Ibreakstuff

I think it depends on the year, you might be able to just swap out the sliding mechanism or drill out 2 holes. The rail spacing should be identical for GC(jdm)/GD wrx's. With the rear seats, I believe you have to flip or modify a couple of the tabs. 100% for sure it has been done before.

wiseco K588M92 would likely work too, 32.66 pin height

So after some offtopic adventures into head gasket/stud land... back on topic. The pistons I think are the best fit are Manley 615000C-4*, square dish (should provide valve reliefs) with 32.639mm pin height. It seems any square non-stroker ej20 piston that has the ~32.64mm pin height could be "close enough" by my redneck math. I have a set on order, I will confirm my numbers and physically check that the valves clear at piston TDC before proceeding. CAUTION: as Quidam found on page 1, a EJ20 piston without a dish or proper valve reliefs and/or higher pin height will result in a interference motor and or piston/deck impact. The 615000C-4 pistons may still need some valve reliefs near the edges. The easier option would be to buy the high compression flat top piston from RAM and use other methods to reduce the compression. I may just buy a set for the second motor and run e85.. If the MLS HG's hold on the first motor... My plan for the wirst pin bore was custom rods.. But I am having trouble finding a rod maker than will make low quantities without selling my soul. In the meantime, I am going to try to rebush the stock rods with 23mm Manley replacement bushing (to match the pins). It will probably require a drill press, some beer, a 12 ton press, more beer, and a back brace for standing up for so long. In case anyone wants to know.. the closest off the shelf forged rod to us would be a fiat abarth or a hayabusa lol but neither bore or width is correct.. ea82t: 117mm BB 48MM SB 21MM WIDE 19.4mm (or 23MM small bore if you go ej20 pistons). (stroke duhvided by 2) + rod length + pin height +/- deck clearance = deck height Stock 33.5 + ~117 + ~33 + 0 = ~183.5mm ej20 32.639mm CH piston: 33.5 + ~117 + 32.639 + .361 = ~183.5mm Note: DH might be closer to 183.65-184mm but I am not sure how decked my test block is. I'll have a unmolested block in the house to measure in a few days. I would like to add a disclaimer to this: I would feel really bad if anyone took my advice and blew up their motor. Wait for me to confirm with the parts in hand, or hell.. don't ever take my advice. Use your eyes, your hands, and your tools (proper mics/gauges/calipers) to confirm everything.. More pictures incoming when the HG's and parts arrive..

ordered, I needed something cheap with usb/aux! ty for the heads up

Question: Is the larger stub the same as 4wd 5mt EJ transmission too? They have the same front diff as a DR.

If I don't pull 200whp 225ftlbs on my two ea82t builds I'll throw in the towel and start riding a bike. One of them will be pushed to the edge and dyno'd.

The best rally car is the one you can afford and finish a race in. That said, I navigated my first stage rally in a 93 FWD GC Impreza with stock suspension and no skid plate (Prescott 08). We finished but burned up exhaust valves after removing the entire exhaust on a "! dip ! dip" early on the first day. Try yelling notes without a working intercom and open headers...

Chain and it could go to 400k without needing any service. Things to listen for, chain slap on cold starting and loud tensioners. As for the head gasket, they happen.. But probably more often with the ez20 (non-r).

