin layer of RTV on both sides. I think it helps seal any small pits and irregularities on the block. I have never had a problem. The bearings in the waterpump go before the flange seal fails. Lots of info on this forum about cheap brands of waterpumps. I have read that GD uses no gasket and an anaerobic sealant (Loctite 515, I believe).

From everything I have read, and from I75eya's post, if your EA82 car has the 3AT and is front wheel drive only.... the Front Diff (transaxle) gets Dexron II. If your EA82 car is 5MT and 4wd, the transmission and front transaxle (diff) share the same fluid and it is 80w/90. If your EA82 car is 3AT and 4wd (Anyone ever seen one???), then the 3AT gets Dexron and the Front Diff gets 80w/90. Numbchux... Your's is the 4EAT and your car 4wd. So, yes, you would use 80w/90 in the front diff. Is there a sticker on your front diff dipstick and is it legible?

Thank you I75eya for the clarification. I just wanted to be sure the previous owner (teenage boy) didn't swap dipsticks from a different vehicle or put a sticker on there. In my short 49 years on this planet... this is the first time I've ever put ATF into a transaxle !!! But what came out looked like ATF, the dipstick says use ATF and the resident USMB expert says to use ATF.... so ATF it is. By the way, the transmission fluid drained from the 3AT was absolutely black. Everyone... change your 3AT fluid tonight !!!

This is regular maintenance. I bought the car about a year ago. GD fixed the blown head gaskets. Car only had 85,000 on it. So I thought I should change the AT fluid and Front Diff (transaxle)fluid as the car is 28 years old and who knows if it was ever changed. Yes, I have the original owners manual. It talks about the AT and Dexron II. And the 5-speed (80w/90) and the 4wd transaxle (80w90). The 5MT and it's transaxle share the same fluid. I think the difference is that my car is Front Wheel drive only. But, still need verification of the Dexron II sticker on the transaxle dip stick. Just to verify... did I get the locations correct on my original post?

Hello Subie Gurus. 1985 EA82, 3AT, Front Wheel Drive (only). Ok, so I went to change my automatic transmission fluid. Drained about 3 quarts... then refilled from the dipstick hole (Left side of motor, Driver U.S.) with Dexron II. I know there are maybe 6-7 quarts in the system... but only 3 quarts drained out... the rest is still in the 'system'. Everything is normal. Now, I then drained the transaxle. About 1.2 quarts drained out. It actually looked like ATF. Which I thought was strange. I pulled the dipstick (right side of motor (Passenger U.S.) and the dipstick has a sticker on the top that says "use Dexron II". Thus, causing my confusion. I thought transaxles ran 80w/90 gear oil !!! At least they do in the 5-speed MT. Can anyone confirm that the transaxle in a Front Wheel Drive 3AT does in fact use Dexron II ATF? Thanks for your help... please !

OK... Last night I tried to remove the rear strut (They will be replaced with new ones)... The 2 top bolts (17mm) came loose. However, the lower strut mount bolt (17mm) and the nut (19mm) have denied my every attempt to loosen them. The nut is on the outer side and the bolthead is on the inner side. Any tricks to getting them off? I checked to see if the nut was welded on... but it seems not. So I'm wrenching the nut counterclockwise. Can't really get a throw on the inner bolthead due to the axle. I guess I could drop the trailing arm and the diff... but what happens to the brake line when it falls? Big bolts suck! Any ideas?

Been using Delo 400 15w-40 and Purolator filters for 20 years in my EA82 (since 1993). Over 220,000 miles and have had zero problems with the motor. Although, she leaks a little... I plan on a complete reseal this summer. I believe Rotella has the same military specs as Delo.

Thank you both for the replies. I have replaced several front axles on my EA82's. But never the rear axles. So here is my situation. I was replacing the rear shocks/struts... and noticed my axle boot is torn. So once I remove the rear strut... what is the quickest way to remove the rear axle? Also, I broke a few 3/8" drive components. Am heading to Sears for 1/2" Craftsman tools... I will be buying 17mm, 19mm and 22mm and a 10" extension. Any other socket sizes I need when dealing with the rear struts, trailing arm and differentional??? (I have a 3/4" drive 36mm already) Thank you for your help. I wish there was another Subie Nut in Tillamook County!

Ok... so I searched for removing rear axle from an EA82 and found this. The question is... how to remove the rear axle? Do I have to remove the trailing arm (with axle in it)? Help.... I just want to install my new axle shaft. Thanks in advance to those with experience doing this.