NorthWet

Not the best way to solicit responses... You have to understand what produces torque, and its correlation to horsepower, to understand the last part of your post. If you want, I can give you a mini-lecture, but the basic is that torque is strongly related to displacement (effective displacement in the case of supercharging). Using newer pistons won't get you what you are looking for. First off, EJ22 pistons will not fit in an EJ18. Second, the moly coating does not buy you much. Most of the "improvements" quoted are from much more involved changes... Including making the engine damage itself if the timing belt breaks.

I will be reposting my free service a little later, once I have had time to verify that I have replacements ready to ship.

OP: Sorry for not getting back to you in a timely manner regarding repairing your clock. The connector is accessible, as others have said, by tilting the glovebox down and outwards, The connector is typically wrapped in sticky foam at the back left of the cavity, about 2/3rds up. The best way, in my experience, to find the wires is to unseat the clock from the dash and tug at the wire harness on the back while feeling the wires at the left back of the glovebox cavity. It is there, it is accessible, and annoying but doable. Something to note is that the Loyale uses a a different connector than do the pre-Loyales. (There may be some crossover a little earlier that I do not know about.) The Loyale takes a 4-position connector while the earlier EA82s take a 6-position connector with only 4 positions populated. (XTs may be some exception: They are mounted differently and I have never pulled one.) The resistor is a 2 watt 75 ohm resistor. It is used to drop the voltage from 12+V to 5V, and dissipates far too much heat for its rating and mounting. A second resistor drops the 5V down to around 2V to be used by the display. If either one of those, or a couple other parts, have a bad solder joint (Can't tell if they are good just by looking at them), then the display won't function. I have started repairing clocks again, having gotten a decent supply of resistors, a couple spare clocks, and the time to start up again. I am also mounting the resistors somewhat differently, using the entire inch or so of leads on each end to act as heat dissipators.

From what I understand from my betters, the metal reinforced gasket was introduced sometime during the production run, and obsoleted the previously used rubber-only gasket.

BTW, the reported failure is a result of an electrical fault within the solenoid itself (either a short or open circuit) or its wiring, rather than any outward physical fault. (But it is still tough to find a 30 year old plastic part that won't break on you.)

Plenty of info on this site about both the purge solenoid and the EGR solenoid... very similar devices and very similar failures. Try doing a SEARCH for "purge solenoid". The ports that the hoses attach to are plastic and tend to snap off, so others have tried to locate more durable alternatives. IIRC, there is a metal-ported Toyota unit that somebody found.

I should have a dozen or so. If Subaru will take longer than Snail-mail, it might be worth having me mail a pair to you.

The compression figures that you typed in your other thread (0-35psi on 3cyls, IIRC) are unlikely to be due to block/lower-end issues... unless there is a hole in your pistons. Probably valves hanging open or rockers fallen loose. Pull the heads and have a look-see. (edit: fixed typo: "hole" vs "whole". Stupid fingers...)

Pretty certain that is used for something else. (Though I can't think of what would take 3 or 4... you could look on the FelPro package's contents list.) The proper gaskets, which I have never personally seen in a FelPro set, are flat metal washers that are coated in rubber.

The early 90's ('90-94, I think) R4AX-ELs are all pretty much the same. There are minor differences in plate count/thickness, but mostly with Turbo and SVX versions. Terms like "4EAT" and "4AT" are street-terms for the tranny. The "MANUAL" button really doesn't make it one thing or another, and it is not really "manual" anything. (It is a simplistic form of traction control.) "Liberty"s are what the Legacy is called in other parts of the world. You can try to find "Section 4" of the FSM for your Legacy which has the rebuild information for the automatic transmission. (The FSM comes in multiple volumes, each volume being one or more Sections.) If you can still buy the FSM new, it will be very expensive. You can buy used ones, but it might take a while to locate them. Ebay offers bootleg FSMs on CD; quality varies. From what I have been told, the ATSG manual is a better reference for any AT rebuild. You are already going to be spending several hundred dollars in parts, so $30 more to do it right might be a good investment.

