rllywgn

I have a 180 stat in my turbo.. 2 row radiator, electric fan with dash switch, and a modified front end. I run at 192F constantly, getting on the freeway with a/c on it will touch 200 for a minute. Living in the desert got me to be a little creative when figuring out how to make this car as near desert proof as possible.. it gets hot here btw.. wont the upper hose stay cooler if the stat doesnt open? whats the temp on the lower hose after driving?

snap.. my hyperlink didnt show up.. www.flat4lv.com theres a ton of guys there with open source tuning.. and i dont think you have to be without your ecm..

a lot of the guys in the local subie club here have done "open source" tuning.. apparently very effective way of tuning.. post up on and ask.. theres quite a few base maps to work with and they have had a ton of success. I dont know too much about it being that i have the oldest car in the club and just havent looked into it.. plus i think they have a new york / tri-state chapter..

Mine could probably use a lil updating.. but it still looks close to the same.. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2354087 p.s. i need another star.. feel free to rate generously!

what are you doing for front struts and hubs? congrats on the find! it took me a year to find my donor..

+1 but is it oil or coolant? but definately a line coming out on turbo heads

r134a isnt as efficient as r12.. by temperature / pressure relationship.. although using a larger condensor on our older subaru's can help when switching to r134a. and remember if switching you use 10 to 20% less refrigerant then the r12 factory charge. several things can reduce efficiency in a vehicle that previously blew "cold air", compressor wear, dirty coils ( both evaporator and condensor), leaks, and in some cases electrical issues. restrictions usually caused from contaminates in the system can also cause poor efficiency. most cars use an O ring type seal for the lines and valve seals as well as sensor ports. over time these can leak.. less refrigerant less efficiency.. also lack of oil in the system can reduce compressor efficiency. just a few thoughts..

Hey if you havent got the tune-up done yet.. you can swing by and ill help you do it. I'm sure we can get the sputtering sorted out. May be a possible vacuum leak or fuel delivery problem. I would also suspect the o2 sensor. I'll be at the meet thursday if you can make it.. btw.. no one stocks ea82 fuel filters here in town.. usually have to be ordered.. let me know if i can help

I'm not saying that adding refrigerant won't make your a/c blow cold.. but it really is a temporary fix.. if you have too add refrigerant you have a problem.. refrigerant in a sealed system will not break down or go anywhere.. I'm just trying to encourage people to fix the system, some leaks will take years to lose a charge and some will drop a charge over night..

Be warned that attempting to repair your own A/C system can be hazardous to your health, the enviroment, and your car. repairs including evacuation and charging should be done with proper equipment and Industrial chemical handling knowledge. Attempting to repair your a/c system correctly requires hvac specific tools if you do not have said tools i would not recommend that you attempt to do it yourself. That being said.. epa section 609 m-hvac certification is an open book test which can be taken online for around 20 bucks. this certificate will allow you to buy r12 in containers under 20 pounds for personal use or resale. But i strongly recommend that you take it to a professional.. epa has a nifty $10k fine for those that vent refrigerant to the atmosphere other than diminumuss release. It is also illegal to knowingly charge a system that has a leak. if you do choose to do it yourself please have a manifold gauge set, t/p chart, vacuum pump, and a 100% understanding of your vehicles a/c system and its operation. not to mention the necessary refrigerant and oil required for proper operation. This is information that can be handy for the mechanically adept, if you are unsure.. once again please do not try.. if anyone chooses to repair there a/c system please do it correctly, there is no such thing as a partial or temporary repair.. rllywgn hvac professional

My hope in the scheme of things as that most refrigerants stay inside a sealed system.. As stated above the only true effective way to empty your A/C system is with a recovery pump which is like a pass through vacuum pump.. it pulls it from the system and pumps it into a recovery tank. the recovered refrigerant by epa regulations either must be destroyed, reused in the original source it was removed from, or reclaimed ( recyled to an ARI standard). conversion will make the long run for service easier, but 134a needs a larger condensor to be as efficient as the r12 was in your car. also plan on replacing the filter drier for best results and pulling a vacuum on the system before refilling. FYI r404 is a replacement for r12 but requires a different oil. but you still need a epa certificate to handle it.. rllywgn EPA certified Professional service tech.

i can tell ya all the yards i used to check.. foster road in east portland hwy 99 in tualitan(sp?) 134th in vancouver.. and one by the expo center.. can't remember the street, small yard though.. buts it has been a bit since ive been through any of them..

I've notice that the harness is different, if its still on there, the main bundle will exit towards the turbo side. jdm motors typically do not have a egr valve. there we're a few other small differences, sensors and what not. but egr and harness location were the 2 that jumped at me

when theres bolts still in place yes.. although sometimes nudging does help if all said fasteners have been removed

purolator as i recall is whats on subies out of the factory yes? so that would be number one on the list.. i use my number 2 on my list of choice filters.. mobil1.. they have come very highly recommended..

a 2 row radiator will be perfect for any car.. turbo's especially when it comes to subaru's the thermostat is what regulates the running temp assuming that your radiator and cooling system is operating properly.. down here in las vegas i would be up s*** creek without it.. i run my a/c pretty much when ever im driving during the summer..

use the legacy condensor or larger... 134 needs a larger condensor coil than a r12 system to be efficient. drier is up to you.. i would work on adapting the legacy part, but not required

down here in the desert I use rotella 5w40.. good start up weight and sheering properties at full temp.. I had oil leaks before.. so i dont think synthetics are all bad on high mileage stuff. plus, rotella is 15 bucks for the big jug at wal of mart.. good stuff

Not how... but why.. I dunno about that one..

i took a look at mine and uhh.. what is the orientation of this photograph? im assuming this is from your ea82t?

buy the w'x.. In the long run you will be much happier.. thats if your looking for speed that is.. suspension and I believe braking upgrades are similar.. but engine bolt ons are gonna be different.. I'm sure you've already checked pricing between the two.. if your looking to be turbo'ed its alot easier with a car that was sent from the factory with it then dealing with the possible lack of reliability that doing a conversion can bring.. that pesky boost bug has a nasty bite imo

been around for a while, but always love seeing that thing.. some great video's of it on youtube also of the open road testing.. all I know is i want one..

It all makes sense now..

did you use a vacuum pump when you did the conversion? r134 does have a higher vent temp.. it's just not as good a refrigerant as r12..

ill give you a hundred for it.. thats so you dont have to deal with it anymore... consider it a favor.. nice brat.. there is a for sale section..