NorthWet

Others with FAR more experience will chime in soon, but... ...my first thought is tensioner bearing: It seems to be a common source of noise and trouble. It might also be the tensioner itself. Did it feel OK when you SLOWLY compressed the piston back into the cylinder? Did you remember to pull the lock pin out of the tensioner?

Atlantic Richfield Corporation, currently a division of BP (British Petroleum) that brought you the Gulf of Mexico well blowout a while back. They are cut-rate gas on the West Coast, and one of the first to incorporate ethanol. They are maligned by people who enjoy maligning (and others that have had bad experiences). Where I live, all of the gasoline comes out of the same tankers from the same refinery. I have a different view of brand differences...

Truly, follow MilesFox's directions. He also has a series of youtube videos that walk you through common repairs, "The Art of Subaru Maintenance".

You state that you have "verified that I have the timing correct"... are you talking valve timing? How have you checked for spark? For fuel? Did you replace one timing belt or both? If you do have compression, fuel, and spark, then it will start. One of these isn't as it seems.

An additional thought: If you need periodic, acute cooling (pulling up grades as contrasted to flat cruising), you might want to consider an "open" heat sink. Run a length of metallic (preferably copper) tubing through a volume of unpressurized water. This will have minimal effect below the boiling point of the water (other than to slow down tranny warm-up), but will sink tremendous quantities of heat as the water vaporizes. The vented, total-loss system keeps things simple, water is cheap, and you are no worse off when the water is all vaporized than if you didn't have it at all. Varying the amount of immersed tubing and/or allowing the total loss coolant to run at a slight pressure would allow some control over ATF temp.

+1

The EA82 ECU is useless. There are some really good writeups on the swap procedure. Numchux's is probably a good starting point: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/67098-please-read-ej-swap-write-up-ver-20-now-in-pdf-form/

Regarding the axle, although you may have torqued it down well on install, it might be worth your time to recheck it. Is the dished washer installed correctly (convex side facing out, so that the outer rim touches the outer bearing race and the inner hole touches the nut first)? Check, then retorque the axle nut.

The analogy (IMHO) is accurate enough to mean that a larger pipe will provide less resistance. Anything that reduces the flow rate (the current) will also decrease the drag. And even better, the change is not linear but exponential. Doubling the flow rate should cause a quadrupling of the flow drag; halving the flow rate by doubling the cross-sectional area (not diameter) should decrease flow drag to approximately one-fourth of original. My personal desire is to replace the discrete radiator with distributed tube (or tube-on-panel) cooling.

You have a valid point that the extra tubing will help dissipate heat. I also think that, given proper sizing of tubing, flow drag will not be a major concern. I do, however, think that ignoring the effects of flow drag is not a good idea. Taken to boundary conditions (reductio ad absurdum, if you like), too much restriction will cause the flow to stall, and before that the pump will cavitate. Again, I agree that it is not likely to happen in this case, just good to keep in mind that horizontal- and closed-systems are affected by plumbing design. Cheers!

Yes, you can install the belt just to turn the cam sprocket. This is OK, will not cause any engine problems. There are simpler ways of doing it, but none simpler enough to be worth more than a minute or two deciding between them. Your way will work just fine.

That will work (emphasis on "work"), but it might be easier just to turn the cam sprocket by hand. I can do it with just my hands (though my covers are off, giving me better grip), or you can use a pin-wrench. You can make a make-shift pin-wrench by using a couple screwdrivers through the holes on its face, and a bar in-between the screwdriver shafts to turn the sprocket.

Both temp and fuel read high when malfunctioning, or just temp? If both are high, I would look for a pinched/chafed gauge harness: To me, the symptoms sound like both wires are shorting to ground on the sender-side of the wiring. Most likely place for both simultaneously would be near the gauge cluster.

The length and diameter of the plumbing DOES matter, even in a horizontal, closed system. You get flow drag from the plumbing, which increases with length, reduced diameter and/or increase in flow rate. Think of it in the same was as electrical wiring: The longer the wiring run, the more resistance the circuit has. so the more motive force (voltage, pressure) is needed to maintain the same flow rate. Whether it will be a concern for the OP's situation is less clear.

You are welcome. I have yet to see an aftermarket head set that has these... at least these correct ones.

I don't think that this is a simple question to answer. Although presslab has a point regarding thermodynamics, it does not take into account imperfect thermal transfers to the cooling media (air). More heat energy is transferred to ambient air by a hot body than from a cooler body. I'd have to think this through properly, but my gut says that placing the ATF cooler near the hot side of the radiator (inlet from engine) would have the least negative effect on cooling capacity. Ideally, though, it would be better to have a separate cooling air stream for the ATF cooler. SVX folks often put theirs in the space between tire and bumper.

I personally preferred the 1200, but the B210 was a pretty reliable beast. It is certainly not a speed demon, especially with an auto.

It is located on the side of the tranny (I think tranny-right side, but can't be sure at the moment) just barely above the ATF-pan and parallel to the ground. It looks something like an oil-pressure sender, except that there is a vacuum hose sticking out the end of it. If it is leaking, you can pull off the vacuum hose and check if the inside of the hose is wet with ATF. The vacuum modulator is located below the ATF level in the pan, and ATF will leak out of the tranny if you remove the modulator.

Yes, the 3.0 uses timing chains instead of belts (to help make its form more compact). What "tune" was the original Corvair 6 (110hp, 140hp,??)

+1 on checking the spindle nut and dished washer. Often the axle doesn't seat fully in the bearing, and loosens up after driving for a while. If the dished washer is backwards, the axle won't stay seated properly.

My local dealer tends to not stock stuff like these. Sometimes a pain to wait a week.

For all intents and purposes, the EJ18 and EJ22 (given comparable years) are the same casting. The cylinder liners have different bores/wall-thickness. The parts are like Legos and swap back and forth between them. The EJ22 shortblock should be within a couple of pounds of the EJ18. The EJ18 was sort of an price-sensitive version of the EJ22. BTW, those (dry) cylinder liners are made of a material well suited for their purpose, which gives them excellent wear characteristics. They don't have to be compromised by having properties suited for structural and casting considerations as does the type of cast-iron that most US engines have used.

Per your PM, I pulled a couple seals from my stash-o-parts. For those who may need to find the part number for these specials seals, the Subaru Part Number and Description are: 13089AA010 "O Ring - CMS Case"

"Gen 3 head", as used on this forum, refers simply to a casting mark on the head. To the best of my knowledge, no one has ever identified any substantive difference in this casting versus 2 other casting-marked "versions" that preceded it. My PERSONAL theory is that the only reason they are thought to have less chance of cracking is that they were produced later in the series, and thus have less thermal cycles on them. (Newer part with fewer years and miles on it.) Mine is probably a minority view of one. And, unless you have an MPFI engine, this info isn't very useful.

The individual gear ratios I can't help you with. The internal differences, other than final drive ratio, mostly has to do with number and thickness of friction plates.