NorthWet

There are several hoses that could be providing the leak, plus the intake manifold gaskets, gaskets on the manifold coolant crossover pipe, and the t-stat housing. The common places on your engine are a little (approx. 1/8"ID) hose that runs from the t-stat housing to the top-front of the block, and the turbo coolant hose that runs from the top of the turbo center-section to the t-stat area. This latter one gets super-hot water running through it after engine shutdown, and should be checked regularly for embrittlement and/or cracking. (I have had one literally crumble into a dozen pieces when I tried to remove it.) Are sure that the front ring-and-pinion/differential are shot? Could the noise be something else? Oh, and you probably shouldn't be able to hear your turbo while driving...

That is pretty much where they put the auto-seatbelt control box on the XTs.

An 87 is unlikely to have a 4-speed auto... AFAIK, these became available in 88; almost certainly has a 3-sped auto. It might also be useful to confirm that your engine has a turbo; GL10 is more of an option designation than telling how the car is equipped.

Fahrenheit or Centigrade?

No point in changing the filter, as it doesn't have one. Just a debris screen. Lots of work for no joy.

Sorry for not responding to the crank sensor impedance, but... Do you have fuel line pressure after you first turn the ignition to "on"? (As in, Does the fuel pump do its first cycle?) If so, do "Noids" work on the EZ? If so, have you tried them to see if the injectors are getting energized?

They already came that way. Tend to die due to insufficient coolant/cooling.

This was suggested in Post #3. A more rational option, IMHO, was Post #7.

The EA82s are not junk. They are engines built for an economy car, and they have strengths and weaknesses. They are not powerhouses, but if properly maintained, they can last nearly forever.

Really and truly, tensile strength is not much of an issue here. I have never heard of anyone breaking a healthy (non-corroded) headbolt/stud in a Subaru. It is far more common to pull the aluminum threads out. Since I was going to go with non-standard studding, I was not going to worry about maintaining the original thread. 7/16". 12mm. or 1/2" rod is readily available and cheap.

Sorry, my earlier post had said "B9" when I meant to type "B7". ASTM A193 Grade B7 Chromium Molybendum steel, normally AISI 4140, heat treated to 28-32Rockwell Hardness, 125,000 PSI tensile strength, 105, 000 PSI yield. It will hold it’s strength to 1000 degrees F.

How fancy do you need your studs? I plan to get some B9 threaded rod, and cut to length. Not pretty, not ideal, but cheap and available. OOps! Typo: should have read B7 threaded rod.

A thought to check: Are the screws holding the top section of the carb to the body of the carb loose? (Not a totally random thought. The airbox cover removal prompted this Q.)

You need some people with better carb experience to join in.

I have been "blue skying" on this issue before. I hadn't considered EJ25 rods. You could also take a page out of Jeszek's book and look for piston's from alternate Makes. Nissan VG33 0.50 over pistons have looked like a possibility. IIRC they have equivalent bore, same wrist-pin size as the EA82 and about the same compression height. They are also used in the supercharged versions of that engine. Domes are kind of wonky, and they are not lower compression on the supercharged engines.

Ah... There is a difference between "not being worth rebuilding" and it being pointless to rebuild one. Unless you have a bad bearing on the crankshaft, there is no point in splitting the cases. And if there is a bad bearing, there is really no point in splitting the cases: just get a replacement engine. Unless you have a bad bearing, everything else is a relatively simple fix. Certainly simpler than a swap between engine generations.

Charcoal canister should be a non-issue. It is the big black plastic object with 3 or 4 small hoses running to it in the engine compartment near the radiator electric fan. Where was/were the fuel filter(s) that you replaced? IIRC, the object near the driver's strut tower is just a vapor separator. (All of my EA82s are FI, so are a little different.) Have you looked at your sparkplugs to see if they are sooty or gray or white? If not yet, it is useful to know whether things are too rich or too lean.

The fuel tank is vented into the charcoal canister, so no tank pressure should build up. Sometimes, with an almost empty tank, you can get a slight vacuum in the tank. My first impression from your description is a clogged fuel filter. This usually presents as idling ok, but loss of power when demanding more from the engine. (High speed, accelerating.) You did not mention any smoke issues, or smell of fuel from the exhaust or sooty tailpipe/bumper area, so I am guessing that the engine isn't dying from a stuck choke or other too-rich condition.

Is there a particular reason why this causes you concern?

Yes, lots of people have tranny stubs that can be moved around. Yes, lots of people have noises coming from their axles. The 2 are not necessarily connected. Gloyale and MilesFox both gave good information.

To address the original question, I have heard good things about "Freeze12". Personally, I have used an R134a retrofit kit with good success. (This kit used R12-compatible oil, as the usual R134a's oil will make you sorry that you tried it.)

Like MilesFox typed, it is common to have some looseness at the tranny stubs.. Another common thing is for the axle to get loose in the hub splines, either from the dished washer being installed incorrectly, or from the axle not being fully seated when they were installed. Check the dished washer and retorque the axle nut and see if this makes a difference.

Totally agree that there is no need to do anything more than unbolt the compressor bracket from the engine and move it aside. (I tend to put mine in the battery tray area.) Whenever I have done something T-belt related, I have moved the compressor this way; I think that at least one style of bracket/tensioner requires this.

He is a Jack-donkey. Why try to impress him???

+1 To elaborate, I think that a misunderstanding exists. Either the mechanic did not communicate properly, or you were misled... or maybe something inbetween. Seizure due to oil starvation would not just go away with a new timing belt; it is also unlikelty that a seized engine would snap a timing belt. The usual scenario is that the belt breaks because it needed replacing, or a tensioner/idler seizes, and either snaps a belt or makes it so the engine appears seized because the belt doesn't want to move.