NorthWet

I once put some Techtron injector cleaner into the tank of an EA82T, and all of a sudden it had misfires in various parts of its rev range. Problem continued after tank ran empty and refilled. After a couple weeks of scratching my head, I replaced the wires and all was instantly well again. The cleaner probably just stressed the ignition enough to finish off some marginal wires.

All of the NA 4-cyl XTs came with the NA MPFI motors, and apparently some of the the GL-10-trim cars around 85-86. (I just saw one the other day in out local yard.) They make a little more power than the other NA engines (but not much) and can get a little better gas mileage (but, again, not much).

Hmmm... I might be interested in borrowing that manual. I have this growing feeling that I might be doing some tranny rebuilds in the near future... unless a NEW New New Ecomomy occurs and I get properly employed.

Are you recommending stand-alone or in-series/inline with the in-radiator cooler?

Slightly OT, but... Are the Subaru sensors made by somebody other than ND? Even the "Bosch" brands around here are just repackaged NDs.

Moosens is pretty much THE Gen1 guy here. He "knows his stuff"... and he has a lot of stuff to back it up. He is the go-to guy if you need something odd. And he has been around the Board awhile; check his post-count. Hey moosens, when do your state become "International"? I don't recall needing a passport when I came out to see you.

Totally good! Much rather have spin ons than "one-for-a-lifetime" inline filter. (Lifetime of what? The tranny? :-\ Kind of self-fulfilling prophesy...) My intent is to get decent tranny coolers. Just trying to decide if I want to go thermostatic or just plumb it before in-radiator coooler. (Latter might risk the "small passage" issue.) IIRC, if pan fluid temp is below 160F the TC won't lock up, so don't want to overcool. Rob, is that 4EAT tech manual any more detailed then the FSM sections on it?

Yeah, this has the standard inline tranny filter. My gut feeling on this is that the servo piston for the band is sticking and releasing... it has that overall "quality" about it. My gut is less "calibrated" as to whether or not excessive clearance is adding to the engagement shock. I had read over in SVX-land about worries about flushes, but the couple that I had read stated some "nonsense reasoning" from auto shops (e.g. - "the crud is holding the gears together"). However, the possibility of a rapid release of crud clogging passageways I can get behind. Guess I will take it slow and easy for a bit, just doing drain and fill. Fluid hasn't darkened yet, just not a proper pink color. (But then, the power steering fluid looks the same color, so maybe the PO just put in some odd ATF.) Nipper: Are you talking about a case of inline filters? Do you know where I can get a good deal on case lots? I was planning on getting a few spin-on mounts, probably from Summit. My wife likes automatics, so I am "blessed" with 5-6 vehicles that need filters and coolers. Well, my rebuilt alternator should arrive tomorrow, along with my paycheck. So hopefully Saturday I can install the alt (getting REALLY good at SVX alt R&R), finish the registration process, and change the ATF. Then I can find out what my $250 bought me.

The clunk is very strong and specific, only occurring when the selector is moved into reverse or into first. No clunk selecting out of those gears, no clunk when selecting D/3/2. General "feel" is that the clunk is down by my ankles or shin area. Fairly certain it is not primarily a mount or a u-joint. I do have an inch-lb torque wrench. My experiences with other 4EATs is that the an inoperative band will restrict the tranny to reverse and first, so by extension a misbehaving band might also. Still, not at the top of my fun-to-do list. I need to find someplace that will give a volume discount on filters and coolers. Still need to add these to my wife's 92 before it starts exhibiting problems, and might as well add them to her Legacy. Thanks for the input.

I have a problem with a new-to-me 92 SVX. The tranny is misbehaving (DUH!... SVX!), with major clunking when selecting Reverse or 1st. BACKGROUND: Our 3rd 92 came to us inexpensively, as the PO tried to do some work on it, and somewheres in the process broke the ignition key off in it. He then tore apart the ignition lock/switch assembly with vice grips and a hammer. Not getting the quality of results that he had expected (i.e. broken key removed from lock, lock reassembled in pristine working order) he let it sit for a year or so. Relatives were tired of it sitting in their driveway, and got his permission to sell it. Advertised as "bad torque converter"... I have resolved the ignition (even rekeying to original code), and finally get to check out the mechanicals. Engine started up with first turn of the key and settled into a beautiful idle. (Kind of surprised, because when the trunk was opened I found a seized waterpump... so the guy had a chance to mess up the t-belt alignment and make a little more work for me.) OK, so on to the PROBLEM: Tranny fluid looks bad but not as bad as the mud that came out of our 2nd 92. While sitting still, tranny engages roughly in Reverse and First (manually), producing a car shaking clunk. No such clunk is felt/heard shifting out of those gears or into any other gear; Drive, Third, and Second produce no sensation when selected. When moving, Fourth does not seem to get engaged, and I do not think Third does either. I do think that I feel an upshift, which I am assuming is 1st-2nd (but might be 2nd-3rd). My roadtesting so far has been limited for various reasons. So... obviously one of the things that is needed is a fluid flush. The "when" is the question, based on what is likely causing my clunking and no high gears. I assume the clunking is caused by rough engagement of the band. If so, is this likely due to sticking actuator piston or to excessive clearance of the band? If I need to adjust the clearance (not a fun task when your "shop" is a crushed rock driveway) I would probably wait to do the flush until after draining and lowering the tranny. If probably just sticky internals, I would flush and probably throw in a flush additive. Long story short: Should I flush first and reevaluate, or bark my knuckles and lacerate my back to adjust the band? Or am I way off as to the problem? (This is cross-posted from "'www.subaru-svx.net", where I have gotten some looks but no posts.)

