NorthWet

Emulsion tubes are "Black Magic". They are where the fuel from the main jet and the air from the air bleed mix into a fuel/air emulsion prior to being delivered to the discharge nozzle in the venturi. Minor variations in cross-section and side-hole size/shape/location make big differences in how the air and fuel are mixed. Generally, you DO NOT want to mess with emulsion tubes, as they will drive you crazy and/or poor and leave your engine running crappy at odd places in it power band. Do as GD says and you will be far closer far faster (and far cheaper!!!) than messing around from some indeterminant set of jet values.

I would go ahead and chase the threads. Its a relatively big fitting for the mechanical stresses on it, so it is not like the threads will be physically strained retaining the tubing.

And you will end up with less low-end torque because of the drastic shortening of the intake runner. It might be helpful if the engine was going to be spun faster (shifting the torque peak higher) but pretty pointless if the engine will never see the high side of 6.5K rpm.

The Subarus sold in Israel were equipped differently then the ones sold in the USA (and probably most countries where USMB members live) so it might be difficult for most of us to offer advice. Moshem74 lives in Israel and has given good information on Israeli Subarus. You might want to send a PM (private message) to him.

From one of the Bay o'E posts: PEUGEOT & STERLING DISC BRAKE PADS I seriously doubt that there is much in common, but maybe Sterling used european brake components on their rebadge. Can't imagine that Peugeot used anything other than French components. I certainly can't imagine that such a French manufacturer would use such an English name as "Sterling" for one of their models.

Folks, get over this whole "coolant channel" thing. Virtually every car engine made in the last who-knows-how-many decades uses heated intake systems. They greatly improve drivability, emissions and fuel economy. Their major effect is at low air flow; effect at higher flows is lessened to the point of not mattering at maximum flow. There is a time factor involved with thermal transfer due to the resistance to thermal conductivity (aluminum is not that great a thermal conductor) and its mass, referred to as "boiler plate effect". Above and beyond the aforementioned less than optimum port design (and the unmentioned inability to port-tune siamesed ports), you have an oversquare short-stroke engine that doesn't make use of its major asset. Short-stroke engines usually trade off torque for the ability to spin at higher speeds, yet the EA-series are redlined the same as my long-stroke 4s from the same era. Horsepower means torque times RPM, and if it isn't producing much torque it has to be spun faster to increase HP. Combustion chambers (especially on the OHV engines with their bathtub chambers) is also less than optimum.

:lol: Learned? School??? Wasn't school just for picking up chicks? Not that I would know. Hmmm...maybe I need one of those 3 ton prosth...

The gear is removable and available at your local (or not so local) Dealer for between US$30 and $75. If you get one used from one of us (I destroyed all of my spares on a bad tranny) you might consider just having the gear shipped.

Any combustible fluid can "auto-ignite" from compression only, given enough compression (a "Gas Laws" thing). Starting fluid uses ether, which ignites very easily, so I would think that it is possible for it to do it off off compression alone, but unlikely in a cold engine. Starting fluid is unlikely to cause engine damage if used normally; there is only so much energy that can be released given idle air. Chasing similar non-start on a Legacy; basic issue is fuel pump is not running, but lots of possible reasons. If you have "noid lights", check to see if the injectors are firing as a start.

For any of you that have A/C, the condensor drain (under the heater box) tends to clog up. The drain passes through a rubber hose near the (US) passenger's left foot. Anyone who gets fogging of the windshield (without similar fogging of side/back windows) should check this and the air intake drains in the engine compartment. Wet carpet and floor grommets are major check points. Also, check for moisture in your trunk or hatch area. Taillight seals tend to allow water in.

"Never have I seen such Bravery!" Well, between your displayed courage and Subaru-devotion, and the fact that you are a year older, I hearby declare and affirm that you are old enough and wise enough to be taken seriously. (Happy b-day!!!) That is some rust there, guy. Around here we get all pushed out of shape over a spot of surface rust. You know, I am thinking that your car would make a good looking convertible. You would lose the sunroof (a shame) and would be hard to put your pizza topper on, but it would look cool.

Stock would be an 1.8L EA81.

The GL/Loyales fit my 5'11", long torso/short legs/too wide body just fine. I grew up with sports cars, so I like my legs pretty straight and the seat full rearwards. Plenty of headroom (if my legs were proportional, I would be 6'3") except on sunroof models, and those usually have the GL-10 height-adjustable seats that allow me a little more headroom. As Connie said, it is amazing what you can stuff in the back of a GL/Loyale wagon.

The disk is usually biased towards one end of the splined hub, oso that it is alnmost flush on one side (flywheel side) and with a protruding nose on the other (PP side). As 4x4_welder typed, it is possible but you are likely to know that there is a big problem (like PP bolts aren't long enough to engage flywheel without presing hard on the PP).

F.O.D. is only a concern for cars that do more than sit and look pretty.

Just horizontally flip the picture in photoshop/whatever!!!

Ammeter is displaying volts???

Internal and external VR alternators are wired differently. The external has F and L terminals (Field and Lamp), where the F terminal is fed by the external VR to excite the Field winding. Not changing the wiring can cause problems.

If you have the Turbo return spring (technically, I think, it is a pedal assist spring, as it is an overcenter design) it pretty much obscures your view of the cable end and stop.

I've had both an 87 t-wagon and now a 90 Leg LS that have/had this issue. Haven't found a cure for it, but it seems to be the float sticking and misreporting the level. I have flushed the system and the problem still comes back within a week. I haven't torn apart and thoroughly cleaned the fluid reservoir yet... seems like too much trouble to extinguish a light.

I thought that was what Marvin said. I am pretty sure it wasn't his dog, as he didn't talk.

Do you have the Turbo return spring on the clutch pedal? This makes things more interesting, but still basically need to slide the pedal off its pivot shaft to get enough room to remove the spring to get at the cable end.

12V is the nominal system volatage (as opposed to 6v or 24v, et al). The real system voltage of a "12V" system is 13.2V, and the 14.3 volts should be the voltage needed to charge your nominally 12V system.

I have used manual in auto and vice versa; either will physically function. IIRC, General Disorder was the one that has said that there is a gearing difference... I haven't seen this but that means little or nothing. I *have* seen FSM specs that states the auto version has a higher KW rating (at least for a certain year).

Listen to GD and mikeshoup. (The engine is an OHC EA82.)