Wall of text incomming: To start, you can put almost any set of Subaru brakes on any other Subaru. If you want WRX brakes on your L or something you pretty much just have to buy some and bolt them on. There are some exceptions, however, mostly relating to the rear, which are explained later on. And also in this thread Additionally, the 05+ sti has a different bolt pattern (5x114.3 vs 5x100) so those rotors are not compatible with other models. If your car has rear drum brakes, a disc swap is fairly more involved. I'm not entirely sure on the process but there are more details farther down. I would also be wary about trying to exchange stuff with the 08s. The rear backing plate is completely different so to the best of my knowledge nothing is interchangeable. So, if you're wondering what brakes you have and what other brakes are out there, I've made this big list of most of the different brakes found on modern Subarus. The information came from a lot of places like the DBA catalog (click the rotor size for spec sheets provided by DBAsteve), cars101, and various threads/FAQs here and on scoobymods. This is mostly just about US model cars. Generally brakes were the same around the world but there are a few little special exceptions that are linked to later on. Disclaimer: While I have tried to make this post as accurate as possible, there are some mid year revisions. I also can't be positive all the year ranges listed are correct, especially for pad shapes. In some cases, it is necessary to call a dealership with your VIN number or physically compare parts. Front Brakes 242x16mm Smallest Subaru front brakes, found on FWD non-abs Imprezas (93-96). The caliper and bracket are similar to those for early 260mm brakes with a shorter bracket and they use the same pads. These things fit under 13" wheels. Applications: 93-96 Impreza 2WD. 260x24mm This is the most common front rotor size before 2000. It was found on many Imprezas and Legacies and uses a single piston caliper and bracket. Somewhere around 96/97 the caliper/bracket/pad design changed. These fit under 14" wheels. Applications: 90-99 Legacy non-turbo/-GT/-Outback 1995 Outback 93-01 Impreza AWD (non RS) 276x24mm This uses a two piston sliding front caliper and there are three caliper/bracket designs. One for the 91-94 Legacy SS/TW, an early Legacy 2.5GT/Impreza RS bracket (~96-99), and a Later RS/GT bracket (03+). It's possible to exchange some of these calipers onto taller WRX brackets as long as the pad shapes match. Applications: 91-94 Legacy turbo 96-01 Legacy GT 96-01 Outback 00-04 Legacy non-GT 98+ Impreza RS/TS/2.5i 98+ Forester Some non-us BRZ/FRS/86 models. 294x24mm 295x25.5mm This is the WRX front rotor. It uses a two piston sliding front caliper or the Subaru fixed 4-pot. The sliding caliper, bracket, and pad were changed in 03 and that's something you need to be aware of when upgrading from RS brakes or purchasing pads. The 4-pots are only on the 06-07 WRX in the US, though they were on many older non-US STis and WRXes (the black calipers with Subaru across them). Generally 16" wheels are required with these brakes but there are some 15" wheels out there that work. Also 16x6.5 Subaru wheels do not clear 4-pots. Applications: 01 Legacy GT LTD? 02-04 Legacy GT 05-09 Legacy non-gt * 01-09 Outback 02+ Impreza WRX (including 08, which uses 2-pots) 03+ Forester Baja BRZ/FRS/GT86 Here is the description on the different DBA rotors in this size: Quote: Originally Posted by WRXBrakes DATA DBA 1 piece: Standard series - p/n 650 - fits 2 or 4 piston WRX w/294mm rotor 4000 series - p/n 4650 - Again fits all 2 or 4 piston 'WRX' applications. However - some street pads w/ shims on them may not fit w/ the shim as the rotor is intentionally a bit thicker to add heat mass. Take shims off - run a few weeks - if it gets noisy wait till they can fit. p/n 4000 - Original 4000 series rotor w/ tapered HAT section to clear OUTBOARD ABS tone ring. This ABS system is all pre-2000 MY afaik. 5000 series: p/n 5000 -the OG - fits 4 pot WRX (pre-USDM 2 pot) p/n 5010 - fits 2 pot OR 4 pot front WRX calipers. This rotor was made when it was realized that the caliper bracket from the USDM WRX hit the rotor hardware on p/n 5000. Thus 5010 has a different design- the hardware is recessed for clearance. Added bonus points: This rotor is also available in 5x114.3 to make it possible to swap an 05-07 STi to the subaru 4-pots for rally. Not sure where to find that rotor but I would start with rally shops. A standard WRX rotor cannot be re-drilled to 5x114 as it won't fit over the larger hub. *The non-turbo Legacy actually has a slightly different rotor that is technically 292mm in diameter. It is also slightly heavier than the WRX rotor. They can be interchanged without issue. 