Ibreakstuff

Most stealerships do not use the good stuff with regular service, but most do have it in the shop if you request it. And some dealerships will even pump it out by the quart for you, I keep a small gas can for extra S only. If any transmission comes in making noises or hard to shift, you can bet that they will try a change with extra S before diagnosing anything.

There are a couple 1987 XT FSM's on ebay, I'm tempted to buy a set just to upload scans. I know gloyale has posted some of the wiring diagrams, perhaps he could post up the vac line diagrams as well.

I'm slow... work/life/cars has kept me away from the computer at home. MLS HG, with my mods to layout. Here are the SLA's, at the bottom is what a mitsubishi roller rocker arm (cam follower) looks like. Its just a bit too small, still looking for something that will fit. 1.6L EDM VW's might have something closer. Or I could man up and have some made from 4140 1.5" bar stock. Sorry for the dirty pics, everything is coated with oil.

Yep, I'll try to get pictures up after work tonight. I forgot to post pics before I left for vacation. Also received the solid lash adjusters (originally made for a 2.3 ford lima engine). The diameter fits perfectly but I need to cut them for the correct height and press them into the HLA sleeves. I have some roller rockers that may fit also, but I need to confirm if they will require machining or not. I have not made much progress with connection rods or head studs yet, due to being broke lol. I'm saving up to order more parts tho.

Could be the head gasket, block tester from napa is like 30 bucks. Leakdown test could tell you too. I definitely do not recommend a milkshake sealant, ick! But the rest is pretty spot on.

Are your fans coming on at temp? Are you loosing any coolant?

Or you could go full retard.. buy forged internals, tons of rare NOS parts, reinvent the wheel, fabricate the unfabricatable, build the unbuildable, and obtain the unobtainium. And then sleep on the couch because you spent your gf's shoe money on car parts.. then your up at 2am on a work night browsing the interweb for more parts, wondering where your next car part fix will come from. But I wouldn't know anything about that. For simple tuneup go with NGK plugs and wires. And a quality/oem air/oil filter. The only spfi ea82 mods I recommend is the pcv mod so you don't blow oil when your doing doughnuts in the snow, but your car should already have it. Re K&N, if your goal is more maintenance and more dirt getting into your motor... they are great. I use Amsoil air filters, in all of my cars, they probably have the same flow as stock but I have noticed lest dirt film in my intakes and less soot on the maf after playing in the dirt. They can be blown out and reused, as long as the cellulose doesn't get ripped.

Congrats on your subie! And welcome to USMB! For 200-225hp you would have to go pretty wild to stay NA, pickup a turbo motor and swap it if your goals are serious. I know the world record for an ej25 NA is around 300chp/235whp (zzyzz racing, TWE built block).

I should mention also, I broke the gears with a strap wrench and a cheater bar.. I think a chain wrench would just break them faster.

I had similar problems both times my wrx (d25 heads) blew up, also recently with a ej253. Some come out like cake with the old belt and the car in 5th gear or the vice grip trick... But some I've hit with 300-400ftlbs and they didn't budge at all. I think they get over tightened by the motor itself over time. The first time I had the wrx apart, after stripping the old belt and breaking 2 cam gears/2 hex bits/snap on breaker bar... I bought a cam holding tool online, waited a week for it to arrive, then it broke on the first bolt lol. Took the longblock to a local machine shop and they stripped 2 bolt heads and then wanted more money than I was willing to give to work on it further. ::shakes my fists in the air damning Pleiades:: So after 10+ stubborn cam bolts... my failure-proof solution now is drilling the center of the bolt heads to relieve the tension. Drill a pilot hole with something small to keep the hole straight. After each drill bit size, try breaking it loose (10mm was my sweet spot yrmv)... it will either come out or the head of the bolt itself will break off as you increase bit size. Later model ej's should have hollow cam bolts, no idea what years but all mine were. No drill out kit needed. I had the best results with a 90 degree drill chuck and a handle, doing it with a drill press/mill would obviously be ideal but not practical. Disclaimer: Be VERY careful not to hit threads or you will jack up your camshaft. You do not need to drill very deep at all. Just enough to relieve the tension of the head or to drill the head off. Inspect a new cam bolt beforehand to confirm the depth needed to free the bolt head and mark your depth on the bit with something (tape/grease pen). The other trick is to weld a larger nut to the bolt head and hit it with a proper rattle gun. I remember seeing a video by outfront motorsports doing this. I'll dig it up. Dug it up:

If it was me, I would go do the pick n pull hustle. Get the 1 year warranty in case you get a bad transmission (30 days is not enough, sometimes #%$@ happens). 4eat's *CAN* be bulletproof with upgrades (re knight motorsports 1000hp), but there is still a stock limit and the eg33 and ez# both push it. It would feel like pretty gutless with a slipping trans. Power steering issues can be fixed easily as well.

The ford 2.3/2.5 (lima) HLA's are the correct diameter, just taller. I have a set of the ford 2.3 solid lifters on order (esslinger not ble) for confirmation. Another idea that could be done, if you disassemble the HLA. You could flip the body and drill/tap it for a rocker pivot. I would recommend machining a clip groove and blocking the oil hole. This would be the redneck way to do it. It looks like a few mitsubishi (3g63 and v6's) and GM (ecotec) motors have roller rockers (aka cam followers) that *MIGHT* fit also. If the length and roller placement is correct, it still may require conical springs or valve tips to clear. Might just give up on this idea and just use SLA's and the stock rocker arms, unless I can confirm at pick n pull on the cheap. MLS head gaskets shipped from gaskets to go today, should be in my hands next week. I also had John make some 4 bolt exhaust gaskets in ss mica w/2" flame rings. I'll get pictures up as soon as they arrive. Rod pin bushings (940" OD/ 904" ID) from PPPC arrived a couple days ago also, so I really have to decide if I want to try to modify some abarth 850 h beam rods or just go with the stock rods. My better half has been spending this months car budget on our vacation, so I am still at least a month or 2 out from ordering the rest of the parts to build the long blocks.

