mr sarcastic

Damn, that's not what I wanted to hear. I just had the steering column out when I changed the pedal cluster....

Yes, that has been already changed back to stock. Any advice on how to remove the heater core?

So far so good, the more I drive it the better it runs. But, now I'm having an issue with heat, I'm getting none. One hose is hot, one is just warm, heater core is clogged. I'm gonna soak it in CLR and flush it, but I'm thinking about replacing it, a new one is $80 on RA. How do these units come out? Does the entire heater box need to come out? Maybe through the passenger side foot well?

Ya, I agree with naru. The aav is an open/close unit. Closed it will give you your lowest idle and this is the possition it in most of the time. It's only open when cold, and open it raises the idle. If your aav is malfunctioning, chances are you'll have low idle on cold starts ONLY, or a high idle once the car is warmed up.

I ended up grabbing an auxiliary air valve from a buddy that's meant for a CIS fuel injected vw rabbit. It's a Bosch unit and is used in many many European cars from the 80's. I linked a picture of what it looks like. Hooked it up in place of the unit on top of the thermostat housing, and it seems to work great. Cold it's open, and after it gets 12v the bimetal strip slowly shuts it and the idle drops. The wire plugs in, no need to rewire. I tested the lead and it gets 12v until the CTS tells it that the car is warmed up, then engine heat will control the opening. The engine definitely starts nicer and idles better, but its not perfect. I'm still on fuel that's over a year old and the I haven't gotten everything I need for a full tune up. I'll keep you guys posted on how it pans out.

On my ea82t, I'm currently on the hunt for an auxiliary air valve/idle air control valve. I'm finding that the ea82t and regular ea82 units are different, and all I can find for new units are for a ea82. Has anyone used a different AAV on there ea82t? I'm assuming that these all work the same: spring loaded to keep it open, heated coil slowly shuts it as its heated by 12v and engine temp.

well, i dropped it off the jack stands and ripped it up and down the street! it pulled nice, shifted smooth, but i'm still having an issue with the coolant temp sensor. it starts hard, idles high, sets off the CEL when its unplugged.... but when its plugged in, the CEL turns off and it runs super rich. it wont rev up its running so rich. so, i ordered a new one from rockauto ($8) along with a new o2 sensor and spark plugs. altogether shipped it was just shy of $40, worth the money too me. anything else i should change right now in regards to the fuel injection? the MAF was pricey so i passed, but there was an air intake charge temp sensor that i almost got. not sure it that really does anything though.....

Read the code, 21 coolant temp circuit. I was just in there and noticed the connection was pretty green. I'm gonna clean it up and see if that'll do it. Can't wait to get this thing on the road....

Read the code, 21 coolant temp circuit. I was just in there and noticed the connection was pretty green. I'm gonna clean it up and see if that'll do it. Can't wait to get this thing on the road....

I did some research and came across this. http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ I've read something about an "auto kick down" relay or circuit on automatics. It's connected to the automatic teansmission and will make things funky when you eliminate the automatic setup?

UPDATE! It's 99% done and ready for the road. Did the 5 speed swap, swapped the power steering to manual, put the intake back to original, put an oem coil (from the donor carbed car), many new coolant hoses, swapped over the new front brakes from the donor, and probably more stuff I'm forgetting. All I need to do now is bleed the brakes and top the coolant and tranny oil. I hit the key last night to make sure it ran and it took some cranking to get it to start. Once it did it ran real rough.... It started to do this before I started working on it, but I was hoping the oem intake would fix it. I pulled the plugs, they were toast. I threw in the plugs from my carbed engine and it fired right up. I only let it run for a 20-30 seconds considering its empty on coolant, but the rpms rose to 2k and the CEL came on. So, how do I read the code? I'm used to vw's where I need a code reader.... Also, for more info, I kept all the automatic transmission stuff in the car. I pulled the electronic portion off the shifter and kept it in neutral. So now the car starts and hopefully will be happy with life thinking its in nuetral.

I wanna go to that spot they were hitting in Nelson BC. Ridiculous.

