rrgrr

Here's one I drew up and had local shop do for me (I am not a welder)

That 12 is a beauty! I would love to get my hands on one. Are you putting in a racecar? What sort of bellhousing/trans does it hook to? More pics, please!

you are probably looking for a vacuum leak.

The closer to Center the cable is the quicker your throttle response will be.I found a happy medium worked to get maximum travel, opening,and feel the way I want it to. Placement and type of return spring are important too, to get the action the way you like.

I had to use the Weber supplied swiss cheese cable attachment and a point closer to center of the radius to get throttle travel to (almost) wot on the Weber.

No,just seems like a Ted... Plus he Totally Escaped Death!

This is Ted

It is back together and running good! Thanks again, Could not have done that without your excellent help! I was really getting sidetracked with all the tooth count and whatnot. Now I am having a beer! Cheers!!

It's Alive!!! :D Thank You So much Fairtax4me!! -I have never done it that way. All the tooth count info looks to be incorrect, also, the printed marks on this belt would never work. Now to take it all apart and put the water pump, etc, in.

So I marked the belt with the AutoZone lines and here's how it "lands" with the cam and crank timing marks aligned: Maybe you can see my marks (arrows drawn to them)

Thanks I went looking for tooth count in another thread and marked the belt(-it looks to be way off-) but have not been able to confirm what the numbers are.

The arrows are in the first pic pointing at the mark. Again, there is No '99 Outback in this thread. It is an '01.

Gates belt -the arrows want to point At the mark as in this pic:

This thread has gotten sidetracked, the Outback is '01, and Might take the 307, the Forester is '99 and I only see the 304 kit for it -which is what I have. The lines on the belt will not stretch to make all 3 marks align. If I can get the left and crank lined up, when I put the right on the marks- the cam has ALOT of spring tension wanting it to spin away. This has me thinking the valves are bent in there and springs are loaded where they shouldn't be. (?) Any help greatly aprreciated.

Struggling with this Timing belt, the printed marks are not working and I'm looking to confirm tooth count between cams and crank. It's a '99 EJ25 Forester. I've done a couple of these and not had this problem, it's a Gates TCK304 223 tooth belt. Going by this recent thread, I marked up the belt in the attached photo http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/152228-got-some-strange-specs-on-timing-belt/?hl=%2Btiming+%2Bbelt It seems like if the P side cam and crank will align, when I try to hook the d side cam, it is off several teeth. The marks I made here are counted from the left mark on the belt.

Struggling with this Timing belt, the printed marks are not working and I'm looking to confirm tooth count between cams and crank. It's a '99 EJ25 Forester. I've done a couple of these and not had this problem, it's a Gates TCK304 223 tooth belt. Going by this recent thread, I marked up the belt in the attached photo http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/152228-got-some-strange-specs-on-timing-belt/?hl=%2Btiming+%2Bbelt It seems like if the P side cam and crank will align, when I try to hook the d side cam, it is off several teeth. The marks I made here are counted from the left mark on the belt. Anyone want to help me out?

Triple sorry

Double post

I did not see that in my cross referencing. Using the 304 kit. Have any more info on this ej25d belt or can you help me with a link?

This belt is not going on with the marks aligned. When I try, the D side cam comes up way short and when I go to hook it in place, it spins past. The old belt looks longer in comparison even though it's chewed up. Is there a different version of the ej25 belt??

I could photo the marks, but the crank has spun many times, I don't think we could guess exactly when the cams stopped.

Stay tuned coma.Waiting on the kit to see what happens. When I got the covers off I found the culprit. The cog idler bearings had become shrapnel and seized. There was a pile of teeth from the belt, although the belt was not broken.

Looks Great! Do the wheels have deep offset or is it the adapters that push them out?

Thanks Montana, I was struggling to figure out how to get the vc's off, plugs out or do a compression test on this thing- decided changing the belt is going to be the fastest way to know...