ivans imports

i found that there is 3 power supply wires a heavy yellow constant power a small yellow gos to fuse box for ignition power and the ecu power suppy small yellow wire comes out close to ecu we where having a problem with only powering half the circut it looks like theese wires go to same circut but they do not the wire going to fuse box has a oneway diode in it we just whent thrugh this problem i run that harness alot for some reson we have problems puting ej convertions into usa cars they have extra stuff like eletiric seat belts and power windows that like to backfeed the ecu if it dosent start instantly or the tach dosent respond power suply is wrong tach is an indacator of proper ignition function

i get alot that loose one side of dash lights a good whack on top of dash ushaly makes it come back on the bulbs are finiky but its only ever one side or other but rest of interior dash lights work

i have customers that have over a 100000kms on theese engines and still no noise i find that coated pistons just loose the coatings and start slapen this method is cheap and seems to hold up for long time here in BC canada pistons are 300$ each as are parts suplyers realy suck so this is the only cost efetive way to fix problem

heres how it works or [the problem ] the oil pump has a seal on a rotating shaft that drys up and alows air bubbles to get in to lifters and they can not pump up on air so they tick i have never seen a bad lifter before in like a 1000 ea82s but every oil pump seal i c is toast change the seal noise is gone also the oil pump releff valve is in the top of head plunger with a spring this dumps of the oil preshure across the top of cam theese springs get week so i stretch them just a bit to get better oil preshure

i have been knulling the pistons on all the engines i rebiuld to stop piston slap with 100% results the engines run dead silent and smoother i even do it when i rebiuld them it makes them verry tight takes longer to breakin but they last longer and dont slap ever agian think the knock senser likes it silent

check this out i have a machine called a piston knurller puts a xhatch on the skirts of pistons to make them grow i do it as a curtisy when i do head gaskets they come in rattleing and leave silent i even do it when i rebiuld the engines makes them so tight that they are hard to turn the breakin is longer but they run verry well its the only way i was ablle to stop the noise i'm on my 10-12 moter ive done that way no combacks and all running silent still

dont put that stuff in anything reacts to rubber and wrecks your hoses and wp just change the gasket nothing is going to replace the crap coating on gasket make shure you surface heads

the mark on crank gear sets all the pistons at the same hight so there is no chance of interferance when installing belt u must use the marks on belt to set it who cares where tdc is there is no distributor all 3 lines go strait up dont use the arrows as they are for valve ajusting porposes not for timing

i put a h6 3.0 in my race buggy we put turbo on it whent like stink broke one piston and had to replace it was over 160 bolts and tons of crap i made cardboard templates to keep bolts organized the timing marks where strait forward the links that are diferent coluors lined up with the marks on cams when its right it looks right all marks should line up

have good lites tails and hatch have 3 radios dont think this model had a rear wiper at all is a DL model 2wd 4 speed will try and get some pics on here thiss afternoon

looks like pettys avitar same gold coulor

its fwd no 4x4 the rear is absolotly spotless perfect lights and hatch i need the winshild and dash for brat rest is up for grabs interior is good but i may need front seats i will try and get some pics on here for you guys it rus like new its a shame to break her but frame is rusted out

ps mud dragster runs a 31 paddle tire so doubt its your tires

i torque the ************ outa thoose by design you cant over toruqe it but you shure can under do it on my mud dragster we put them to a min of 200 ft lbs and after 6 years of mud racing still same berring i drilled and put in grease zirks on knuckles to alow for service

there is a oring behind the cam seal where the housing for cam seal bolts up they crack and then leak change the cam seal and oring at same time i do it as a set 2 cam seals 2 cam orings 1 front crank seal two oilpump orings one oil pump brown seal -this seal is the one that makes lifters tick so is very important to cange this one and the orings on oil pump theese parts cost about 60$ at local subaru dealer

only seen one stuck water pump in 500 cars and it overheated in 3 min siting but made no sound and did not leak

its the idler bering on the water pump has teeth on it it do'es real time and is a very poor berring i change all 3 pices when i do a timing belt they go as a set [water pump timing belt coged idler ] i have had at least 15 of that idler failed in the last year all the way from 91-07 make shure the replacment is a dubble berring type some of the cheaper ones are single berring and not so good

ps is a very hard trans to rebiuld diff is very hard to set if its been messed with throw it away and start with one thats never been touched takes me 4 hrs to r@r the front diff belive its 4.44 [dont mess with factory settings ]

i fix alot of center clutch packs that are still ok but not tight enuff if its loose when it trys to go awd it clunks or shudders the clutch pac has to be set verry tight almost 0 clerance the h6 has very good tourqe so it can rip out a center diff clutch easyaly

the piston is broke between the compreshion rings verry comen if over reved rev it with the oil cap off and c if it blows smoke at the same time that # of cly is fireing

scraping out a 77 wagon with 23000km on it anyone need parts

put a 2.2 t short block in it works better and is way tougher probly find one in pick and pull

send me the moter i will fix it proper its all i do all day evry day

check timming belts are timed corectly

the clicking you here is the turbo solinod cycling normal check thet the hot wire in the mass is not broken they like to break its absoluty critical that mass air works properly remember it weighs air have had thiss problem before there are some models have extra wires on tp switch somtimes fu and have had the internal screws on ecu come loose and short ecu common for conectors at ecu to get pulled on and not conect well at ecu but to fix it proper put a turbo legacy 2.2 in it fixed those dam ea8ewwwws from 85 -88 subaru couldent even make them run good