Oh wow you found this post, nice! Yea, I figured. The lug nuts are definitely not pug, I found a similar wheel listed in the old wheel archive but nothing else.. anywhere. And yep motor is long gone, I just yesterday got my hands on the motor it had in it.. regular turbo shortblock and gen2 heads (one is uncracked). The exhaust is an oddity for sure and will be promptly replaced with a invidia dp and srs catback. I have cool plans for the car, I'll keep you posted. The dirtyimpreza guys rallycross out at prairie city, if you want to take a spin in it. Will likely be next year before its in fighting shape tho. Yep, I talked to Sean and I was able to figure out it wasn't his from the vin history. That lead me to contacting you..

There are still a few out there making the adapter or you can get one made fairly easy. Try: http://www.sjrlift.com/index.php/catalog/engine-swap-parts Scott is an active member of the board, has some posts in the marketplace.

Welcome to the forum btw. Aloha and muhalo! I'll be visiting the big island next month, can't wait!

Personally, I would put a few miles on it then test again.. at least full tank of gas. Also running some type of engine treatment may help too, the rings could just be gunked up and are sticking. Enough varnish can definitely cause temporary low compression and lots of smokey blowby. Your cylinder #1 and #2 are great, but the numbers should be +/- 10% across all 4.

It probably has some minor cylinder corrosion from sitting. How many miles have you put on it since it has been back on the road?

+9001 for FEAL, Odi is the man. Can't say enough good things about his suspension setups. I remember when he was a regional rally driver in the california rally series, way before his drifting fame. Him and his wife are the nicest people you will ever meet. He makes some badass rally and motorcycle setups too.

This was my inspiration for this, included are the specs for setting the lash. Old 80's era WRC/GroupA RX tech documents for the ea82t..

Yep it is more work than its worth, but I am more doing this for educational purposes. Actually my whole idea for building some ea82t motors was for learning and fun. These motors will mostly see rallyx/autox, so the SLA's can't hurt the performance. The smiles to cost ratio is all that matters. And I agree lol, it is definitely a performance mod of my grandpa's racing era. He has to be smiling down on me for some things and rolling over that I am not building ford motors. I have had few failed HLA's but mostly as you mentioned, from gunked up cars. They usually can be cleaned out tho and will start working again. One of my ea82t's ended up having a destroyed thrust bearing.. good times. The amount of metal I pumped out of the HLA's is crazy. I tripled checked (actually 24x checked lol), the HLA's have no oiling abilities.. the hole in the radius head is not drilled (checked all of the HLA's from all of my gen2 heads I have here). No idea why it was machined to have holes, but not drilled through. The only oil from the HLA's would be weeping from the HLA sleeves. I plan to use a rubber o-ring with the SLA's too, to keep the oil contained and to aid in adjusting the lash by keeping the SLA body from spinning so freely. Very true Gloyale. I am definitely not blocking the galley, just blocking the hole in each HLA sleeve. Oil still flows around the sleeves as normal. Oil "squirters" in the cam cases will still be retained. We stopped by summit in Reno today, was eyeballing some pedestal rocker adjusters. These could possibly allow lash adjustment without removing the cam cases. But the rocker screws + locking nuts would probably be easier to fab. And drilling forged rocker arms doesn't sound like much fun. I will post the results and pictures here when they are built.

So this popped up in another discussion, but I thought it might warrant its own thread.. I'm making some adjustable solid lash adjusters, by just machining some 4130 round bar and using some radius head/rocker screws and locking nuts to set/control the lash. The alternative would be modifying an off the shelf kit for another type of engine, but generally all other import motors use smaller HLA's (that I have found so far). Pros to SLA's: More accurate and consistent valve timing throughout the entire rpm range Not adversely affected by higher spring loads or higher rpms Less chance of spontaneous failure (thrown rocker, failed hla) Cons to SLA's: Initial setup will take hours and is very tedious, cam case removal/install x 100000 Periodic maintenance required checking/adjusting lash Generally louder than properly working HLA's I originally believed that our stock HLA's provided some additional lubrication to the rockers, but after disassembling an HLA they don't (radius heads holes are not drilled through). Not sure if this exclusive to the ea82t. All of my heads have an oiling bar which squirts oil directly on each cam lobe... So blocking the HLA oiling ports should be without consequence?. And it should even increase overall oil pressure, added bonus. Any ideas, thoughts, comments?

Hrmm, I'll look into that. If I can just get the upper locking part of the solid lash adjuster that fits our rocker arms.. I can figure out machining a body to fit our oem sleeves. Paeco offers crank stroke changes or even custom crank, I think ~71-72mm stroke and 114-115mm rods would be about the limit the block could hold physically. That could be a cool project.

Mr. Chux, stuff an ej into it.. throwback BRZ! I spy jdm goldies.

You would probably have to have them made for the rears. And the rotors are for sure different front/back. I think the better option would be to 5 lug swap, then you have all the brake parts avail that EJ subaru's have.