SkankinPickle

It will screw into place and fit in the dash just fine. If you like this design better than the 82+, you can certainly rewire the connectors on your cars harness to make this work. Another thing you could do if you have a donor 82+ cluster is cut the two circular pin sections out of the circuit board on the back and then use the two round connecters cut off of a 80/81 harness and make an adaptor so u don't have to alter the stock harness on your car at all. It's a lot of work, but I think worth it. The earlier cluster looks better IMO. Especially when you paint the inside cover light charcoal or dark silver (the black plastic part in-between the dials).

Finally, a use for FWD transmissions!

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THe black vents on top of the dash for the defroster: did you take those off? They're two peices (left/right) and are held on by four little plastic reuseable rivets (remove them with a flathead screw driver). Underneith there are three or four bolts that hold the top of the dash to the firewall. I used a pair of vice grips and a socket clamped at an angle to loosen and take them off. The other main bolts are on the bottom side of the dash. One big one on each side infront of the door that screw into the body.

Here's pic of the dual exhaust port from the Dual-carb EA-81 RX motor (which had reversed intake and exhaust valves) and a custom header (maybe factory, not sure). Before the days of easy EJ swaps this was my dream. These motor's exist, there were quite a few exported to New Zeland inside coupes, that might be a good place to possibly find one.

Some 2nd-gen pics, in case you haven't seen them before...

That is the best rear deck lid spoiler fot the XT6, holy lucky bastard. There was a group on XT6.net (I think that's the site, ask Turbone) that was reproducing that whole kit, or at least the front spoiler for that body kit. post there! There were two kits by Kaminari:

Look Mah! No Fuel injectors

GD is correct about cuttin up the core support to swap in the two head light set up to allow all the stock '81 parts to fit. I actually think the '80-81 style Third-eye looks better because it has no grill slat bounderies on the eye cover itself like the '82 only version does. You can install the third eye by unbolting the bottom bolt of the vertical center hood-latch-support and cutting off the top of the center support with a grinder and cutting wheel (or hack saw). Then drill out the four bolt holes in the upper core support to match the top part of the third eye assembly. Once it is fully bolted down, carefully test fit and cut a hole in your stock quad headlight grill to allow the third eye to fit. Carfreak82 has done this on his '84 Turbo wagon and it looks good. I little too much chrome IMO, but you can paint some of the chrome black.

since'82 the voltage reg. has been built into the alternator so it's all one unit. Fuel Pump relay good? (it's right above hood release handle inside the car) I'm sure you already gave your old pump 12v and it didn't make any sound right?

...is that the voltage reg circled in the picture?

Tips for Digital Dash Owners: 1.) Redo all of the main Battery power lines with all new cable of the same gauge. Mostly focus on the positive cable to the starter as well as the negative ground to the motor. The insides usually have corrosion four or five inches down the wire inside the insulation. 2.)Also don't forget that little ground wire that goes from the negative battery terminal to a little tab on the car's body right above the headlight (on 80-82) or above the battery on the wall (83-up). Replace all connectors and use sandpaper on the bolt. 3.)Buy a higher end alternator. But make sure that it is a different part number (Sometimes parts stores give you the same alternator yet just charge you more for a longer warrenty).

GD, Question then. Couldn't a short cause the alternator to work excessively hard, and then cause premature failure? ...leaving the gauge cluster vulnerable.

Indeed. I'm pretty sure that it's some sort of grounding issue in the harness (causing the alternator to throw out excessive voltage). Every second-gen L-series I've owned has had a secondary switch for the radiator fan, not that it's related, but it seems like the factory circuit is very prone to shorting out. Maybe these problems are adjacent to one another in the harness(?). My GL-10 is currently in parts; otherwise i'd run through the harness with an electrical tester one small section at a time and isolate the drain.

'82 uses the flat flange in the rear. 83+ uses the beveled/tapered end, which is spring loaded against the mid pipe to allow very slight 360* movement of the mid.

Seriously, it might not be in perfect shape, but it's still better than 90% of the 2nd-gen "L" series (leone) sedans left in the country. To the vast majority of people it is a prime example of an EA-81 powered sedan. I guess what i mean is keep perspective on the value of your subaru and not your subaru related to everything else. Plus now, with your wheels it's an awesome car!

Hey H.sub, I have a chrome "SUBARU GL" emblem for the deck lid of your sedan if you want it. It would match the polished lip of your enkies perfectly... If you want it, Pm me your address and i'll mail it to you for the promise that you'll bestow it upon your trunk.

Mick if you don't mind... 1980 Parts manual: Ashtray; Grey= 7660 48240 Brown= 7660 48250 Blue= 7660 48260 (it doesn't explicitly list a color by the part # on the ash trays, but it appears an intuitive match based on a comparison of model applications listed by every part #)

Second that motion, OBDII didn't start until 1995 on legacys.

I want to go on a road trip to Idaho... Ok, this is really strange, look at the star emblem on grill and tell me if I'm just seeing things.

Is there any way at all for you to find a pair of those front fender mirrors to sell to me??? Please?!?

I wish these accesories were still avalible... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/projectrudy/leoneacc1.jpg http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/projectrudy/toudoriAL.jpg How about this wheel (the ones labeled Rally White, Silver, and Chrome)? These where the only subaru factory rims that were 14'' in diameter with the 4x140 lug pattern (these are more prevelent in australia, and virtually non-existant in the U.S.) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/wheels.html#soob14 ?????

I was replacing the struts on a friend's 98 Legacy sedan GT Ltd. As I was removing the driver's strut, there was still a little pressure from the spring and the axle pulled out of the DOJ. Do I need to take the DOJ boot apart to slide it back in or can I just feel blind and push it back in???? Please help me, I need to finish this before my parents come home this after noon!!!! Ahhhhhh! Will an axle from a first gen legacy fit on a second gen Leg (1998 GT)?

GL-10?!? Digital gauges?!? sweetness... don't let this thing die, its definitely an 80's classic. from what i've heard, once the freeze plugs have fallen out, you will need to find new ones to install, yet i drove an EA-81 around for a month after reusing an old freeze plug in my GL-10 wagon. Still the latter approach should only be a temporary solution to be safe, cause if it falls out while driving...well two words, chocolate milkshake.

the wires that go from the power window relay to the center consol switch run under the carpet right under your feet beneath the carpet in the front. maybe the insulation has worn off in a spot and grounded out some how. I say first off lift up the carpet on the driver's side and check the condition of the wires.