Ibreakstuff

Haha, locally grown organic engine hoist.

+1 If the motor had a ton of blow-by from the overfill, it could have fouled the o2 sensor too. I doubt that would cause a sudden no start tho. Was it blowing smoke after the overfill? How long did you run it after overfilling? Are there any ecu codes present?

I never touch the rear main seal unless its leaking, that goes for all subaru engines. From personal experience, its like playing with fire. The original was installed when the case halves were put together. If you do have to replace it, buy a proper sized driver or use a PVC drain cap of the appropriate size. Be careful to install it at the same exact depth the original was installed too. And good luck on driving it in perfectly even and flush.

Yep, definitely a pain to adjust them with the cam case but worth it imho. We had the same idea, if they can be turned down or modified to fit.. And they are not too expensive to try. It may come down to me just ordering a few sets and returning the ones that won't work. I sent a few emails out for basic dimensions for each make.

Price for custom was prohibitive, I looked into it. RAM had some for sale too but the compression was too high for what I am doing. They were flat tops with valve reliefs, would be great for NA or race fuel. I ended up getting my 3 sets for 70$ a piston. You could argue that working around ej205 pistons is costing more, it might in the long run lol. I'm just going to have fun with these motors. If I have to eat a few less cheeseburgers to pay for parts, my heart will approve. Next on the list of things to figure out.. shimless solid lash adjusters. They make them for the sr20det and mopar 4.7L, why can't I have them on my ea82t? Subaru did shimmed solid conversions on their ea82t rally cars circa 85-89', it was part of their formula to 180hp (probably reliability too).

Starting a post off saying you are too lazy to search.. awesome. Searching is your friend, just type into google: site:ultimatesubaru.org lifting loyale site:ultimatesubaru.org lifting ea82 site:ultimatesubaru.org ej struts loyale site:ultimatesubaru.org 5 lug swap I really just wanted to leave you with that but I can't help myself... The fronts would require swapping to 5 lug, rears will not work at all, and your probably better off just buying a 2" lift kit from our vendors on here.

+1 Good eye catching that bad connector. Multimeter, second best tool in the garage. I had a similar issue years ago and it was a loose pin at the ECU. Going crazy with the dielectric grease and tidying up the harness will do lots for reliability. And about the old harness, definitely keep it. You never know when you will need the odd connector or piece of correctly colored wire. Hell, I still keep a spfi full harness in my garage and I don't even own an spfi ea82 anymore. One day it will save someone..

If you have a rear LSD and you like the clutch packs working, run your offsize spare it the front where the open diff is.

I would venture to say that weight is correct. The manifolds/mounts/flywheel probably add a good 75lbs by themselves. A friend and I pulled my ej255 without a lift and it was every bit of 300lbs with the intake and some accessories. This was before my back injury too, there is no way in hell I would even consider it again.

If the body of the HLA is spinning, not just the cap/nipple.. there must be gunk/corrosion in the oiling groove holding it in. Just grab on to the body of the hla with some meaty vice grips and yank it out with force. The HLA or the sleeve will come out with force, hopefully the HLA first. I would be going medieval on that #%@$^ before writing the head off.

Still deciding what to do with the rods, feeling less and less comfortable with opening up the small end on the stock rod. Running bushless without DLC (or similar) coated pins and the correct RA on the rods sounds pretty risky imho. DLC coating my current pins (came with the forged pistons) isn't an option because they have to "remove .0003" a .001" to get the Ra surface finish acceptable for DLC". You lose some OD, that you can't get back. Custom sized DLC coated pins are ~ $50 each and would likely require both the rod and piston pin bore to be honed to the correct RA and clearance. Seriously considering buying some cxracing h-beam from ebay, for an Abarth 850. They have the right C to C length and I *might* be able resize both ends (bore and thickness). They are on sale for $260 a set right now, might just buy a set to see if its even feasible. On order: 12 custom sized ampco 45 bronze bushings from pppcenter, can use them with whatever rods are chosen. $18 per bushing.

Lookie what arrived today, still waiting on parts/machine work to start building the shortblocks. Icon IC638C - ej205 off the shelf 4032 forging ^^ optical illusion, the left one looks bigger.

I'd still rather not have the covers in that case.. If your crawling through a mudhole, the covers would definitely hold in gunk/dirty water. Easier to pressure wash and inspect the belts coverless. Flying rocks jamming between the belt and a pulley is what will cause a instant belt break.

Just make a large enough skid plate that no rocks can fly into the engine compartment, then you can run cover-less even offroad. ATF does eat belts

Personally, I would go with wrx front springs and early legacy wagon rear springs. But definitely check the spring diameters and try to match struts.

Found this, might be helpful. It doesn't cover any of the more modern subarus. Not sure on the outback spring rate either, but the springs themselves would be taller. If you tried to stick them on impreza struts, it could have way too much preload (impossibly so?).

Springs should be interchangeable. The WRX springs should be a higher spring rate too. Spring rates (from my notes, not 100% sure of accuracy) car front rear 2.5 RS GC stock 157 149 2.5 RS GD stock 149 117 WRX sedan 5MT stock 163 119 WRX sedan 4EAT stock 163 129 WRX wagon 5MT stock 163 132 WRX wagon 4EAT stock 163 144 WRX STi USDM stock 224 195

My manuals don't show a 7 for the 7th VIN digit. Perhaps other years did.

With a 92mm bore, 60mm stroke would be ~1595cc and 67mm stroke would be 1781cc. The compression ratio would most definitely change if you tried to use the same rods/pistons, as well as other negative factors. The compression height difference has to be made up in rod length or with pistons (pin height) to achieve the same CR with stroker/destroker, or bad things can/will happen. And lower CR does help with forced induction, otherwise they will knock and shatter pistons/blow ringlands. You can run higher CR with FI if you can keep the detonation in check (racegas, e85, water/meth injection, proper EGT management, etc).

The short stroke should allow all EA's to spin like crazy. But trying it without the required oil pressure... Theoretically how fast do you guys think an ea82t could spin with upgraded springs and properly lashed HLA -> solid lifter conversion?

You can make the ea82t heads flow pretty well with 2 bar of boost! Until something pops. 8k rpm on any EA motor should sound like the most pissed off can of marbles ever.

My head hurts. Thanks for clearing that up Gloyale. It was never an actual plan just a harebrained idea lol, I should have realized that the disty location is obviously different crank vs cam driven. It is pretty common to destroke ej257's, they rev to the moon (~9k rpms) and hold a longer power band.. even with the reduction in displacement. It weird the new EE/FA motors have completely square bore:stroke. I'll have to keep an eye out for a PnP ea71/ea81 to teardown and get more familar with. Thats how I first dabbled with ea82's lol, why buy it when you can tinker with it for free on the yard.

If you make any progress with studs lmk, I hate arp! They don't even know what studs they have. I'm with you on the subaru super coolant, that's what I have always used in all of my cars. I may give the Evans waterless coolant a try tho, it has a much higher boiling point.. Should reduce hotspots in the heads and well as give more breathing room for overheating. You using the GM style weatherpack connectors? Those are pretty awesome. The EJ coil packs are pretty bulletproof for sure. I had to replace one on my impreza, but usually you can visually tell if they are shot (will bubble out and almost melt). I really like the ej253 VVT heads too and the later intake with huge runners/plenum.. Would make a sick NA EJ build.

stroker ea71 is probably a smarter idea

Anyone have anymore info about the ea72? I would like to know more about that ugly duckling.