CoupedUpSubie

I don't see anything that doesn't say they are definitely not roller rockers. I see the SLA and the top of the "tappet" or valve and that it. I don't see how the cam hits the rocker arm so there is no way to really say.

I want to say that second is commonly ground on occasion. I bounce mine every now and then when power shifting, don't think its even near 1/40 shifts. More like 1/100 shifts, but I spend most of my time in 3rd-5th. Try slowing down your shift times and use only two fingers to shift so you aren't putting as much force on the shifter to get it to go into gear. It will slide into gear more so then slamming it into gear. My trans doesn't like going into reverse all the time either. If it really doesn't then try putting it in first and then into reverse(I've heard that helps). I don't believe anyone makes a short shifter for anything older then '97 but I may be wrong.

Any subaru wheel will work other then newer(05+) sti wheels. As for fitment issues, just correct that with proper sized tires.

When you start the car the oil, CEL, battery and airbag lights should all come on with the switch for a moment and go out. The people you bought it from may not have but a shady mechanic could have disabled it.

18 mpg with a fwd 1.8? You definitely have a problem. It isn't the on off ramps doing it. I have the same setup and have never been below 25 mpg. Check all your vaccum lines, clean the MAF and throttle body(use the cleaners made for it). Does the CEL come on when you start the car? It may have been disabled. What is the mix of ethanol in the gas you have been buying? Try other gas stations as well, find the newest one and try the first. Your hard shifting is exactly what you think it is. Thats just how the transmission is.

I can drive my 1.8 with a 5speed pretty hard and never get below 27 mpg. Thats driving up and down the Maine coast. For those who don't know it has lots of hills. It is a coupe with FWD so that helps. I know people who say they get 30 mpg with a 2.2 and 5 speed. The auto's seem to get worse mpg. If he really wants to get all he can then a manual is what he should get.

What brake setup is on the car (ie disk/drum or all wheel disk)? From the sounds of it that could just be how your car reacts with the tires locked. Also depending on the roads it could be the crown put in the middle to shed water causing the rear to want to continue moving and the easiest route is down the bit of slope. I run into the same problem driving on snow. My front wheel drive impreza will track with the rear out 6 inches or so with the handbrake engaged going in a straight line.

What are you running for fuel? Some stations have 100% gasoline while others have E10 gasoline. The switch to E10 happened in Maine before I got my subaru so I am not sure what I would be getting with straight gas. The jetta with a 2.0L got 33-35 mpg on straight and dropped to 28-30 mpg with the E10. Also look into if your local stations run a "winter" blend as this also effects my fuel mileage. Once you replace your fuel filter I reccomend running seafoam or some other fuel system cleaner made for the fuel you use. E10 fuel requires special formulas. If you find that your filter is clogged after this then you know the cleaner did something for you. Yeah it is another $25 but if you are getting 4-5 mpg more then the savings will return.

A front wheel drive isn't all that odd. Many parts swap over but a few don't depending on if its auto or manual. I believe there are a few adjustments in the rear end but don't quote me on that. Some cars do only require the front to be aligned. If you need any help figuring out what parts will swap send me a PM, chances are I have figured it out.

Legacy, Impreza and Forester seats are all the same up to some year that I can't recall.

I am curious how the timing being off 1 tooth would effect the compression. To me it sounds like the heads needed a good amount taken off or the person doing the work took too much. Also the two different HG thicknesses could be the culprit. Thinner gasket and higher pressures could have caused your quick HG failure.

Considering they don't make the HP in 175/70/14 that my car requires I have run the RT version of the tire. Same basic tire but non-directional. They are both 440AA tires. Personally I don't like them for anything but dry pavement. Due to a college students budget I buy the cheaper tires instead of the ones I would really like to have. The traction isn't there for me, then again I do drive a front wheel drive impreza.

Noise is back. I was really hoping I had solved it. I only heard it briefly but its there. Hopefully next friday I can have someone ride in my car with me and help pinpoint where its coming from. I honestly think its the passenger CV shaft this time. Is there anyway I can test the inboard joint for failure? It doesn't have any rips or anything so I don't think its loss of grease.

Spacers will do what you need. It is a bit of a pain making them acurately but extremely possible. Be prepared to spend time with a round file. I made a set for the same reason on a rallyx car I drove. Just be sure you have enough threads on the lug nuts or get longer studs.

It could be if only the engine is blown. Depending on where you are and your ability you could have another engine swapped in for under $500.

Yup. I don't care what it is torqued to, if something rotates and is held on with a single nut or bolt then it needs to be secured with a cotter pin or something of that nature.

Pulling a knuckle isn't all that bad. You actually have the hardest part done for you. It takes me a 6 foot cheater bar to break the axle nut free if its been there for a few years. Was the axle nut crushed into the key-way on the shaft?

I would say the wheel bearing is toast. Might have even wrecked the knuckle. The brakes would be hot from the heat in the bearings. Could you smell hot brake pads? If not then my guess is that you ran the bearings to the point of them starting to seize.

:facepalm: I should have mentioned that I replaced all four bushings. The rear ones weren't a problem. The front ones were a pain. I had to remove the front bushings myself with no press. The new ones went in most of the way in a vise but required a 3lb hammer against the huge washer type piece I had to hit the outside sleeve. I put another washer under it with a larger hole. All of it was set on the tailgate of a 1ton dump truck.

Received the new bushings on Tuesday. Had to wait until yesterday to put them in. They were a huge pain getting the last 3/16" to go in. No noise as of yet but if it comes back then I will be ordering an EMPI axle. It is almost $30 more then a NAPA but its new.

I have a full set of bushings on its way so I can replace them this weekend. Luckily I only live 100 miles from school.

Tie rods. It goes to your steering rack

CV joints are all good. I have checked them 100 times in the past 3 months. The transmission noise is way too fast for my noise. Now the silicone leaking from a bushing. That makes sense. When I first discovered the noise I was told to check all of that and saw some white substance coming from my drivers side rear bushing. :facepalm: My father looked at it and didn't think anything of it. He isn't familiar with Subaru though. When I changed the drivers cv shaft I seperated the ball joint and pushed the control arm down out of the way. Could this have temporarily tightened the bushing, the noise went away for about 50 miles.

When something has to be said twice it really bugs me. If it isn't useful for the problem at hand then there is no need for it to be brought up. I give a clarification statement after the initial info. After that anyone who continues to mention something like driveline ujoints on a front wheel drive car deserves it. /rant.

FRONT WHEEL DRIVE I just turned 165k miles today.