rllywgn

assuming its a 2.2 do the basics, try intake, exhaust (something fit for a turbo), fuel pump, rising rate fuel pressure regulator, etc.. sticking to the bolt-ons which alot of will transfer to the new motor. also upgrade your cooling system while your at it. maybe not a must, but always a good idea. just my opinion rllywgn

how is your bov plumbed? does it empty into the atmosphere or do you have it plumbed back in? i beleive the car runs better with it recirculating. rllywgn

when i get to the money end of the project it will have 2.5" from the turbo back and a shiny muffler for those occasions that it gets washed.

UPDATE! so today i yanked the passenger side fender and removed the intake silencer box thing. I then proceeded to hack the bottom of the airbox out. sounds throaty almost ricey but more throaty so i think its ok. so now where to in the no buck build up? i guess i could spend maybe ten bucks.. any one have any suggestions on where to go next?

call me nuts.. I cant decide what to do with the a/c system.. it works and everything but the right side of my brain is saying yank it out... the left is saying leave it.. i cant decide. i think the only thing im worried about is my defrost, all 4 windows roll down so a/c isn't a huge deal.. any opinions on defrost function after a/c removal? pro's/con's? rllywgn 88 GL-10 turbo sedan ft4wd~5spd~lsd

i just wanted to say go seahawks!

what id like to do is box in the cut out section and weld in a smoothy plate along the protruding tab on top and bottom of the bumper. i think it should give the front end a nice clean look with flush turn signals

hers what i got so far.. i need to do a little welding or recruit someone near buy to assist:D but its coming along with zero out of pocket. i cut out all but the frame of the grill and inserted some cool Aluminum mesh.. and notice the notched bumper for additional cooling(welding needed) I believe thats about 6" off the front.. turn signal guards may be useless but the fit the theme.. who knows.. may stop a rock.. i have a slightly bent up lower valance, thats coming off tomorrow to get a lil straightning.. If someone has a rx front air dam they want to let go of shoot me a pm. more to come.. rllywgn 88 GL-10 turbo sedan ft4wd~5spd~lsd

mines a fulltime 4wd car... just shy of an rx.. difflock and such.. i have a bad outer in the front and the same in the back. So i guess the smartest maybe, atleast the quickest will be to just buy some lifetime axle's at the chainstore and plan on replacing them once in a while.. and in other news. I've had the car for 22hrs now and I yanked the perfectly good front end off the car tonight and started cutting things up. it's really super I swear.. pics coming soon.. Anybody recommend a good pic hosting service (free?) rllywgn 88 GL-10 turbo sedan ft4wd~5spd~lsd

i bought the car a couple days ago knowing that i would be replacing the boots at the very least. On the drive home i didnt here and unusual noises or clicking. Is it an absolute possitive that i should just replace the axle? that does seem i little overboard. the last time i had this problem i did a 5 lug conversion.. problem solved.. but, I cant find a xt6 currently to make this an easy fix. Also what about junkyard axle's provided that the boots are good and well greased inside? thanks rllywgn

i believe he's right. if i remember correctly you can spin the flange and have it rewelded. but i dont think the extra set is tapped.

i still have to crawl under the car but i know i have at least 2 boots to replace. hoping to find a few tips and tricks to doing it. the car is an 88 GL-10 4wd turbo sedan. Ive replaced axels before but never broken them down to replace boots. also anything wrong with ordering cv boots @3.99ea on ebay or going to another online store where there about 12 bucks each? thanks rllywgn

just relating to eco-parts.. theres an eco parts in pheonix, huge yard.. acres of cars... relatively high prices.. Im telling you the folks at the eco parts ive been to are trained very well they're pretty good at identifing parts.. i just didnt like paying 190.00 for "most" of the parts for a spyder intake. After spending the last 2 hours in 110 degrees pulling it, I wasnt just gonna leave it at the front.. rllywgn

i talked to that guy too... was this the 200.00 wagon ? on a a push button 4x4 car... if one of the rear axels was bad couldnt you still drive it? granted, accepting more damage to the already bad axel or is there something else im missing my old push button 88 turbo wagon front axels were the only ones i replaced.. so the backs.. hmm.. easy fixk.. just a lil time consuming rllywgn

i resided in arizona for 2 years and vegas for 2 years...i got my wagon muddy once in 4 years... it really drove me up the wall... so here i am in washington again i think it was worth it. rllywgn

i cant seem to get the search to work in my favor... its about half right half the time... oh well.. ive been trying to find also distributor options.. i cant remember if the 2wd disty's had a better advance then the 4wd ones did... rllywgn

i cant find it again in the photo gallery, wondering whos made ea82 turbo up-pipes? saw a really nice example of one in the photo gallery.. wondering if any one has any tips or short cuts such as premade flanges or whatnot.. who knows maybe some one will start building them for sale.. rllywgn 88 GL-10 turbo sedan 4x4~5spd~LSD

this whole clutch thing had me thinkin and looking... i was trying to track down the exedy clutch for the ea82 chassis ( good clutch imo) and found that it lists 200mm for 2wd models and 225 for 4wd models.. I havent had a problem using 2wd to 4wd or vice versa when throwing clutches around in subarus... what gives? rllywgn

my 2 cents from owning a more then a couple turbo cars... depending on how your driving it... some cars will experience a boost spike when you let off the go pedal under moderate to high boost situations due to the throttle plate closing and the pressure hitting a wall so to speak.. but if it does it while under constant pressure on the pedal something may be interfering with the operation of the wastegate either something blocking the valve in the exhaust or it being stuck or leaky. as far as i can tell the subaru uses the wastegate only for boost control. hope this helps Rllywgn 89 Toyota supra Turbo 88 Subaru Gl-10 sedan ft4x4-lsd-5spd-turbo-picking it up today!

Would this be a concern even with the injectors firing for a short time though? I would think that they wouldnt work at all... unless its just a weak ground... good thoughts... the list starts

Not sure how to explain this but from what the mechanic told me my 87 GL turbo wagon is loosing injector pulse after 15 to 20 seconds. It will start, idle, will not rev... then die after 30 seconds or so... at this point im kinda lost. The motors a low mileage jdm all the injectors have been tested good, fuel pump is good, and pressure regulator is good. Any advice that any of you have to offer would be greatly appreciated. The only thought Ive had is needing a good ecu... am i close?

I noticed that you had a set of hp coilovers on your car, just curious which car there actually meant for... wouldnt mind having a set for my wagon... thanks in advance

greggbrat, any luck figuring out where the problem is with your sube?

greggbrat, just wondering if you found the solution to this problem as i am having the exact same issue... im still searching for my gremlin... RllyWgn 87 GL Turbo Wagon *intercooled* 5 lug conversion exedy clutch No mud... damn desert