cal_look_zero

3" exhaust on a 2.2 will sound like rump roast and sap power. Go no bigger than 2" with at least a 12" resonator in line.

You know my vote already. I can help with the wiring and fab.

Does she have the factory "Code Alarm" keyless? Because it has a delay dome light that causes the door ajar light.

You'll have to pin it out from the ECU to the plug. Would be a great idea if you ever plan to tune. I'm not using the one from my WRX harness since I spliced into the OBS one, I could send it to you for $10.

I'm in the midst of doing the merge on my 97 OBS. I believe there's 6 wires related to the fuel system that are unused, along with a number of others like small light, drain valve, rear defogger, and etc. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f128/t141937-brydon-teaches-you-merge-harness.html

Oh sure, someone makes these a week after I toss my franky! Love it, maybe I'll build another one some day.

Super easy. Pull the intake tube/airbox, and battery. Easy access to all 4 with basic hand tools. I do it in about 20 minutes, novice shouldn't take more than an hour.

47.5mm total length work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-ICHIBA-40mm-12x1-25-M12-P1-25-14-25mm-EXTEND-LONG-WHEEL-STUD-NISSAN-INFINITI-/330877304431?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d09d2fe6f&vxp=mtr

Save your hassle, buy mine: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/139034-frankenstein-motor-for-single-port-22-cars/

Studs: 45mm Ichiba http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-ICHIBA-45mm-12x1-25-M12-P1-25-12-85mm-EXTEND-LONG-WHEEL-RIM-STUD-NISSAN-REAR-/230884682163?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c1cca9b3&vxp=mtr 50mm Ichiba http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-ICHIBA-50mm-12x1-25-M12-P1-25-14-3mm-EXTEND-LONG-WHEEL-RIM-STUD-SUBARU-SAAB-/330920452802?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0c6562c2&vxp=mtr

Holy crap, a Subaru rollin coal... nice

STiD, so cool http://www.rs25.com/forums/f128/t185042-subaru-diesel-ee20-swap-stid.html

New question: I can't use the late "D" crank with #5 thrust and 52mm rod journals in an early "D" case with a #3 thrust position, can I?

Yeah, it's a 99 25D. So I'm just going to move everything over and hope that someone can salvage the block half. Dishonest people piss me off.

So I'm about to bolt the passenger head on this 253 I'm rebuilding, when one of the head bolts doesn't catch threads. Lo and behold, the shithead who sold me the "good core" failed to mention that there's a broken off head bolt with a big ez-out broken off inside of it. Now that I've spent way too much time trying to get the broken bolt out with exactly 0 success, I am now in deep spoob because I have a set of brand new bearings and rings, a freshly polished crank, factory HGs, and a USELESS 253 case. I don't have much in the way of resources at this point. I need to know if I can just move everything into another block? I have a block that I stripped for my next build that had "D" square dish pistons, but a 52mm crank and #5 thrust position like the 251/253. If that's the case, then I'm back in business. FWIW, I plan on stripping down the 253 block and having the broken off bolt drilled and helicoiled or something to that effect, but for right now I need a quick solution. Thanks.

If you want the Subi rumble, you need a header and axleback at a minimum. If your engine is a 2.5, it has dual port heads and you can find Borla replicas ALL DAY on ebay for cheap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-05-SUBARU-IMPREZA-WRX-2-5L-RS-EJ25-NON-TURBO-STAINLESS-EXHAUST-RACE-HEADER-/150816528065?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item231d5d96c1&vxp=mtr Then have an exhaust shop hack off your stock muffler and put something like a magnaflow or vibrant muffler on with a 12" resonator to get rid of the raspy sound. For the intake, leave it be; the MAF cars are bitchy about intakes. If you must mess with it, do a "williaty hybrid" where you leave the stock airbox in place and run an aluminium tube in place of the plastic accordion tubing.

205/40/17 would be your best bet. Almost identical diameter to stock: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tirecalc.php?tires=175-70r14-205-40r17

There's always the supercharger route...

Better off with a used WRX or STi unit. Your oil pressure is pretty much spot on anyhow, but if you think you need an upgrade, that's the route I'd go.

Come to think of it, I have heard some dribbling sounds in my heater core on startup. Well I'll do a flush and refill in the morning and report back. I've got 2 other cars and a moto to use if need be.

Ha, that's what was wrong with mine as well. Happened right after I swapped to discs in the rear, so I figured that was it. Stupid coincidences.

Well after a solid 22k miles of thrashing my franky equipped OBS, I think she let a head gasket go today. Got to the freeway offramp and the gauge started to spike. Drops back down when I'm driving, comes back up on idle. Got to work and my overflow was starting to boil. Had some overheating last week and changed out my thermostat for an OEM one, but I think it may have been too little, too late. Bollocks. Here I was hoping I wouldn't be commuting on my CBR this summer. Dammit Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!

Did a new CTS early on, intake was smoke tested, pcv is Subaru OEM and cleaned monthly, 5mt, and the ECU is about the last thing I planned on replacing; almost not worth it at this point.

The P0304 saga continues. At this juncture, I have logged about 30k miles on the car since January of 2012. After being tuned by Pre a few months back, my loverly p0304 came back in force. No I don't have snapshot data, don't ask or suggest it. Here's the funny part about this fault code. I have changed out absolutely any and every single part on the engine that is related to misfires. Engine itself injectors FPR Fuel pump plugs wires coil pack igniter IACV MAF Knock sensor crank sensor cam sensor o2 sensors cats I shake my head about it, then pulled the bulb from my CEL. No more CEL. Problem solved!

So I ran a 98 EJ25D block with 97 22E heads. Standard resurfacing on the block and heads; no milling down. .040 Cometic MLS head gaskets. My original plan was a nasty CR with wiseco pistons and such, but I realized that I couldn't get too much more power from a little more CR, and it would probably cause more headaches anyways. Delta cams, 370cc injectors, PP6 tune, PnP on the heads, I/H/E (stock cats) and I made a little bit under a stock 2.0 WRX. Estimated to be about 200hp/220tq at the crank. tl;dr: Power adders and a tune are more beneficial than >12:1 CR