316x30mm This uses a two piston sliding caliper similar to the other 2-pots, although brackets and calipers aren't compatible between other 2-pots. 17s are required with them. Applications: 05-09 Legacy GT Tribeca (5x114.3 bolt pattern) 326x30mm (5x100) 326x30mm (5x114.3) STi rotor that goes with the 4-piston Brembo calipers. There are two rotors, the 04 has a 5x100mm hub bolt pattern, 05+ uses 5x114.3. The calipers all mount the same way so you can attach front Brembos to other Subarus without trouble. There were some changes to the caliper over the years that involved some sort of stiffening, so from what I can tell an 07 caliper would be slightly better than an 04. Applications: 04+ STi A note about the SVX: The SVX has brakes that are about the same size as WRX brakes and the SVX has 5x114.3 hubs. However, up front, the rotor hat offset (how close or far the rotor surface is from the hub) is different from that on other Subarus. The knuckle also locates the caliper bracket in a different position. That unfortunately means that you can't just buy some 05-07 STi brembos or Tribeca brakes or something to upgrade your SVX. I'm pretty sure that in the rear things are compatible with other Subarus. Rear Brakes 266x10mm The most common Subaru rear rotor. It uses a single piston sliding caliper, of which there are a few variations. Early Legacy sedans (non-turbo) and Imprezas have a smaller piston than Legacy wagons and turbos, and there are a few bracket/caliper revisions. Applications: 90-99 Legacies/Outbacks with rear discs non-turbo 93-07 Imprezas with rear discs (except sti, 06-07 wrx) 98-08 Foresters with rear discs Bajas 274x10mm This rotor is on most 05-09 Legacy/Outbacks. The exception is the LGT and probably the 3.0R. Parking brake is 170mm. Seems to be only be on these models. 286x10mm 2008+ impreza/wrx 2009+ forester (with rear discs) 2010+ Legacy 2.5i Some non-US BRZ/FRS/GT86 models uses a 190mm parking brake and 1-pot sliding calipers. 290x10mm This is well known as the H6 rear rotor. The Legacy caliper is the same as most other 99-07 1-pot Subaru calipers so you can upsize to this rotor simply by purchasing the brackets and correct pads. The "H6" bracket is part number 26625AE000. It uses pad shape D770 Applications: 00-04 Legacy/Outback non-brighton SVX (5x114.3, 190mm parking brake) Ver5 STI type-RA (5x100, 190mm parking brake) 266x18mm This is the Legacy turbo rear rotor. The caliper is similar to the other calipers but is wider to accomodate the vented rotors. I hear it was also found on the v1 WRX (93-94). Applications 91-94 Legacy turbo 290x18mm (170mm parking brake) 290x18mm (190mm parking brake) 290x18mm (2010+ Legacy GT, BRZ) There are actually three different rotors in this size. The first is the standard 06-07 WRX and 05-09 LGT rotor. It uses either a 2-piston opposed caliper or a 1-pot slider. The 2-pot will not bolt up to other Subarus without something like the Kartboy brackets or having a new backing plate pressed onto the spindle. The next version is for the STi 190mm parking brake so that 2-pots can be used on rally cars. The third version is for the newer cars. It can be found on the 2010+ LGT and the BRZ/FT86/FRS. This third version could also be used as an upgrade for the 08+ Impreza if you wanted to go to slightly larger vented rotor. It does not interchange with the group n rotor. Applications: 05-09 Legacy GT (1-pot, 170mm park brake) 06-07 WRX (2-pot) 04-07 STi with FHI 2-pot conversion 2010+ Legacy GT BRZ/FT86/FR-S Some older non-us spec-b Legacys and wrx/sti models (see rear brake redux) Note: The LGT uses a different brake line than older Legacies and Imprezas. So I think you need to grind down part of the caliper where the line mounts to get it to work on an Impreza. The LGT lines are a different shape and mount and a different angle and you can't use them. 316x20mm (5x100) 316x20mm (5x100, 170mm parking brake) 316x20mm (5x114) STi brembos. There are multiple versions of this disc. One for