NorthWet

I suspect that Subaru sells the same EGO sensor that Bosch does, just in a different package. Both probably just repackage the Nippon Denso part.

Where do you smell the coolant? Exhaust (internal leak), engine compartment (external leak), or both? Exhaust smell could be intake gaskets, head gaskets, exhaust port crack, or perhaps a cracked intake manifold. (Some have claimed that the turbo's cooling jacket allowed coolant into the intake, but I have not seen that.) An external leak could be the usual culprits: Radiator and/or hoses, heater and/or hoses, waterpump, and thermostat... and that nasty little hose that runs from the t-stat housing to the top of the block. On the EA82Ts, you also have leakpoints at water crossover pipe, coolant pipe running from non-disty head to turbo (near impossible to see where it leaks) and the coolant hose that runs from turbo to t-stat housing (and disintegrates from the heat if you use regular heater hose). Probably missed a couple...

This can't be emphasized enough. It is far heavier than the engine, and awkward to boot.

Yeah, mostly I need to verify power/ground leads: 2 or 3 different power leads coming in, probably for switched, unswitched, and dashlight/dim. Also, any signal leads would be good. I could guess at some of this, but risking further damage due to haste doesn't sit well with me. If you have a diagram I could certainly use it. Turbone, yeah, I am still kicking. Between dislocating a big toe, and fighting multiple boughts of illness due to working in a "germ factory", not been getting much done lately. I now have an SVX (dark teal) of my own to toy with.

I have 3-4 EA81 digi-dashes (courtesy of Turbone a few years back). I have been trying (not very diligently, I am sorry to say) to get a wiring schematic for the dash connection to the wiring harness. I am pretty sure that I can fix them, just currently rather unable to test them. If I were to guess, I would say that the failed component (IIRC) is a 7805 voltage regulator in a TO-220 package with no heat sinking. All of the failure scenarios that I have heard has involved an alternator going south, the voltage-spike alarm sounding, and a complete (not partial) dashboard failure. Since all of the EL displays are discrete (again, IIRC), they each have their own HV power supply and the chance of a simultaneous failure is rather small. The chance of a 20+ year old VR IC dying from power spikes seems far more likely. Plus, it is cheap to replace and see if it works... ...if you have a way to see if it works, which I presently do not. If someone wants to check my theory, all they need to do is take off the back cover of the dash cluster and replace (unsolder/resolder) the TO-220 IC in the upper-left corner of the unit (near where the thick power/ground wires come in). If this turns out to be the failure point, the "ultimate" solution would probably involve a robust filter circuit on the incoming power lines and an upgraded VR IC with at least an heat sink and probably a TO-3 Package.

Pull off the covers and look. Like GG and MilesFox said, most likely the mechanic installed both belts at once and set both cam timing marks "up". Engine doesn't run too well on 2 cylinders.

Hi guys and gals. It has been an interesting year: I was forced to move earlier in the year (under some truly bizarre circumstances, as family-related things can be) from the home my family has lived in for over 20 years. Moving my herd of Subarus and parts stash proved as diffucult as moving the household belongings. Well, the place I moved to temporarily (housesitting for my B-In-Law while he is contracting in Iraq) is beyond DSL, beyond cable, and almost beyond decent phone service. Dial-up got us, at best, 14.4Kbps speeds. Ick! My jobs have kept me so busy that 3-4 hours of sleep/day is about the best I can expect, and Fridays I have been getting off work around noon Saturday... up to 22 hours between my 2 jobs. On Sundays all I wanted to do was veg. And the worst part of all is that I had no running Subaru to drive! Well, the move is as done as it will get until my B-I-L's return forces us to move again. Everything is still packed away. The BIG garage (32x54) that my B-I-L had payed up-front to have built still sits in pieces in the crushed rock... Without a garage, my grandiose Summer plans of a Subaru resurrection marathon fell apart. I am currently using 1"-thick subflooring panels as a portable work floor so that I can use my engine hoist and floor jack. Qwest installed a mini-Switch near us, so we now have DSL with a decent speed. My work is still the same, and is actually a little worse right now as the night job is advertising-driven. Bah, Humbug!!! But... ...I just got an XT running (sitting for awhile awaiting HG replacement), so I am at least a happy driver again. My wife worked through the summer (school employee) and sold a bunch of our kids toys that had been in storage, and used the proceeds to buy herself a car: A '92 SVX. Very nice. Very fast. She keeps teasing me that I should get one. Anyways, now that I have a Broadband connection again and a Subaru to drive I should be visiting the Board a little more often.

On the New-Gens, there is an Atmospheric Pressure Sensor built into the ECU that sends a hi/low signal to the TCU; someone (nipper???) recently said that this signal was not used in the Old-Gen ECU/TCU so may be a non-issue. The only other known-to-me signal would be the Vehicle-Speed-Sensor (VSS) that all of the EA82s have. Sounds to me like a lot of work. Do you have access to the 4EAT's axles? All of the shifter mechanism?

