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Found 8 results

  1. Divisible_By_0

    What if? 1.6l

    So I have an old clapped out 1.6l and was wondering what would happen if it is even possible to slap a 1.8l crank into the 1.6l block mix matching parts as necessary to make it fit. would it even start, would it have more or less comp, would it be stroked?
  2. Hello I am a newbie that loves working on his new 1985 Subaru GL Wagon. I am wondering if any of you can tell me how hard it is or if there are any special tricks to changing a water pump. The Mechanic I took it to said it was leaking in multiple places and was wanted 450 to change it. Considering I bought it for $500 I figure I should do it myself. If you have any info on changing the pump, or any manuals for the 85 GL it would be hugely appreciated. Thank you, Dewey
  3. Car wouldn't start after parking it for a 1/2 hour on a slight hill. Had it towed home. I determined the timing belt had failed by removing the right cover and placing a mark on the belt...started the engine and it did not move. Took it apart, lined up my marks but forgot about the #1 cylinder thing~ redid it...using a gun cleaning rod dropped down into cylinger #1 and putting a mark on it in line with the edge of the body to detect the upstroke. When it was out the farthest, the arrow on the crank sprocket was right where it should be. I cranked the right hand side clockwise to bring the mark up. The left cam pulley is freed. I positioned the belt using all the marks, installed the tensioner and bottom pulley, pulled the pin and nothing moved out of position. I put the crank pulley and bolt back on...(runs better with it on) and it wouldn't start. Is it possible that even though it seemed cylinder 1 piston was all the way up that it was actually up on the exhaust stroke? Am I not understanding this? Also, I think I need to clear some codes, because I questioned that the MAF may have failed too...and I remembered I had another Subaru that would run with the (bad) MAF sensor unplugged. It wouldn't run well, but it ran. In unplugging it, maybe I threw up some codes, and because the car is so old, I don't think there is a port to plug in my diagnostic tool. Could it be the crank sensor? Car aaaaaaaaaaaalmost wants to fire. I changed the filter as I hadn't since I got the car. Key on, fuel shoots out. This is my third timing belt change and I can't help but think there may be something else wrong.
  4. I'm buying a stock 1994 Impreza L 1.8 from someone I know, and I was wondering is it at all possible to put/install a turbo into the car? Does anyone or can anyone answer this.
  5. Oregon Bugaru

    74 VW Super Beetle with Subaru swap

    Picked up this straight body 74 Super Beetle a couple years back for the bugaru project.
  6. Hi Any help would be much appreciated. I have been trying to get this car going again. I have a 87 Subaru GL 1.8L ea82 carburetor engine Manual Transmission. I am doing a timing belt replacement. Plus, I decided to change the cam and crank seals at the same time. I was following the basic Chiltons book while doing the change. I removed the old belt in the initial part of the change. Now as I am putting things back on, and ready to put on the new timing belt, I am reading to have the cam sprockets positioned differently then they are. On the Driver side my Cam sprocket is DOWN. On the Passenger side my Cam sprocket is UP. Now that I have the timing belts off, how do I move my cams to the proper position to finish belt install? I'm nervous about how they should be correctly moved, all instructions simply say line it up with no in-depth details on how. Here is the DRIVER CAM with hole DOWN: http://s12.photobucket.com/user/luckyme218/media/car/photo1.jpg.html Here is the PASSENGER CAM with hole UP: http://s12.photobucket.com/user/luckyme218/media/car/passcam.jpg.html
  7. Hello everyone, new member, purchased a '92 Loyale wagon to get us up the mountain (and our driveway) in the winter. Car was running great for the first few weeks of ownership but just lately has started to run a little erratically. So far I've cleaned the MAF sensor and have installed a new WIX brand air filter from Napa. First start in the morning it used to run at a high idle until the accelerator pedal was depressed then settled into a lower idle, which from experience is how it should run. Reversing up to the driveway and then going up the driveway it ran great, no hesitation or stalling. Now when it's started in the morning it'll run high idle for about 10 seconds and want to cut out. After about 30 seconds warm up I go to reverse and it wants to die unless I keep the revs up and ride the clutch a little. Same going up the driveway it wants to cut out and hesitates. Also when driving around town it doesn't run smoothly, there's a distinct hesitation when accelerating which dissipates somewhat if you increase the revs before changing up gears. So I'm thinking possibly fuel filter clogged or possibly the TBI injector faulty or maybe the air bleed valve or similar is not working properly? Or could it be an electrical problem? Any guidance or suggestions much appreciated.
  8. I just bought my first subaru, It is a 1988 Subaru GL-10 Turbo 1.8L 2wd Sedan, I would like to start doing some small modifications to the car, and slowly build the car up. I have enough stock parts to build this car over a total of 4 times (minus complete motors, transmissions, and shells, I have extra body panels and a ton of etc parts) Basically i was wondering for first of on this list of mods: 5 Lug conversion Lowered suspention Blow off valve Front mount intercooler adjustable boost controller w/ boost gauge catback exhaust anything to add some small horsepower without breaking the bank too badly, or to make the car more reliable. please if somebody could start me off in the right direction that would be great, i just finished all of the body work to the car, now i am eager to start modding!
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