NorthWet

What happened/is happening with the Datsun's motor, and which one is it? (Z20/22/24?)

You could try what I did: Change the ATF, add a cleaner (like SeaFoam), warm it up, then "jack up" the torque converter in Reverse or Neutral (assuming that it tries to go forward while in Neutral). I did this several times over 4-5 minutes and the stuck band/actuator came unstuck. (It was obvious when it happened.)

2-row core, all metal, and copper/brass at that. Built ot last, built to cool. what is not to like?

Sorry, daeron, I almost totally spaced on the pictures... 4 shots, starting at: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=12482&cat=500&ppuser=6017 BTW, the EA81 radiators are essentially the same height as an EA82 radiator but an inch or so narrower. EA81's are also 2-row cores (typically/usually/always???).

I snooze, I lose. Opportunity gone. Thanks anyway!

So, assuming that this hub does need the axles in, and since I don't have any XT6 axles laying around, are there any non-XT6 axles that will fit the hub end? (Leg, GL, ??)

I have a turbo that I can take a couple pics of... just need to find the time tomorrow... plus some light would be helpful (I just got home and it is 3am here). I have a 510, so if there are any 510 goodies left I might be interested. Well, I AM interested, just got to shake some money loose from somewhere.

I did not search, I don't have the free time at the moment to do so, so feel free to chide me about doing it. :-p I need to know how the XT6 hub is retained to the bearing-carrier/steering-knuckle. Is it with the end of the cv-stub like the EA82 sedans and wagons? I need to tow an XT6 that does not have its front axles in, but it seems to be awfully stable without them. Is it safe to dolly-tow it in theis state? Thanks!!!

Around here, NAPA has an extensive line of cable fittings.

Please clarify: Do you mean that there was no nut on it? And you do mean the steering tie-rod, right? Funny things can happen when a wheel falls off and suspension drags on the ground.

I was going to say "governor" before I noticed the "no reverse". What does the transmission do in neutral? How about Park? Our DD ("Christine"...) was bought for cheap because it wouldn't go in reverse. In fact, it had 6 forward speeds: It would try to go forward no matter what gear was selected. After a fluid change and some messing around with it, I got it to break loose and behave itself. Afterwards, I looked at a spare 3AT and realized that I could have fixed it without the melodrama. The band's actuator can be accessed externally on this transmission; the actuator housing is on the passenger side just before the transfer/tail housing. Open this up and you should be able to clean the actuator.

I pull the radiator as I like the room (which is precious little on an EA82T wagon). Condensor stays put. Pain to get at the compressor tensioner bolt.

If I find the problem I will be sure to share it. Thanks for the info regarding your 4eat not being affected. I have done a lot of internal cleaning of mine, and some things are working better but others are not. I was hoping that some might be controller issues; still might be as I have not checked some electrial connections to it.

Went for a drive and got some more info, but basically it looks like I have a power/ground issue. Brake lights at ANY time cause the display to dim for a second, and use of turn signals/hazards along with brake will cause the dimming to continue and pulse. Backup lights also effect things. Heater-blower doesn't, wipers don't, and rear defroster doesn't. Now to find the common link... ...or just go crazy with the wiring. I wonder if this is causing some of the 4EAT's odd shifting. (rhetorical)

Well, no extra dimming with headlights; no noticeable change between headlight dimmed and brake-dimmed. The period of dimming is very consistant, so still makes me wonder if it is a "feature'. More as I explore... Fixed passenger door lock. Thanks again, Manarius. I used a small cotter pin to anchor the spring, but also used some dental floss; we will see which lasts. The article says that this is a problem with EARLY Legacies; anybody know how it was fixed in later Legs?

Doubt it is alternator-related: Does the same thing with the engine off. The thing that made me think that it MIGHT be a "feature" is that it dims to approx same level as when headlights/dashlight come on. Hmmm... wonder if it dims with dash dimmer....hmmmm...

The 92 FSM shows a torque-multiplication curve, and max multiplication is around 2.4 at 0 output rpm. Viscous coupler fluid becomes more viscous as it is subjected to shear forces. Couldn't remember the term, but Wikipedia says that the fluid is dilatant. (Cornstarch can be mixed with water to create a dilatant.) It has little to do with temperature or pressure, but rather shear forces on the molecules.

Thanks. Not only confirmation that it was abnormal, but a fix procedure. Good Job! Judging by the responses, I would guess the "lights dim" issue is not a "feature" on the early Leg autos....

Is it possible that the oil leak is coming from the cam-carrier/head joint rather than the cam-cover gasket? If so, what sealant did you use on this joint? That much oil is a major leak. Did the cam-cover gasket slip off while putiing the cover back on?

Everything MAY dim in mine... I just haven't noticed; it was only some weird circumstance that let me notice the radio/clock. I will have to check sometime when it is dark (but not tonight).

FYI, this has been posted before. Still, it IS fun to look at.

I am beginning to iron out the bugs in a 90 Legacy LS automatic. Still trying to resurrect the tranny, but it is good enough to get around in now. (No longer spewing ATF as fast as it was put in.) It has lots of little quirks, partially because the PO seems to have been a slob (even by MY standards). Well, there are a couple quirks that might be "features" and I just don't realize it. First, when the front-passenger inside door handle is pulled the door lock rocker moves to the locked position; is this normal? Second, the driver door lock will lock the doors but not unlock them; I am assuming that this is merely dirty switch contacts. Finally (for now), when in Park and I step on the brake pedal there is a loud click from the gear selector area (I assume that this is the lock-out solenoid for the selector lever) BUT at the same time the radio display dims for a second or so. Is this "normal", or should I be hunting down a power/ground issue? For now I get to go clean the 2-yr-old cola from the ventilation control buttons...

I just checked out your "tensioner lateral play" thread, and your tensioner looks nothing like my earlier one. So, I suspect anything that I have to say is not very relevant... ...except that 3rd arm thing.

The Gates t-belt for my 90 2.2 had alignment marks on it that could be used. I chose to use them as a quick visual, and confirmed using the cam and crank marks. I didn't find it too difficult, other than deciding I either needed a 3rd arm or install the belt with the tensioner pulley off... I imagine that if I looked up and read directions here first it would have gone smoother.

Roof racks are more likely to weaken the shell's structure than reinforce it. mounting holes perforate the shell, and the bars will concentrate loads into the unreinforced sheet metal rather than the natural spreading of load of the flat(ish) roof surface. There is a difference between stiff structure and "crumple zone". The spares are not meant to be stiff structure, they are meant to absorb/disipate some of the collision energy. Stiff structure (think "battering ram") would help the car to stop quicker when it hit something, but the occupants would keep moving until they impacted said structure or restraints. Tires and crumple zones allow the slowing process to be spread over time, softening impact (lower "G"-loading).