Yeah, sort of instant kharma. But at least I know who screwed it up and how.

I think I finally sent the 4EAT in my wife's 90 Legacy to its final reward. Driving on icy gravel road, I had it in 2-Manual trying to make its already sick-and-cranky tranny behave. After reentering the highway, I remembered that a low gear was selected so I tried to put it into "Drive" and release the Manual button at the same time... instead, I depressed the reverse-lockout button and shoved the selector too far and into "Reverse". I realized my mistake, but a fraction of a second too late. So, now the tranny is "stuck" in first (which it has never before gone into for me) and an overruning clutch is also enabled. (No engine braking, car gets power to the ground when revved to proper RPM.) Can't decide what I broke (brake band seems obvious choice, but stuck in first indicates something else). Not that it really matters, as easier to swap than to fix in situ. Easy, though, is a relative term as I need to find a paved surface, and I sure wish that there wasn't snow and ice on the ground and subfreezing weather for the last week and into the near future. Mama's not happy... ...nobody's happy!

I suspect that there is physical interchangeability between the components. But again, I am of little immediate help due to weather (uncommon snow and ice) and work schedule. This does interest me, though, so if I can work it in during my moving this weekend I will check it out. OT, but might as well get some info in here: The TCU seems to be somewhat different during the run of EA82 years. The ones in my 88 vs 90 had different mounts and different IDs; not sure if they function interchangeably. I have not pulled loose the TCU on my 90 Legacy and compared it to the EA82 versions.

Nobody mentioned "persuading" the bolt with some hammer taps... Otherwise, what the others have said. Heat-cycling the bolt area and penetrant oil, work the bolt slowly out then back in. Patience. I'm thinking of replacing with studs and o-rings on mine.

+1. A couple turbo-manufacturer sites that I have looked over specifically state that the watercooling is there to minimize bearing-oil coking after engine shutdown. They state that the water does little to nothing during engine running, and that the direction of the coolant flow, and flow itself, is unimportant during running. Plumbing needs to have one line physically lower ("after" inflow) and one line physically higher ("after" outflow) so that the turbo can thermosyphon after shutdown.

Time and weather cooperating, I could find this out. The trannies are so similar that I would expect that they are the same.

+1. I also cut the bottom of the fan shroud while I have it off so that future removals of radiator or fan are less of a pain (literally).

Hey Ed, if you need an adapter in the future, I got one (from Subarutex IIRC).

Just to gather a little more info: While #3 piston was out, did you replace the rings? If so, with what kind (chromed, Moly-filled, etc)? Either way, did you hone the cylinder bore?

On both the EA and EJ they are on the TC. Flexplates look similar, just dished sheetmetal.

I totally agree with GD as far as how the SPFI should handle this. Note that there is a certain amount of drag from the tranny/drivetrain, depending on whether it is usuing an overrun clutch or not (and whether you want engine braking).

I believe that what Baccaruda means is that you can infer the depth based on the interchange/adaptability of the other combinations. To that end, the 11mm (I had heard it was 12mm, and most people used the near-13mm 1/2inch stock :-\) thick adapter is what would make it all come together. As far as getting an actual measurement, I checked my spares and would have had to remove a flywheel or a TC to make the measurement, and did not have tools or the time then to do so. Sorry.

The force of combustion doesn't bend the firing-cylinder's con-rod, wouldn't bend the hydrolocked cylinder's rod. Very unlikely that the engine could build enough momentum off of 1-2 cylinders firing before it hit the hydrolocked cylinder, and the escalating pressure should dampen the momentum prior to lock. Just my $.02... Wish I could say something about the tranny bolt pattern. Don't know one way or the other. I don't recall having heard anyone mention before mention a different pattern for the 3.0, though I think some mention has been made about the 3.3/SVX having a special/specific tranny.

Datsun used the R180 for a couple years in the "Z"... one of them is under my 510 now. IIRC, the R180 came with a VLSD for a year or two under the turbo 280Z(X?); I had a link to a site that listed Datsun diffs, but lost it when my computer crashed. Oh, I believe that you also have to buy the LSD mounting bolts from NISMO, as they are a different diameter that allows the LSD to "float" a little.

Regarding bending a rod trying to start it, it is not going to happen. The starter does not have the power, and the engine can't develop enough momentum before hydrolock would occur. If the price were right (and I had the price :-\), I would jump on it.

Would it be redundant to point out that y'all is already a redundant plural? You is its own plural, and all is explicitly plural. Welcome, and don't be ashamed about your Aerostar. I have one (stumbled into it rather than it being a dream realized) and it has been one of my most reliable vehicles.

The ride of the air suspension is nice. I am familiar with the version used on the Old-Gen cars; on these, the compressor/drier are in the left front fender in front of the wheel (under the fender liner). A major cause of leaks on these is at the connections where the o-rings get old and leak (there are something like 8 o-rings in the system). The air bag may be leaking, as they do this when not properly maintained; grossgary has written some excellent information on keeping the system alive.