ivans imports

look for dented pan the soiloniods are very close to bottom and if pan is bumped i can damage the soiinionlds if the ligt stays on means it sees somting electricly wrong have had problems with the ground on top of intake on right side top not making a good conection thiss is the engine and trans main ground verry important make shure it is vary clean and tight

the idle ciurcts in theese carbs are realy bad for pluging up teardown the carb and clean the idle ciruct out sometimes a good rpm and put your hand over the top of carb a cupple times will pull the junk through idle circut ps brat boy looks like a good power plant just get him ti spin the tranny shaft and good to go lol

i rebiuld alot of standard trans and gd is right its diffacult to the point if you have to ask you shouldent do it i had to set my press up specificaly for theese trans pressing apart the main shaft and pinion shaft if very diffacult to do and seting them up after is hard to do the rest just falls together i use the posi out of a 88 rx with the crown and pinion from a 96 outback to get a 4.44 posi for my race buggy but i run auto box the diffs are fairly interchangable some differance in the size of bolts on crown gear and axle out puts but that posi is very tough it breaks the axle outputs before any diff trubbles i call those the axle fuse i run a 31 paddle tire anyway those diffs are gold if you can find one buy it cause if they know what they have they will never sell it i have one extra and i wouldent sell it for a 1000$ cause its that rare up here

has taken me a while to figure out why the subaru factory parts are so expsensive in canada they ship them to vancouver from japan truck them from vancouver to toronto and then when i order the parts in kelowna they ship it back across the country by truck or plane no wonder its 70% more than in the usa good job baseing your parts wharehouses off population base subaru canada

remeber its a low budget job the coustomer dosent what to spend the money to make it right some days i have to bite my tounge and let it go still had no check engine light when it left and had no calls back to tell me it came on they just whanted a cheap moter that whould make there rusty outback go agian if it was mine diferent story but customer is always right round here 8out of ten cars have check engine lights on because people are just to poor to spend money on sensors to just make light go out when the car runs ok drives me nuts i have ten calls a week on check engine lights when i tell them needs a konck senser and its 350$ they dont seem to care about the light anymore subaru parts are grossly over priced here eg water pump from subaru dealer for 99 ej moter 295 $ timing belt 285$ wires 175 $ filler spout for gas tank 265$ it sucks that parts are so exspensive people just cant afford it a outback 2.5 d rebiuld costs over 5000$ for me to do it right so 800$ for a good used moter even with check engine light is still way better for them i will pm you when the light turns on just for fun will c how long it takes

are local subaru dealer sells what they call a half gasket set is ment for when they change one piston out comes with all the gaskets to do one side of the engine i get two of those is cheaper than full set

planed a block half yesterday the # 4 barrel was 3 thow lower on bottom side than rest of block no way it ever whould have sealed it seems the barrels end up sitting lower than the rest of the deck hight think its from people doing poor headgasket jobs dam orbital grinders

i belive the 97 uses roller hydrolic lifters non addjustabble when they tick i remove the lifter bank and dissasembble the lifters and push the check balll on bottom of lifter in while blowing air trough the oil hole i find bitts of sillacon and metal in them after that they stop ticking for some reason that type of valve train is bad for thiss problem i have also found the front crank seal cracked and pulling air into the oil pump airates the oil and makes them tick

no test stations here air care hasent got here yet anthing go's as long as it not to loud

run in the nwmra races the only four cly mud racer in b class

we get lots of miles out of the subaru replacement gaskets as long as you dont trust the coating on them and coat it your self with a sealing compound i use avionic form a gasket just to isolate the gasket from coolant and oil thiss works well have done over 100 engines thiss way no combacks oh and i plane the heads myself to get perfect surfaces you can realy c the damage to the head surface when you plane it

actualy i used a 96 standard model 2.2 used its engine wire harness the differance is in there somewhere cause no check engine light at all with no egr we put about 30kms on it and ran for an hour or better no check engine light i think that the 2.2 engine harness takes care of the lack of egr ive done thiss swap many times but never with the exact year of engine we ushaly use the outback engine harness on the 2.2 thiss one matched exactly even though 96 leg 5 speed to 96 outback auto pluged right in

