CoupedUpSubie

You can drop it from under as a unit but the steering and everything has to come with it. It all depends on how you will do it. On a lift or jack stands. Putting the trans back in and lining it up is the toughest part from what everyone has said if they just drop the trans. I believe you can get all the internal parts from Subaru.

It is possible. Here is an introduction video that has a ton of videos following it showing how to put one into a 96 Impreza wagon. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XfgSPvQ_7Ls&feature=plcp And yes it does run now.

Once you have the fluid changed you can buy a additive that glows in UV light. If you do it at night with only the UV light around for a source I am sure it would be much easier to locate the leak. Also depending on the location of the leak you could be sucking air into the system which will make the pump do very odd things.

If you simply unplug the switch the light won't work with the parking brake. Incomplete circuit = no light.

I had a similar problem for quite some time. Everything was good and the reservoir was full, no problem with the parking brake sensor. If I wanted full braking power as soon as I hit the brake I had to push the pedal down a bit coming up to a stop. After 3 or so months of this my pedal went straight to the floor. Switched the master brake cylinder and it was fixed.

I believe the fuel pump fuse is under the hood. The cover for that fuse panel should give you the layout. Can't remember if there is a relay also but if there is that would be labeled as well.

I always replace pads/shoes if I am putting new rotors/drums on. It takes care of any odd wearing which could decrease effectiveness or destroy a new rotors. I checked NAPA and they are listed for $35. Worth it to me.

Check your fuses. Also did you turbo the car? If not the thread title may be very misleading to people. The 2.2 didn't come in a turbo version in the US in 97.

I have a 1.8 FWD and they are tough. I've put 35k on mine(now at 170k) and I flog it regularly. Not very powerful but its fuel efficient. Being that clean and from Florida it is probably worth $1600-$1800. I wouldn't worry about the no ABS part all that much. Between rear drums(I am assuming it has them) and the smaller front brakes you will find that its just fine.

If it was the seperator plate then the backside of the engine would have oil on it. I'm guessing HG or just valve cover leak on the bottom.

There is only 1 EJ series transmission to use 23 splines. That is the front wheel drive 5 speeds. Your GL axle may have been a awd legacy/impreza axle. Here are the things you need to check: CV Driveshaft Compressed Length : 26 7/8" Inner Joint Spline Count : 25 Outer Joint Spline Count : 27

I'm not sure how it works there but most of the time the insurance person says it may cost a certain amount when in reality its a good amount less to fix. I highly doubt the doors will ever work right due to the amount of indentation there appears to be. I would take the money and put new doors on it. As long as the b-pillar is 100% straight the new doors will work fine.

I'm guessing your using a brake spoon or bent screw driver. Honestly I can never remember either. I have never seen any markings on the adjusters. I want to say they are right hand threads.

Is it full power spray with the wiper going? I'm leaning towards a loose connection or some wires grounding out. Check the switch for the rear washer fluid.

There are many documented cases of bosch platinum plugs losing the ground electrode while in a subaru engine. Honestly if you go to any subaru forum and ask what plug everyone finds works the best for them they will say NGK. This is due to personal experience using other plugs. What bstone was saying is that using OE wires and NGK plugs is a sure way to eliminate the possibility of that being the problem. Buying bosch plugs is twice the money compare to NGK plugs and in my case NGK plugs resulted in gaining 2 mpg over the bosch plugs. NAPA wires will cost you about $20. Have you tried cleaning the MAF and throttle body? If you go to get plugs and wires be sure to grab cleaner for them. Read the cans as you can royally screw things up if you don't. If cleaning and plugs and wires don't help then my money is on your front 02 sensor

I don't believe you can just replace the bearings in the idlers. Also its a better bet to just buy them and use the warranty if something is screwed up with them. As far as needing to replace them you don't have to unless the bearings are shot. Your engine should be non-interference which allows you to throw the belt and not damage valves.

A tip for the last plug that has the windshield washer tank in the way. Pop the tank out for a minute. It is two bolts, two plugs and two hoses. Just be careful with the hoses. I would change out the plugs to NGK's and replace your 02 sensors. O2 sensors will do many wierd things to these cars. Fairtax- he said the codes relate to MAF and the cat.

You don't have to run OE plugs and wires. I run napa wires with NGK plugs. It is true that subaru engines like the regular old NGK's and as long as you have a good set of wires then you are all set. I found the reason the Bosch plugs don't perform as well is due to a decrease in combustion leaving more carbon. Also you should notice a drop in fuel mileage and power on regular or what you normally run.

Quatros by bosch? Never heard of them but I believe your talking about the Platinum +4 plugs. They have 4 ground electrodes on them. My car started running like absolute crap with those and the good old cheap NGK's went back in. The problem with the Bosch plugs is that they are designed for engines where the plugs enter straight into the cylinder. If you examine the plugs you will notice half of it has some carbon build up after 1000 miles or so. Double check connections to crank and cam sensors and clean your MAF and throttle body. Be sure to use the cleaners made for each.

When I bought my impreza there was wiring for an amp and subs in it. It was run through the rubber plug you found and then down the drivers side under the plastic trim. The trim and everything comes out pretty easy.

I have dealt with drum brakes and bad wheel cylinders(what they are calling brake cylinder) a lot. In order to check the wheel cylinders they need to pull the drums which seems like more then what a normal inspection would entail. My advice is fix the ball joint and if your brake pedal feels fine and isn't mushy clean things up on the outside and go to a different place for the inspection.

Check brake fluid level and if its full then you can step on the pedal. If the pedal goes to the bottom then there is a problem somewhere. Look at the calipers and if they appear damp or you see fluid dripping then they need either a rebuild or they are junk. I bought front calipers for my car off Amazon for $25 or so a piece and they haven't failed yet.

Junkyard will be the place to look. I would replace the rotor and pads(dont forget the parking brake shoes). Also make sure the calipers still work if you can before pulling them. The 1.8 has plenty of power for AWD but will be slow, many people do upgrade to the 2.2. Being naturally aspirated there isn't much you can do to give the 1.8 a power boost.

I know your fumbling around with your AC right now but I can give you a parts list for the drum to disc conversion for a FWD car. These parts can be from an AWD(preferably a mid to late 90s impreza/legacy or forester) Disc backing plates parking brake cable from disc equipped car parking brake components rotors and pads calipers and bracket All it takes is removing all the old components and putting the new ones back on. The hub is the same for both disc and drum brakes on a FWD. Your rear brakes wont get all the power they normally would if originally equipped with discs. In order to get this you need to change the master cylinder to an SVX(don't quote me on that part). It could easily be done in a day. I do not recommend going to AWD with the 1.8 liter. They are under powered especially with AWD.

Exhaust work isn't half bad when you can just cut out the old and slap all nice new stuff in there, which I recommend if you live in a state which has car eating roads. If you plan on keeping the car for a few more years I would go with nice stainless fasteners when possible that have been dipped, yes literally dipped into a good anti-seize. Expect to have your sockets and wrenches coated at the end of the job. I did this for one connection on mine and it is still dull grey. I live in Maine so I know the pains of rusty exhaust.