I thought it was mainly just us old farts that loved these cars, but this kid is 24 and he built it cause its his "dream car". I guess it's an STI swap. http://xgames.espn.go.com/snowboarding/article/8625386/lucas-debari-new-movie-go-blake-paul-alex-yoder-kael-martin

I read somewhere last year when this was being filmed that it has a wrx swap. http://snowboarding.transworld.net/1000209792/videos/go-boardin-full-movie/

Ah, so the difference is just between fwd and 4wd....

I'm halfway though a 5 speed swap on my 87 GL-10. Donor car for the tranny is an 86 GL D/R 4wd 5 speed. I figure with having the tranny out, I might as well freshen up the clutch. Rockauto is showing many different kits: 4wd, fwd, turbo, non turbo.... What would be the difference on these kits? Spline count, flywheel circumference?

I'm into it. I usually lower everything in my driveway, it's been tough not to go down with my GL-10... This is quantum.

Well if they (straight 8's, v12's) were made air cooled, then yes it's obvious that those layouts worked. They did it right? You guys make it sound like I'm saying "run your engines without coolant! Your good!". All I said that maybe the layout helps with cooling considering that the most common air cooled engine ever made shared the same layout. Is that the only feature of the setup that allowed it to be air cooled, as pointed out, no.

The point is, flat 4 engines have been used air cooled. So obviously the design works well to keep cool with just air flow.

Interesting! Maybe Goliath copied vw.... Or vice versa!

you guys could pretty much put any wheel PCD on your car, in a couple different ways. you can do this redrill, or get adapters. with the redrill, you just need to be super acurate with the holes cause it looks to me that these setups are lug centric, the wheel is centered by the placement of the lugs. i've done a few redrills on vw's, but vw's are hub centric so if one or even 2 lugs are off a tad, the wheel center's its self on the hub. if the hub is not the same size as the wheel your putting on, they have hub centric rings to make up the difference. and if your lug is significanly off, you can get a wobble lug bolt/nut (also know as variation lug bolt/nut) to make up the difference. i've even used them for on my wifes car to put a 5x114 wheel on her 5x112 hub without a redrill, using the factory holes. here's a picture of the latest redrill i did, its for my quantum that was originally 4x100, i put 5x120 wheels on. in the background you can see the adapter, in this case i used it as a template. if i dont have one, i usually just use the wheel as a template, i just make sure that i make the wheel centered on the hub (hub centric) before i center punch the holes. i use a common home depot drill press to do this, nothing special. i even once left the hub on the car and used a hand drill, but it was not nearly as accurate. i definately needed wobble bolts in that setup. also, its probably useful to point out that i always use lug bolts. this may or may not have solved your problem with the stud backing out. when your using a stud, you have 2 threads to torque correctly, with a lug bolt you only have one, so its easier. just a little more of pain to line up when your putting wheel on. adapters. there are a few company's that make them. the one pictured above is 4x100->5x120, 18mm thick and made by Adaptec. they can be pricey, $300-400 for a set of 4. i didn't use them on this setup anymore cause they pushed the wheel out a bit to much and i was rubbing on the inner fender. they can make adapters for most conversions, 4 to 4 lug, 4 to 5 lug, even 4 to 6 lug, and vice versa. they also can do them at different thickness's as well. many people dont think they're safe, but i've run many sets under some pretty horrid conditions and had no issues. the key is to install them correctly, if you dont torque them right, its user error.... i've put many many miles on them, taken massive pot holes and bridge junctions that put my car our of commission and the adapters took the beating when my car couldnt.

As for your second question, could air flow have been enough? Maybe, being that Subaru took their design of these flat engines from vw, which were air cooled. Subaru putting them up front would give them more air flow then the original air cooled vw design.

You very well could have been overheating. With the temp sensor being on the top of the engine in the intake, it would have been quick to run out of fluid. It's location has air flowing all around it, so with out the probe in fluid i can't see it having an accurate reading. The location of the sensor is pretty horrible, I personally would like seeing them in a coolant passage way on the block or head, it would be way more accurate for the engine temp.

I second that you should tune up the donor car before you rip the engine out. Take this opportunity to get the engine running well!

don't we want to be using a diverter valve instead of a BOV? these engines run with a mass air flow sensor, wouldnt releasing metered air into the atmosphere effect the performance? also, on any car you start messing with boost, i recommend one of these: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTXL.php they're super easy to install and crazy accurate.