the 04 STi, one for 05-07, one for 08+ and one with a 170mm parking brake drum. There's an explanation how to install rear brembos on other cars a little farther down. 08+ sti rear rotors have a different backspacing. Applications 04+ STi 320x18mm Hey that's an odd size now isn't it. I was previously wrong with my thinking the Tribeca uses the same rotor as an STi. It does have the same bolt pattern (5x114.3) though. AFAIK, it uses a 170mm parking brake but don't quote me on that. So, what does that mean? The calipers and brackets should work on an SVX. Unfortunately no front brakes are interchangeable onto an SVX because of the rotor hat back-spacing. Drums Some cars have rear drums that are like 9." I don't really know anything about Subaru drum brakes so it would help if someone filled that stuff in. Some of them are: Legacy and Impreza Brighton models, Some 95-99 Legacy L models, some foresters and I think 02+ Impreza TS and OBS. (I'm not sure exactly) To swap out drums, at the least you will need new parking brakes, backing plates, discs, calipers, and brake lines. It is usually best to get a whole knuckle/hub/parking brake assembly out of a car with rear discs. If you want to put rear discs on your front wheel drive Subaru, you might have to parts from a 90-94 Legacy, since they might be the only FWD Subarus with rear discs and the FWD rear hubs/spindles/struts/etc are different. Installing rear Subaru 2-pots or Brembos on a non 2-pot car: The Subaru and Brembos have the same backing plate, which is different from all the other Subaru rear disc backing plates. So calipers don't swap between the two. Additionally, the STi uses a 190mm parking brake drum. Pretty much everything else uses a smaller 170mm drum. That means if you take a set of rear brembos and put them on your WRX, the parking brake will not work. However, there are Subaru 2-pot rotors (290x18mm) with a 190mm parking brake hat and Brembo rotors (316x20) w/ a 170mm e-brake so you can put either setup on either car. There are also Kartboy brackets that will adapt the 2-pot calipers to any other Subaru, and since both rotors are available in 170mm parking brake variety, you can swap either one onto any other Subaru. Here's a thread about fitting the brembos to other cars with the new Kartboy brackets and DBA rotors. Here is the rear brake redux, which has more information about the older rear brakes that came on STis and fancy Legacys in Japan. Some D-plate numbers Quote: Originally Posted by stoptech The Friction Materials Standards Institute (FMSI) is an association that assigns numbers to different pad shapes that are used as a guideline for pad manufacturers to refer to, and bring a common numbering system to the brake pad aftermarket. Virtually every pad manufacturer will either use the FMSI number in their numbering system or have a readily available interchange to cross-reference their part number to the FMSI number. I should note that the caliper bracket, and not the caliper, is what determines pad shape. So while there are a few different pads, in some cases the calipers are the same. Front 1-pots D470: 1990-1995 Legacy 1993-1996 Impreza D722: 1996-1999 Legacy 1997-2001 Impreza Front 2-pots D563: 1991-1994 Legacy Turbo 1996 Outback 1996 Legacy GT D721: 1997-2002 Legacy 1998-2001 Impreza RS 2002 Impreza and WRX 1998-2002 Forester D929/D1539: 2002-2009 Legacy/Outback (non-gt) 2003+ Impreza/Forester 8/2002-2005 WRX 2008+ WRX BRZ/FRS/GT86 I added a new shape, 1539. It is listed specifically for the 11+ but the basic shape is still the same. Difference is that the new pad has more friction material on it and slightly different wear indicators. See this article for clarification on 02-03 shapes D1078: 2005-2009 Legacy GT Tribeca Rear 1-pots D471: 1990-1999 Legacy 1993-1998 Impreza 1993-1997 SVX D770: 2000-2004 Legacy 2005-2009 Legacy GT 1999-2002 Impreza D1004: 11/2002-2005 WRX 2003-2007 Impreza D1114: 2005+ Legacy 2.5i/Outback (incl 2010+) 2008-2011 Impreza 2008-2012 WRX 2009+ Forester non-vented FRS/BRZ/86 rear brakes D1124: 2010+ Legacy GT FRS/BRZ/GT86 FHI 4/2-pots Front: D647 (or D1170, D460, D1182) Rear: D461 STi Brembos Front: D1001 Rear: D961 Missing information: - non-us market vehicles - 2012 Impreza - BRZ (but I'm pretty sure the rear brakes are the same as the 08+ WRX) Source: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1265631

