NorthWet

The carburetor gasket is "wet", but that would only allow water into the intake. The milkshake oil is indicative of a blown HG.

I read a post like that recently, too. Personally, I can't see the logic in it. The big killer of ATs is degraded fluid, so I can't think of any real-world downside of giving it fresh, clean fluid.

Skip is absolutely right: I forgot about the downside of fuel economy. Sort of a given with automatics. C'mon, though. Two out of three ain't bad!

Like Skip said, the motor is the same, just swap manifold with all of its fittings and connectors. Not like Skip said, the automatic isn't THAT bad... my daily driver right now has the auto (son is learning to drive, and I am his test dummy). I am actually pretty impressed with it connected to an SPFI engine. The auto on my wife's GL-10 works out fine, too. Just not the fun and the pep of rowing your own gears.

I told you not to drink that stuff. Beats me why you think it is better than Diet Mt. Dew.

These are not lifters in the pushrod sense; they are stationary pivot points that otherwise are similar to hydraulic lifters. They are not designed to rotate. I think that the idea that "there is no place for the oil to go", similar to holding a finger over a straw, is fallacious, as the oil has to get into the HLA somehow, which means it displaces something, which means the something has to escape someplace. "Some" argument, eh? The oil pressure is applied into the bore into which the HLA slips, and since it is a slip fit there is opportunity (requirement???) for the oil to pass around the HLA body and out into the cam carrier for drainback. BTW, I did verify that there is only one oil hole in the HLA body. To clarify some more, I am not looking for the cause of HLA ticking, but wonder if some things that we do somewhat regularly (HGs) might contribute to tickings because we do not orient the HLAs in a particular direction. The devil is in the details...

No worries. It was I who was trying to be the smarta... er, smartalec. I tried to shock people like moosens (Hi Paul!), but instead got people who were really trying to help. I'm a BAD boy... :-p

Well, everybody knows that Mountain Dew is the preferred fuel for all creative computer programmers. And as we creative computer programmers mature, we realize that we don't need all that sugar in our brain fuel, so we go to low-/non-sugared fuel, i.e. Diet Mountain Dew. So, yes, I guess it is just we ELITE that drink Diet Mt. Dew. So maybe it is a prize for being such an informed and loyal consumer.

That wouldn't make it Dyslexia, but rather Old-Timer's Disease!

Just because one is FWD and the other is AWD doesn't meant that individual internals, especially the 90% that share functions between the trannies, would be different. (Not saying that they are the same, just that the reasoning doesn't follow. ) If these are both by JATCO, looking at similar power holding capabilities, it is possible that the various clutchpacks might be the same.

Bump

I guess I should have checked the view count to see if I was being shunned or simply ignored. I was just kidding about the CVCC engine, et al. I was fishing for some weird responses from those that know me. I guess that they don't really care after all... In the short term, I will probably drop a spare EA81 into it and go from there. Seriously considering an EJxx engine for my wife, though. She really wants/needs an automatic tranny, and the EA71 would be a little to little... at least without some "goodies".

"Spider" would make it MPFI.

Bump for the Friday Night Crowd.

Probably a failed headgasket. Common thing to happen due to age, and thrown in a slight overheat and its HG failure time. It is not very difficult to fix youself if you are mechanically inclined, but expensive to have a professional do it. (Expensive as in "More than the market value of the car".)

Every post that I have read says that the ECU is the same unit between turbo and non-turbo MPFI. IF that is true (I think that I could verify if needed), then the injectors are essentially the same (unless there are fitment variations; again, I could check). The turbo heads could be used, but you would need to plug the turbo oil-feed line, the oil drainback tube, and the turbo-coolant feed line. The turbo cams also seem to be "milder" with less overlap (and I would assume less duration). The intake should be the same, except for the piece between MAF and TB. Regarding the pistons, unless you are getting a rebalance, I would probably take the whole crank/rod/piston assembly from the donor, as those should have been balanced as an assembly.

Well, first off, sticking a screwdriver into an engine is similar to sticking something sharper than an elbow into your ear: It is a really BAD idea. Second, it is pointless, as he knows where TDC is; he just needs to determine which is compression-stroke. And if you have a hole in your number-1 piston, it might be because somebody used a sharp, hard, foreign object to check for TDC. And scooby, I got your "extended" set right here!

Should be easy, assuming that you are staying MPFI. That requires using MPFI heads (either turbo or non). The pistons are the only engine part that are significantly different; the turbo's non-distributor side head as extra external fittings, and the case has an extra, central PCV fitting. Need a y-pipe for the exhaust system to replace crossover(uppipe) and downpipe. And new intake boot to run between MAF and throttle body. If you are using an SPFI, then things are a little more complicated. *edit - I was incorrect about PCV: MPFI (turbo or non) seem to have the PCV fitting. end edit *

I know it. I am very "up" on digital communication. :-p

26cm (10.25 inches) as measured on my "new" 79. This is from front edge of front-most bracket to the base of the vertical backwall.

bump

You can also use a digital compression tester, if you didn't want to take your fancy HF system out of its case. :-p You can use your finger, or a loved-ones finger, on the spark plug hole and turn the engine until you feel the pressure. I guess you will go with ShawnW's excellent suggestion, though, eh?

Other details to make sure that are correct: Dished washer facing the proper direction (convex outwards), and torque set to correct amount, rather than the too-low figure of 109(?) in many manuals.

Well, if you want to disturb the oil sealing on your valve cover, it is easy. Pull off the valve cover on the 1-3 side, crank the engine over to the "0" mark, and see if the rockers on the 1-3 cylinder are loose or depressing the valves. If they are loose, then you have TDC on the compression stroke for cylinder#1.