Orchard Supply Hardware... I don't know about anymore, but "back in the day" you could actually find hardware there. (As opposed to interior decorating/home remodeling crap.) They ACTUALLY supplied orchard and farm operators with stuff to fix their equipment. I used to buy my Grade-8s from them (in full bins of stuff, not sterile packets of 1!), Heim (ball-end) joints, and all storts of specialy fasteners... even METRIC in the 70's!!! Ahhh... we have turned into a nation of faux-painters and Tollers...

Not a fan of "Google Map"?

V

Lots of wrecking yards around here... but also lots of members that have parts engines. Might want to just start a "Wanted" thread. (Just give the folks time to return from WCSS before expecting a response.)

On a more practical and civil note... As mentioned, the heads are different to the point of needing the turbo (or at least modified N/A MFPI) heads. There is no knock sensor on the carb block. I can't remember off hand if there is even a mounting boss on the non-MPFI blocks. The turbo and N/A MPFI blocks have a special oil/vapor separator chamber and plate at the back of the block (underneath the flywheel) that leads to an additional PCV fitting. I suspect/surmise/believe (aka not fact ) that this is needed to help deal with the extra expected blowby of a turbo'd engine. Things may get ugly if not compensated for.

I doubt that one bolt, or even a couple, are likely to cause any warpage in this situation. Almost more likely get warped setting it on your bench wrong. Warpage is usually caused during high-stress conditions: hot parts, lots of compression pressure, uneven torque/clearances containing the pressures. Regarding the HGs, lots of us old-timers started during the days when a HG was a single layer of metal with a little extra fire ring around the cylinder. These gaskets were pretty sensitive to crush during install. The newer multi-layer, multi-material is probably a lot more forgiving. But condsidering the hassles involved if it is damaged, new ones sound like cheap insurance.

+1 on getting a new one as soon as practical, but... I got a free Datsun pickup 3 years ago. About 2 years ago I finally got around to try and time it, and found that the the section of pulley that the marks were on was gone... along with several other more minor pieces of the pulley. It was nick city. I got a replacement, but life got in the way and I have yet to replace the pulley. I can't see any excessive wear/damage to the belts, and the engine runs smoothly. Sanding any rough edge should get you through, but I am sure that you could get a replacement pretty cheaply.

One of the reasons (other than quality ) that MWE is recommended is that MWE is not a "faceless corporation" to the USMB members. It is a relatively small company in Colorado (USA) that AFAIK specializes in Subaru axles. Their reputation with us depends on the quality of their product.

Even with the dipstick I can't tell the real level for 12-24 hours afterwards... seems to take the ATF forever to clear out of the dipstick tube. As long as your driving isn't too spirited (and/or the day too hot), being a quart low is probably better than overfill. If it slips/hesitates during accelleration (fore/aft or lateral) probably a good idea to drop in another quart. Ought to get you by until the dipstsick faerie drops by.

With the automatic in park and the engine off, is is still possible/likely that the rear driveshaft will spin (no direct physcial connection to the parking pawl, just whatever drag exists in the transfer clutch-pack). Spin a wheel and watch both the other wheel and the driveshaft. Or, hold the driveshaft still and spin a wheel.

+1

Not what you are asking, but... Do you have a title? Are you near a dealership? The dealer can often look up the keycode for your Subaru... the older the car the more iffy it seems to get. They require the VIN for this, and the title to prove that you have a right to this info. Then, for between $3 and $50-ish dollars they can give you a new key. (The higher prices are for newer cars with special features in the key.) If not near the dealer, some locksmiths can also do the same thing. I am also told that the keycode is marked on the passenger-side door lock mechanism. Trying for a new key might be nicer than looking like a crook and making it easy for real crooks.

+1 Having 3 of them, I really should have remembered.

OK above 2300 RPM? Throttle setting (WFO, gentle acceleration, cruise) have any effect? I have had dead zones in the power band of a EA82T caused by a bad sparkplug wire: Worked Ok until some combustion/sparkgap stressor required more voltage than the secondary system could provide.

Is this a Mighty Vac that you are looking at?