I'll add to this, my cut wagon springs and gr2 kyb shocks performed pretty damn well in my first 3 door. Not comparable to coilovers, but probably as good or better than the legacy shocks.

They work but DO NOT SOLID MOUNT THE TOP HATS. Ask me how I know... Keep both upper and lower top hat bushings to avoid breaking the shock shaft. You need a bushing/sleeve for the bottom bolt too. See this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134406-05-09-legacy-wagon-shocks-wtf/

Those must have been some depressing years for drivers tho, after the demise of group B. Can you imagine Ari Vatanen was in the group B pug 205 then his next stage rally ride after his accident was a Subaru RX? At least he had some spare wheels, right lol!

I thought so too. Just the idea of taking buying a stock rx, the rally kit, a basic cage. And you get: There were several Rally spec RX's created in the USA, running the old SCCA pro rally series. I've been trying to find one of the old Chad DiMarco cars but they are beat to spoob and put up wet. Obligatory Wikipedia quote: Subaru Rally Team Japan led by Noriyuki Koseki (founder of Subaru Tecnica International STI) ran Subaru Leone coupé, sedan DL and RX Turbo in the World Rally Championship between 1980 and 1989 a few rallies per season.[7] Drivers for individual rallies included Ari Vatanen, Per Eklund, Shekhar Mehta, Mike Kirkland,Possum Bourne, Harald Demut and Chilean driver Jose Antonio Celsi. Mike Kirkland finished 6th overall and won the A Group at the 1986 Safari Rally. That year Subaru was one of the only manufacturers combining 4WD and turbo.[8] Jose Antonio Celsi finished eight in the 1986 Marlboro Rally Argentina and fifth in the 1988 Marlboro Rally Argentina. During 1989 Subaru entry two works RX Turbo for Jose Antonio Celsi and Possum Bourne. Celsi finished fourth, but retired on the final road section and Bourne retired during the first stage. Subaru changed the rally model to Legacy RS for the 1990-1992 period and took part in the first complete season in the World Rally Championship with the same model in 1993. Activity: (1985–1989) Power @ rpm: 190 bhp (142 kW; 193 PS) at 6500 Torque @ rpm: 230 N·m (170 lb·ft) at 5200 Length Width Height: 4370 mm 1660 mm 1425 mm Weight (kg/BPM Ratio): 1060 (0) Transmission: 4x4 Full-time Engine Type: H4 Boxer SOHC x 2 Engine Position: Boxer Turbocharged Engine Capacity: 1781 cc Engine Bore: 92 mm (3.6 in) Engine Stroke: 67 mm (2.6 in) Engine Compression: 7.6:1 Engine Valves: 8 Engine Carburation: Electronic Multi-Point Turbo: IHI Body Doors: 2 (Coupe) or 4 (Sedan) Body Type: Coupe and Sedan Brakes: Ventilated disks Fuel Tank: 60 L (16 US gal; 13 imp gal)