Mis-posted. My apologies.

Not an endorsement for this vendor, but might give you some insight: http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/23400.html Other vendors offer the ATSG manual, as well as complete assortment of rebuild parts for your R4AX-EL.

No disrespect meant towards you. I've had a need/hate relationship with Chilton's since the '70s: Lots of pages, but I could never bring myself to rely on their information. Meh... my problem. In any information, it seems hard to tease out what was available in which market. The US has a rather different market than the rest of the world, one where we don't heavily tax engine displacement and where gasoline costs less than $8/gallon. (That sounded preach-y/lecture-y; sorry) IIRC, there is/was a member in Israel that had a 1600 in what we would consider an EA82 model (but I don't remember if it was an OHC or EA71). In some markets, the "simplicity" of points-distributor might be attractive. Or, either the distributor or valve covers were swapped in. C'mon! Pop off the covers and end the mystery.

That's cute... trusting Chilton's...

The ignitor is grounded by its mounting to the coil bracket. The coil bracket is grounded to the body... but sometimes this grounding is flakey, so running a separate ground to the bracket ensures that this is not causing your problem. How are you determining that you have no spark? From one of the plug leads or from the wire between coil and distributor cap?

There seem to be some references to the EA71 being made until around 1994. From what I understand, on EA81 engines the pushrods are different material/construction for the Hydro motors; you could pull a valve cover take a look. Also, references were made to JDM EA71s here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/21849-ea-71-head-interchange-question/?do=findComment&comment=178363

Wow the filter setup looks... incredible. Not only does it intake hot engine room air, but it also does a sharp turn just prior to the hot-wire flow sensor. Is that a dry filter, or is it an oiled- K&N filter? Oil and hot-wire MAF don't mix well. That coolant leak is most likely from that little hose right above it, the one that runs from a tube (air-vent) on the top of the block to the T-stat housing. Very common problem.

Axles should be interchangeable between the two cars. Turbo 5-speeds and 4-speed automatics use a different inner spline count on the front; all other axles share same fitment. Still, it is nice to have spare axles.

I am 99% sure that they do not. (I can't look at one right now to be totally sure.)

One of the things I enjoy about the Subarus is their similarity to LEGOs: Parts tend to be mix and match. Usually plenty of room to get at stuff (though you are likely to find the bellhousing nut on the engine's left side difficult to get at due to the tranny cooler lines being in the way... but you already have a plan to rectify that). As long as you have that donor car, the swap should be relatively easy. Speaking of donor car, I posted in your parts thread about you hanging on to the rear diff, as the GL10's diff is a 3.7 ratio and the 5-speed will be a 3.9.

The turbo is not a very efficient one, and doesn't tend to go positive on the boost until 3k RPM or so, and doesn't hit its max 7-ish psi until much higher RPM. Unlikely to hear any proper turbo flow noises while driving slow. Maybe the cooling fan cycling? Or, might be an exhaust leak? (The uppipe tends to crack at the turbine inlet flange, but this is usually noticeable under the hood at idle.)

The story makes plenty of sense. Nothing special about the differentials; they do break, and they would not like being run dry.. If it wasn't a tooth snapping off of either the ring or pinion gear then it might not be too scary sounding to drive. If your set on a 5-speed swap, just do it and don't look back. But it is a bit of work if the only thing that you are bothered by is a bad tranny. The only reason I asked about being sure is that a lot of non-Subaru mechanics mis-diagnose problems. Cheers!

The popular view is that the stock pressure and flow are not great enough to warrant/benefit-from a BOV/BPV. What kind of sound are you hearing? There are some common issues that could make odd noises.

I think the "after" is relative... especially since "cone filter" was typed. There are no diverter valves on a stock EA82T engine. No need for one. If someone put on a simple dump valve (BOV), then it will mess up the mixture due to dumping metered air.

I had thought that the larger tunnel came out in 88. Wouldn't be the first time I was mistaken...