cal_look_zero

I got my 97 two years ago for $1500 with 226k, bald tires, pot scented interior, cracked windshield, and piston slap... Sounds like a good deal to me. I recently sold a 95 legacy that had 308k miles on it.

I may take you up on that. I ordered a reman from Oreilly's but then they said it's NLA, so I may just need a good used unit. Shoot me a PM. It's some sort of tie down hook, I'm recalling her saying something about using the car to haul their canoe to the lake (Judging by the bent cross bars on the rack, seems legit)

Just acquired a big Perrin TMIC, a VF43 STi turbo, some TGV deletes, a 750cc kit from deatschworks, and some Tanabe GF210 springs. Happy Festivus to me!

Sounds good. I'll email you tomorrow.

Yeah, I'll be redoing the entire wiring, new fuse block, wire ends, etc. Probably going to order a distributor and carb kit and see if I can get it running.

So upon gutting the 76 wagon, I quickly realized how far gone the door seals were. They're obviously not rocket grade, so I started looking around for basic "bulb" push on seals. Before I waste a bunch of time looking around, does anyone have a preferred brand/company they use? If not, I was thinking of buying a huge spool of it on ebay (Enough to do 16 doors by my estimate) and selling what I don't need on here at a discount from the "by the foot" stuff I see in online stores.

Is that just a pair of center caps? I too have just a pair, and either need to sell my 2, or buy 2 more. Price?

Grrrrr.... On a different note, I hooked a battery up and got nothing. Then out of the blue, I hear the fuel pump trying to prime. Manage to get the horn to beep, and to get the starter to turn the engine over. So at least some of the electrical is in order. No lights or anything else though, but it's a start.

Pulled it into the shop today and begun gutting the interior in hopes of drying it out. Engine turns over freely by hand and builds compression. More than I was expecting given that the distro is missing. Oil level is perfect (No water present) and dark (Not scary, just used) and the tranny fluid looks new. Might see if I can get it running as is. (After I source a distributor). All the doors open and close, windows go up and down. Going to hook a battery up tomorrow and see what kind of electrical still works and what needs attention. Also found some sort of tow bumper in the back under all the garbage; though I'm not entirely sure what one would plan to tow with a car this underpowered?

1976 wagon. Going to be looking for all of the door window scraper/seals, as well as door seals for all 4 doors, and the rear hatch. Would like to make it rain proof, then begin working on everything else I may need. Any sources on where to start looking for this stuff?

Some better pics, quite a difference 21 years makes.

So I have a craigslist ad up, looking for cheap fixer Subarus. I get an email for a "1976 Forester" which I can only assume is a wagon. I call the lady and have a nice chat about the history of the car (She's had it since 84) and she says "As long as you don't scrap it, you can come get it for free" Fortunately I borrowed my buddy's big F350, because I had to literally drag the car out of the bushes. However, what came out was fantastic: There's a little cancer under the fuel door, and under the rear glass, but otherwise the body is good. The windows were left down about an inch, so the interior and upholstery are garbage. All 4 wheels spin, and I think I may have freed up the engine from dragging it in gear! The plan for right now is to gut it and dry it out. I would like to EJ it since I have 6 of them laying around right now, and I may go D/R or just an EJ 5 speed. This will probably be an incredibly long project as I am still building on my Impreza, and running my shop, but I hope to have built something incredibly cool by the time I'm done.

I just encountered this doing headgaskets on a SOHC 2.5, when the dealership sent me a turbo head bolt which was 3/4" shorter than what I needed. I believe the SOHC of all vintage are 8", DOHC non turbo are 7.6", and turbo are 7.25"

Most of those parts store remans are lifetime warrantied; if you don't mind replacing them now and again. I'm boosted so I change a front axle monthly...

If it's a legit 04 JDM 205, unload it for a USDM 205. It will have avcs and higher compression, and be a huge pain in the keester. That said, I know you can block off the avcs in the 2.5 heads to run them on a 2.0 ecu, and if you're okay with having to get the car dyno/road tuned, then you might be able to make it work by swapping the engine wiring for what plugs into your bulk harness. Pics will help, too.

WRX wagon x member with stock p/s rack and shimmed stock gc control arms. Off a bugeye WRX. I was going to run p/s-less, but it's easier to roll back to that later than to eliminate it and try to reinstall p/s later.

Thanks, I'm kind of way proud of it. I did EVERYTHING myself on it, built the engine from the block up, merged the wiring harnesses myself, and learned how to opensource tune it. I'm putting it on the dyno for a protune on Wednesday and will have some newer, much more impressive numbers to post up.

I... I don't know what happened man. I mean one minute I was driving along with a frankenmotor, and the next...

I think the only car that really requires 17s is the STI with those big ol Brembos.

I'm actually having to lose the cruise on my OBS since the unit would interfere with the downpipe, so I'll toss that on and see if it fixes it.

Got another quirky one. The cruise in my Foz works, but after about a minute. So if I'm driving at 70 and engage cruise, let off the gas, it will slowly decelerate to about 40 and then VERY slowly accelerate up to the set point. If I try to adjust it up or down, it takes another minute to catch back up. All I've check thus far is cable tension, replaced the vacuum line, and lubed the cable. I'm guessing the internal boot might have a tear which causes the vacuum required to pull the cable to take a longer time to build up. Or maybe the controlled is shot; the car has a lot of electrical quirks.

2000 Forester has 230k miles 1997 OBS has 265k miles 2005 OBW has 108k miles 92 Loyale had 336k when I sold it Flipped a 95 Legacy Sedan with 318k and no problems but reverse going out in the auto tragic.

This is what I was thinking/hoping against. I have a good 10mm I'll probably throw on there in it's place. Damned phillips head screws.

I already run 15w40 Rotella T year round. I've had a couple 300k+ Ej cars that didn't flicker the oil light. I saw nothing in the oil when i changed it to indicate bearing failure or anything, so I guess I'll just gauge it to make sure everything is good, and run it from there.

So my DD Forester, 230k miles on original engine, I've only had it about a month. Just noticed in the last couple of days that the oil light comes on every now and again if I make a harder stop. Oil level is normal, I just changed it 2 weeks ago. Oil pump is not seeping anything (Not to say the backing plate hasn't come loose inside), and the engine actually doesn't leak or seep ANY oil from what I can tell so far. I need to hook up my oil pressure gauge and see what she looks like at idle on up I guess. Any ideas? I'm hoping it's a wonky sensor or something, but I'm leaning towards pulling the oil pump and seeing what I find inside.