subarurx yo

well this is strange, but decided i would take the thermostat out and try again, and i have no signs of a bhg and stays cool, no steam or coolant loss,the torque sequence i forgot but it was the one i researched and every one said it was the proper way, i saw a thread that (general disorder) posted in that he said when it gets hot the head can slightly warp, causing coolant to escape

i changed them just to have fresh ones and the olds didn't get blown and it has white cream on the inside of oil filler cap never happend till now, and i didn't find water in oil, it also steamed while running

i bought a 92 ej22 at a yard for like 200 bucks with 178k on it so i replaced hg s with fel-pro and old ones looked good, i torqued to spec and cleaned block and head well, i put altogether and put in my rx as a swap and had a gutted thermostat for 1500mi then decided to get one which was a oriellys one, now i just found out to only use subaru ones. It was staying good temp with working fan, 50 miles later it then suddenly got very hot and blew the hg with steam out the oil fill tube and blowing all coolant into overflow. I did this swap to avoid these issues. Could just using non-subaru thermostats cause this, any is there any special tricks while doing hg s, or? , its sad my ea82t that was abused held up longer:(

they both are turbo ones with 3.7, thanks for the input

i love the d/r awd, but its sadly going down hill. it sounds like i have metal flinging around in it and can hear a rough sound like bearings while cruising and excessive input shaft play:horse:. i have a push button 4wd tranny from turbo wagon, and im wondering if it would be a bolt on fit, both have 3.7 rear diffs, or is a lot of internal parts same to fix the awd one?

well i just tested one of the black with yellow stripped wires labeled injector ground according to the chart you gave me (f47 24/25 i think ) at the ecu plug, not ecu itself i tested one of the to the injector and got resistance in the wiring and the other didn't so im guessing i have a break in connection. i have power at the injector on ignition, but its not grounding:horse:

ok ill probably get a new when i save up a little for one, not having a o2 wont hurt motor right? because ive put almost 200 miles on it but now my #1 injector ground doesnt have resistance on the manifold harness so i gotta figure that out

i dont really feel like spending the at least 50 bucks for a new oxygen sensor and EVERY out of about 10 ejs at the wrecking yard has whole front exhuast removed with o2 so i was curious if its safe to use one off a different car and if so, any ideas? or are used o2s not a good idea

it works now:D

ok thanks ill try that and see what happends

my bad lol i dont have idiot light hooked up since i couldnt figure out which wire to hook to and figured i didn't need it since i have a guage

yep alt. is bad lights went very dim and engine stalled and wouldnt start up. i tested volts on the alternator where the big white wires connect and 8.2v at idle and about 6v at higher rpms so gonna have oreillys test tomorrow to be positive and get a 96-99? one and convert connector for higher amps

i do believe my alternator is working, i used a volt meter and connected to thhe batt. and the volts slowly climb between 12 and 13v

ok , and thanks again for all the help.

ive searched and cant seem to find a diagram showing where the volt guage, temp, and vss is, out of the two round plugs for the guages, im finishing my ej swap, i already have it running, its a 87 rx

i have a rx with front and rear disk brakes, so what is all required to swap to 5-lug. i have easy access to early legacys if those will work

ya i may do that in the long run

is it just the turbos?, perhaps i could single turbo it?

i found a ad on craigslist for a ej20 twin turbo motor that has everything and its disassembled but its in good shape he claims i was wondering if theirs any major differences between it and a ej22 na besides heads and turbos of course, i am in the process of swapping ej22 in my rx but ej20tt sounds nice also

i know that knowone recomended it but i welded the holes shut and drilled new ones i tack welded the template and drilled in between the welds and it turned out ok it did take a while due to dulling the bit 15 times but i wanted to see if it could be done

ive checked the prices on the endmills and theyre way out of my budget, so im unsure what to do

where's the easiest place to get the endmill? As I will probably go that route

im swapping to ej and i was wondering what kind of cast it is since i will be welding the holes and redrilling since i only found one shop that would mill for $120 and thats too much and a place told me 50 bucks for a dremal bit. so i was thinking i could do it at school, there isnt a mill but we got mig tig and stick welders. any suggestions?