WoodsWagon is speaking gospel. These motors do not like overheating, at all. With your budget, I would still consider a used intercooler and DIY hood scoop. Expect to pop head gaskets. Just for perspective too, I'm fully blueprinting and building out 2 ea82t motors right now. My focus first is keeping the head gaskets from popping and keeping everything cool (oil, coolant, intake), because any money elsewhere first is a waste imho. Cam regrind is so far down the list, its practically not even on the list yet.. But that said, I fully support delta cams.. they provide a great service and you won't regret it if you are looking for more power up top. We ran them in stage rally in a 2.5RS, it held power for much longer in the higher revs. We took 7th OA rally idaho 2010, if you want confirmation hehe. It was based out of mountain home (near you?), the mayor got hammered for the awards banquet.. good times. Ever been to featherville idaho? Some excellent dirt roads up there.

+1 on using exhaust for leverage, I now know how you were shearing those axle pins.. +2 on the turning bolts without opposable thumbs, #*(& darwin

Hrmmm: http://www.northamerican-steel.com/threaded-rollthreaded.html

I looked into grade 8 rod before, but all I could find was all cut threads and in course pitch. I would give threaded rod a try if I could find roll threads in coarse pitch for the right price. I'll send headbolts an email. I just wanted to check in again with ARP, its been a few years since anyone has asked again about ea82 studs.. And they have released a few more kits for other/newer cars. If I remember correctly they do have off the shelf studs for the shorter bolts. I'm almost temped to just counter-bore the other 6 holes on each head (14mm deep, 25mm wide) to match all 9 holes to the same depth/length.

Just got a message back from ARP, they have but will not release a master list for head studs. You have to provide them with measurements and they will try to source off the shelf studs from other kits. I gave them the most vague measurements possible in hopes that they will list some possible candidates. Its pretty dumb they don't just have a full list of individual studs, but I can see the nightmare it could create with people ordering the wrong ones. I was referred to another person in the company, he said he would get back to me on monday or tuesday.

I'm building a couple ea82t's at the moment, I consider it gambling money.. lol. But it will be fun. You can do a cam grind if you want more power up top, but it can take from the low end power some. I assume you found delta cams? Good luck with your build, let us know if you have any specific questions.

Yea, I was looking at that too. I'm not sure why they would want to restrict flow in that area. The blocked ports at the top right of my stencil would be near the turbo on the passenger side too. I know based on simple physics that as water moves faster and faster has diminishing returns on cooling. But I can't see such a restricted head having that problem. I'll give the changes a try and keep an eye on the head temps with an IR thermo. Thanks for the tips, I'll see where else on the block some porting can help. Really just a new 2 row rad w/modern dual fans, a beefy oil cooler, and a frozen boost AWIC (type 14) would do leaps and bounds. Now that I have the HG sorted (at least in my mind). I'll start doing the work on pistons. I may just go with an off the shelf ej20 piston and custom rods. And ARP still has not contacted me back with a master list of all of their head studs with size/pitch/length, they love making it difficult to cross reference everything.

Ethanol still has its place, works great with high compression or forced induction. I just don't want it in blended in my regular unleaded pump gas.

I think I'm going to drill out and clean up a lot of the passages on the block too, the casting is pretty shitty around the openings. Port matching head gaskets, sound so weird?

OEM Gasket shipped off to gaskets to go yesterday, hopefully it gets there safe in a few days.. Pics 1-6 are just the block/head bare and with the OEM gasket. The last is my rough stencil with the changes in dark lead (graphite?). I also requested for the bolt/stud holes to be 13.1mm instead of ~11.8-12.7mm.

Man, that sounds rough. I guess we have it easy out here on the west coast. I use a drift punch for any that are stubborn here, thats about as bad as it gets. How could you get that much leverage to shear them off, 10 foot pipe? It feels like I am going to break my breaker bar every time, just break them loose (with the pin removed).

I think the idea with the belleville washers is that if someone screws up and doesn't torque it properly, it will make up for it some and keep the wheel from flying off.