Ibreakstuff

My whole life revolves around the same irony lol. Maybe when I am older it will change to Ifixstuff, but I'm still learning new ways to break stuff. No problem! It actually hurts my redneck soul to use so many big words. I think all this california book learning is getting to me.

Bolts are elastic, every fastener has an elastic limit or its yield point. When a fastener is loaded past its yield point, some of the elasticity is permanently lost. But if not torqued to yield and the load on a fastener is released, the fastener will spring back to its original length. Our head bolts are not torque to yield, so they are not reaching the point of plastic transformation unless you are over torquing them considerably.

Incorrect, the EA82 head bolts are NOT torque to yield.. zero plastic transformation. They do not stretch and can be reused if they are not damaged. You should clean the threads and use oil or a proper fastener assembly lube on the threads and both sides of the washer when torquing.

Personally i'd probably use a rubber mallet to get it started and maybe a punch to drive the bolt through. I wouldn't force it to much, but It's just grime and corrosion on the bolt itself. As mentioned, PB blaster or any penetrating oil would help.

Using a mityvac or a power bleeder can help a ton. I find it much easier to do brake jobs solo with my miyvac as well. I usually pull and teflon the threads on the bleeders as well, but is probably overkill. Spongy brakes annoy me so badly that I completely change the brake fluid in my wrx every few months, alternating ATE super blue and gold so I know when all the old fluid is flushed.

All seals have garter springs, hard to see but its retained in the inside lip of the seal. Well all seals except for the ones that lay on the beach all day.

Oh my! If I ever go in for surgery.. i'm bringing a go pro.

Semantics, the killer of internet ideas. I'm going to be anti-semantic from now on. 1: remove old seal B: remove loose spring III) install seal and leave the spring alone

Saran wrap/duct tape and a handful of grease is an approved rally service fix, well if its a short service..

You can drive for months on a clicking axle that is booted/greased properly, but a clicking axle with no boot is a ticking timebomb... What type of sterile environment are you getting 100k from an axle with no boot and no grease?

Can you, yes. Do you really want to, no. If it clicks really loud when making a u-turn expect the CV to blown up soon. A proactive boot replacement will save you cash.

I recall something different between them, perhaps the depth of engagement.. but its been a few years since I measured them on the bench. But hey, if it works... it works right.

Nice, keep her! Sell those seats if you need to make a few bucks and if they are not original to your RX. Or keep them, they would look good in your car, for sure! The checkered flag interior was early RX's, stopped/changed mid/late 1986. Please correct me if anyone knows more specific dates on the changes. Both of my g56b RX's have hidious interiors. I think the blue GL10 coupe interior looks the best, but finding a mint one has proven to be a challenge. Until then its all gutted interiors for me, plus the car is noticeably lighter when fully gutted.

Hub would be the correct terminology, swapping for EJ parts is less expensive than having custom hubs fabricated.

Did you use an alignment tool for the clutch? If you loosen the pressure plate bolts via the starter it will give you a little more wiggle room, rotate the motor to torque them back down.

Sound pretty awesome! Post some pictures! Welcome to the USMB.

Pictures! feed us!

Oh I saw it lol and in real life that is about where the belt popped. 100 mph in a 3AT, there is probably a short list of people that have even attempted it lol. I wonder at what speed the EA's would be drag limited, my wrx is around 145 mph (150 with a tailwind).

I had a 90 loyale 3at fwd, I daily drove it for a year. Nothing in this world will give you the motivation for a swap quite like driving with that POS slushbox. I popped a timing belt trying to reach the theoretical top speed of a 3AT, it was very loud but not very fast. With some work you could go AWD too and a 5MT swap would be a lot easier (esp the wiring).

I'm with everyone else, to fetch 4k would have to be near perfect. SoA bought that MINT 3 door for 5k recently, but it was all original with no rust and every panel fit perfectly. And the 3 doors are MUCH more rare; eg: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121358715287 Not knocking your car or trying to be harsh at all, I wish our cars value would sky rocket.

In the first post he said it was a turbo car.

Ever been to featherville idaho? Some of the best dirt/rally roads in the world around there. Mmmmmm decomposed granite 2 lanes wide.

Here's a picture of it. It comes as a straight piece if from a regular parts store (napa shown below) but a small finger bender is only a couple bucks.

Cable/zip tie guns work amazingly well as well.

Your turbo axles will work fine afaik (all turbo except 3AT are 25 spline). Also, if it was me I would find out why that ej251 (forester) was rebuilt before buying it. If it was just head gaskets then meh, but if it was something in the bottom end there would be a ? if they rebuilt it properly. An unmolested ej22 would be less risk, but also slightly less reward. Good luck with either car!