CoupedUpSubie

Well I plugged those numbers into a calculator to see what it would give me. With my 175/70/14 tires at 6000 rpm Gear Speed 1st 34 2nd 58 3rd 84 4th 112 5th 148 That all seems dead on for my car and redline shifts. Also gives me my 5400 rpm in 4th at 100 mph.(I had to do it once just to see)

opposedforces supplies 2 codes. I believe my car was built in April of 94. That means it could have both. I couldn't find any ratios or the final drive ratio. This is mostly a curiosity.

Well I have been attempting to find the gear ratios and what not that is in my trans but none of the charts on here have mine. 95 FWD 5speed- TM702KX3EA Anyone?

Lol. I know that user name.

I wrote this up a while ago to help someone: This applies to drum brakes on subaru's with the ej engine and select other makes(such as gen 3 vw's). If you have a different make then this may not apply. General tools: Sockets Wrenches Hammer Thread chasers Paper towels The tools specific to the job: Brake spoon Flare nut wrench Diagonal cutters Brake cleaner Brake fluid Dial Calipers Techniques without the tools made for the job: Brake spoon = bent flathead screwdriver Flare nut wrench = vise grips (may ruin the nut so be careful) or an adjustable Make sure the car is stable. Removing the drum: Remove the wheel Find the slot on the backing plate and insert brake spoon There is the adjusting wheel that needs to be backed off(screwed in to shorten it) to allow the drum to slide off Once there is no contact between the shoes and the drum use the hammer to give the drum a good whack between each stud(this helps with freeing it from the hub) Use a thread chaser to clean the two threaded holes that go through the drum Use 2 bolts that are long enough to press the drum off(evenly tighten them) if they don't move you have a problem Removing shoes: Turn the adjuster as far in as possible to release as much tension on the springs as possible Use diagonal cutters to grip the outside spring and pull it off(you won't cut it, spring steel is hard to cut) Remove inner spring Remove the pins in the middle of the shoes by spinning the hat 90 degrees The shoes will fall off if you aren't holding them so if you are reusing them be careful to not drop them Removing wheel cylinder: There are 3 connections in the wheel cylinder(1 line and 2 mounting bolts) All 3 should be soaked with your lubricator/rust treatment fluid of your choice Break the line free first but do not remove it Remove the 2 mounting bolts Clean all mating surfaces so the sit against each other properly and there is less room for movement. Contact points on the backing plates and hub should have some sort of lubricant/oil/grease applied for ease of removal and movement. Getting the new wheel cylinder ready: Open the bleeder screw Pour brake fluid into the hole for the brake line and cycle the pistons carefully to get fluid moving inside so bleeding the brakes isn't as hard Close bleeder screw Installing new wheel cylinder: Remove the old cylinder and immediately replace with new one to reduce amount of air you get in the system Mount the cylinder Tighten everything down If using new shoes use old shoes as a guide as to where the pin for the hardware goes Place shoes using the two spring fasteners Hook bottom spring onto the shoes Put ebrake and adjuster pieces back in their place Place top inner spring in its correct placement Place outer spring in its place Measure the inside diameter of the drum where it isn't in contact with the shoes Adjust the shoes out until they are just under the diameter of the drum Make sure the shoes are centered so they track properly Slide drum back on Using brake spoon adjust the brakes out so they almost touch the drum Bleeding brakes: REASSEMBLE EVERYTHING EXCEPT PUTTING THE WHEEL ON How to bleed brakes: make sure all bleeders are closed fill brake fluid resavoir to the full line have the person in the car depress the pedal slowly and hold at bottom open the bleeder on chosen wheel then close when flow stops(air or fluid, if air open for a second then close) close bleeder the person in the car can let pressure off the pedal now repeat until you get mostly fluid (remember to top off the brake fluid... as in check after 3 or 4 of these cycles) once you have fluid the pedal can be pumped 3 or 4 slow pumps then hold as before open bleeder and close when flow stops repeat your brakes are bled when no air is present in the fluid coming out of the line and the pedal feels stiff (like your parents vehicles should be) Once your brakes are bled put your wheel back on. I recommend checking to make sure the lug nuts are tight after driving for a while due to seperating the drum from the hub. REMEMBER: Do one side of internals at a time so you can compare setup and make sure you have it right. If you need new brake lines take the old one to the shop so they can match the nuts and flare.

Type of Wrenching: Maintenance, Professional(marine engineer, in school) How long doing it: Cars: 4 years, Atv's: 10 years, Ships: 2.5 years of school Other skills: Anything needed on a ship, some carpentry and masonry(family businesses)

Well I live in the great state of Maine, which loves to eat subarus. I drive a 95 Impreza L. I went ultra efficient with the 1.8L FWD 5speed. So far I have put 30k miles on it in 2.5 years. With current fuel prices thats about $3,500 in gas(over 4 times what I paid for the car). Being an $800 car I have done all the work myself. I've rebuilt the rear drum brake insides, cv-shafts, valve cover gaskets.(short list that might grow). I also had to do some body work which involved reshaping the bolt holes for the front bumper beam after the car had its second meeting with the rear end of another car(only one with me in it). Right now its winter mode with studded General Altimax Arctics and steel wheels. I just picked up a set of 14" alloys that I am stripping and cleaning to repaint for this summer. Once I am done with school and can buy a new car(probably going to a WRX or STi) this will become a rallyx car.

Any chance you could put a picture of the paint stripe on here? You can remove most pinstripes with a large eraser thats made to be mounted on a drill.