NorthWet

To amplify this, the "TBI" in the ads that you are looking at is Throttle-Body Injection (TBI), which is the industry-standard name for what we usually call Single-Point Fuel Injection (SPFI). You should look for the TBI heads.

Before you get too excited or worried, see if the sender will thread in. My comments were to forewarn, not to scare. The one time I had to get an adapter, I think I got it at either a good auto parts place or a "speed shop" (specialized in hot-rod stuff).

Is it slipping (some power transfer) or acting like it is in Neutral?

Let's take 2 steps back: Where did the shop say the crack was? Non-turbo heads rarely crack. A common "crack" that shops winge about is between the 2 valve seats in the combustion chamber. It is NORMAL for it to have a crack there. As long as it is not too deep, it is ignored.

Unless it specifically says it fits, you may have to get an adapter. Just be forewarned, and don't force the threads. (<- tough advice to explain, since the threads are probably pipe threads, tapering, and are meant to get tight.

Gauges are matched to their senders. Trying to use the original, possibly bad sender does not seem like a good idea. Be aware that the thread size/pitch on the sender may not match the oil pump port.

From '88 XT FSM: On the 4-pin connector to the distributor, the Black wire has the position signal, and the White wire has the reference signal.

That should work fine... if you don't lose count like I do.

Most turbos have the 3AT automatic, which does have 23 splines. 88-90 (IIRC) turbos could be had with the 4EAT 4-speed. Sometimes, parts computers can be worse than useless...

If the speedo cable or the contacts at the base of the speedo gauge are not working, then there is no vehicle speed signal. BUT, I do not think that this signal is used by the ECU. It is used by cruise control, trip computer, and as one of the VSS inputs to the TCU for 4EAT models. Maybe some other little things.

The vehicle speed sensor is a set of points in the speedometer head. I do not know offhand if the ECU does anything other than pass this on to the cruise control and other options.

25-spline. All 4EATs on EA82-platforms are 25-spline.

Too far to lend a hand, but... You don't have to remove the engine: I just needs to be shifted forward enough to get at the clutch. Also, are you sure that the clutch is truly gone, and not an issue with cable adjustment, or hill-holder/cable seized?

+1. The outside joint attaches to the stub/spindle in the hub just like it does at the diff end. Knock out the roll pin, slide it off of the splines. Scoobiedubie: Sometimes, you just need your car to work, like in order to drive to get parts. And New Jersey is not the PNW, Subaru parts wise.

When you are new to something, sometimes it takes a while to figure out what is relevant and what isn't. On a forum like this, sometimes it takes a while, and a few mistakes, to figure out who is knowledgeable and reliable, and who is not. Moosens is one of THE experts on Historic Subarus; He is certainly the most vocal expert. Excellent resource for knowledge and sourcing parts. (He also seems to be a pretty good guy, for an East-Coaster). I think that his post count must have rolled over or something, as it should be well into 5 digits. As well as the members in Montana, there are quite a few members in the Coeur d'Alene/Spokane area. Welcome, and good luck!

Mikaleda has a point about the spider gears... Probably negligible, but why risk it? Pop it into 4WD and everything will turn pretty much as normal. Or take the other axle off. 4WD is easier for a temp fix. Your axle cup is not needed in any way for the hub to function or stay together. It really will do just fine without it. All of the loads are taken by the stub-axle/spindle in the hub. Speaking of which: Are the wheel bearings still sound on that wheel? Grab the axle/cup and give it a wobble around; should be no movement. This might be causing your squeak. If the axle was loose enough to whack the backing plate of the brake, this might be the cause of your squeak.

FWD EA82 rear shocks are about 2" longer than 4WD ones, because the shock mount on the semi-trailing arm on the FWD can be set lower because it doesn't have the axle in the way.

There should be no problem with driving around without one of the axles. From what I understand, off-roaders with welded-up rear diffs often pull one axle when they are not playing in the dirt. Edit: As pointed out in the next post, the spider gears will turn more if just one axle is removed. :endEdit I have pulled both axles and driven for many months that way (summer in the city). The rear axles are not necessary for the rear hubs to function (unlike on the front). Putting the tranny into 4WD won't help or hinder: It will have no real effect if you have an open rear diff.

Is your XT 2WD or 4WD? I have had trouble finding numbers for 4WD XTs. (OP: Sorry for the mini-hijack.)

I can't remember seeing a ground strap on my EA82s. Most of the radiators had plastic tanks (thus the 2-wire fan switch), so any strap would either be part of the electric fan shroud or screwed to the top-strap of the radiator.

Is this for a pre-EA82 (i.e. EA71/81)?

Could also be just a bad contact board in the ignition switch. IIRC, that is pretty common.

Also, for cleaning, I would advise against using Drano or any other metal-hydoxide based material. These work on organic blockages but not on most inorganic/mineral blockages (such as you would find in cooling systems). Cooling systems need an acid to dissolve deposits... but the acid is also likely to attack the metals in the cooling system, especially the aluminum. That is probably why most commercial flush/cleaners have gotten away from using oxalic acid and gone to just using detergent. (Plus the environmental harm from using oxalic acid.)

I thought I recalled you saying that it was running previously; just thought it was worth the asking. (I, also, eyed replacing the FPR on my spider intake and thought it would be a headache. Luckily, my problem was mere stupidity.) I have never had an FPR problem from the car sitting neglected for years (and their have been many...) I rather doubt that this was the cause of your FPR's issue... but who knows? Good luck.

Just a dumb question: Are you sure that you have the supply and return lines correctly connected at the manifold piping? I only ask because some months ago I had some issues after an engine swap, only to find that I had connected the fuel filter's outflow to the manifold's "return pipe", and the chassis' return hose to the manifold's inlet pipe. Embarrassing, but quickly rectified.