if the coil pack is dirty will arc to the holdown bolts on coil [once it makes a track it will always follow the path of least resistance] take off the coilpack clean it and check for tracks from posts on it look like white or grey lines inside coil boots

emitions tests ????? what is that no smog control here howbout a canaidain cars ecu that does not have an egr or a plate like the ea81 uses between the header and the head with a port bung on it

just installing a 96 2.2 into a 96 outback 2.5 seems to fitt better than the original moter very few differances in the manifoilds and wire harness plugs right in bitt of diff no egr on 2.2 will sort that out i dont find mutch power differance and the reliability is way better a used 2.2 goes for 800$ and a headgasket job on a 2.5 go's for 2000$ + it just makes sense to put the 2.2 in theese cars should have came with it in first place have put 2.2 s from 89-97 into theese outbacks some things are different on eraly engines but the interchangeabily is very good have no unhappy customers with thiss convertion even the 2.2 with the twin cam heads works good gets rid of that weak 2.5 small rod journal engine witch has realy weak rod berrings that are phisicaly to small for applacation

if you can axses directly above the head of bolt inside the car and use a small hole saw make a hole above the bolt and come down from above with a good socket to hold the top side or cut them off and put a new bolt with a nut the welded nuts shoudent be to hard to break loose

the long bolts of the xmembers of a newer legacy are good make shure the end of bolts are marked grade 9 or higher belive they are 11.125 or 12.125 thread pitch

thoose blocks are very hard to find up here i get a 1000$ just for a short block i bet it could be bored but whould be a waste of a rare block i only have one and is mint we whant realy low budget moters the bored 2.2 to 2.5 engine cost under a 100 $ to biuld for me right down to its reused mains and head gaskets remember short life race moter if we get a week its doing realy good most are just in race buggys for are ice race track

thiss one is just for experament porposess i like the long stroke engine for mud dragster i biuld the engines for my group of subaru buddys to wail on best wat to test them out i have biult my own subaru engine machine shop here and do all my own borring and planing in house i have probly ten or 15 ej 2.2 and 2.5 cores to play with whanted to know who else plays around with the enternals of theese engines

at the subaru dealer you can buy just the gears separatly if you whant make shure you change the shaft seal

the preshure regulators like to get rusted up internaly and dont work that well also sounds like mabee one tooth off on disstibutor or vacume leak might be different mas airflow sensor turbo to non also check the wire conector on water temp sensor is bad for geting damaged and cotrols most of your cold warmup make sure that the two diagnostic conectors are disconected unless seting timing theese conectors when conected will keep the engine at 0 timing when pluged in

we are running a ej2.5 turbo on propane simpifyed the wire harnes down to crank sensor cam senser ig mod and knock senser thats it it runs a mixer of a chevy v8 work very good no problems and seems to make more power have run a deul feul setup on a ez3.0 turbo six cly worked good but had to use a very large mixer of 440 dodge to get enuff feul that moter had no rpm limit reved to 8500 rpms was crazy powerfull and flick aswitch and propane is off and runs on gas the only differance was the propane had no rev limit and i think it supplyed more feul than gas could but was very reliabble and resanabley safe mind you we brke two pistons but they are very week pistons in that engine

i change the water pump timimg belt and coged idler all as a set evry time i do anything with timing belt the coged idler do'es real time and sees way more miles than any others and fails evry day have had two engines just thiss week bent 16 valves because of this idler no ej moter is amune to thiss even if you just change it and nothing else have had them failed under 100000kms had a 07 with 78000kms bad coged idler this part is an engine killer the other pullys are smooth so the belt could slip across if seized and whould give warning the coged one seizes and rips the teeth of the belt

axle nut go's very tight 200+ ft lbs make shure the berring retainer nut is tight the big round one in back with 4 dogs on it look at the splines on stub and drum and cone washer check all that stuff for where if the cone washer is worn down the nut will bottom before drum titens up

91 fun justy turbo 1.2 2 dr oversise 14 alumminim wheels and lightend up gets about 40 mpg and fiugre abou 1200 lbs about 110hp passes evrything my ecvtamatic one gets just a bitt better probly 45 + mpg bone stock and yes the ectv still works and i cant kill it