Ibreakstuff

If you can find it, Subaru Extra-S really is the best fluid for your transmission. Your local stealership might even sell it to you right out of their barrel. Afaik its a mineral and synthetic oil blend and is what FHI ships in the gearbox from the factory.

Wow, not sure how but I never read this thread. It's refreshing to see someone else has similar ideas for tinkering with the ea82t. From your photo, the compression height on those forged pistons seems to be off.. is that just an optical illusion? I picked up some Keith Black/Icon (IC638C) pistons and the compression height is exactly the same as the stock turbo pistons, just with the larger pin. Did you ever pick up the Ford solid lifters? I still have not cut mine to size yet, I am thinking about machining a ring around the lifter similar to the stock HLA.. So the sleeve will take the load, so not to peen the bottom of the HLA bores. Regards

Looks cool, but the front end on the new minis are glass... No one in their right mind would take it anywhere you could take a brat.

We were talking about 3rd gen EA82's... DL/GL/RX/Loyale. Does the XT rad fit? In your infinite wisdom, do you have a magic part number that will solve all of our problems? Thanks for clearing up why we have the short/long water pump!

If you search back in this forum, the spectra part# is listed in multiple places. I have no idea if it is actually a 2 row or not. That is the biggest flaw of the internet, one error listed as fact and is recorded til the end of time. Never trust the pictures shown for parts either. The problem is that the only cars that came stock with a dual core rad were turbo and automatic, so fairly rare. I believe this is the reason we have 2 different water pumps lengths too.

I believe you are correct, a few places have it listed correctly. Rockauto and Oreillys, not so much.

It's all in the factory service manual, in great detail with part numbers. Book #2 (section 2 and 3) is what you want, covers the engine and transmission.

I checked my notes.. someone told me once that a Spectra CU1099 2 row would fit (made for XT?). The top mount holes won't line up but they are just nuts tacked in anyways. Looking at the pictures it is a much better option for a 2 row than the Murray 433698.

WOW, I have 2 brand new radiators sitting in my garage.. Both murray 433698. I pulled one out and you are absolutely correct!?! How did I not find this out sooner. Its probably too late for me to return mine, so I will mod mine to fit. The core itself fits nicely, but the upper and lower mount holes are way off. Edit: Looking at it further, I think a little dremel work will make it fit. I'll have to fab up some rubber mounts for the bottom and trim the upper mount. The gates lower radiator hose seems to fit also. The biggest problem will be cap is not offset.

As for the MLS torture test, I pulled the candidate ea82t this morning.. popped the valve covers and it looks almost too clean inside. Spare RX with intake mani and everything car side is ready for the transplant. I'll take pictures along the way if I remember. I still need to tear down the heads and clean everything up before reassembly. The idea will be everything stock, even the bolts (+10lbs) and the G2G MLS gaskets. No intercooler. I have a spare td04 and 3" exhaust, but I will have get her legal with the stock turbo first (california smog sucks). If it holds 13+ psi during a sacramento rallycross session (Prairie City OHV park ftw), that will give me some confidence moving forward with the built motors.

The ej205 forged pistons I got have a 13.4cc dish, so with the 38cc chamber and a 1mm gasket... ~8.8:1, something around there.

Considering a MLS torture test with a all stock ea82t that has never been apart @120k, while I save money for this/other projects. I have all the parts/consumables for a full reseal. My only concern is being able to reach the appropriate surface roughness for the head/deck. G2G recommends ~20 RA for his MLS gaskets, cometic recommends less than 50 RA (mirror finish) generally. I do have a surface plate, a 18" precision straight edge and feelers, and a ton of silicon carbide wetordry sheets.. The surfaces should both still be relatively flat since the motor has never been apart or overheated. Any input?

I wonder if it would be possible to continue on to 600/800/1000 grit and get the RA down between 20-50. Or what about this same method for the block side? Edit: Actually, my estimate of the necessary grit to RA was grossly inflated. It seems that 320 grit would already be in the ballpark of 20-50 RA. http://www.sunnen.com/graphics/assets/documents/e2e25e493b00.pdf

I concur, this is why it is important to find a local shop and stick with them. Put cash in their hand for a few years and they will do anything you want, within reason. You have to build relationships for shenanigans. My local tire shop do all kinds of crazy shite, sometimes for free. Rally/Offroad/Shaved/Illegal/Non-dot tires.. bent rims that I need double or triple stacks of weights.. Experiments with tire bead sealers and obnoxious kevlar beadlockers.. But they wouldn't do any of that for a walk-in customer and I have spent a lot of money in their shop over the last 10 years. My advice: Search around for the shop with the smallest stick up its arse. Show up on a boring tuesday/wednesday when no one is around and offer to pay a little bit extra.

Basically it doesn't matter, its up to you. Personally I go for a motoman style break-in and change at oil/filter @ 500/1000/3000 for new motors. But it's definitely overkill and probably not even required.

700$ for an exhaust replacement is pretty high, maybe double what I would expect a muffler shop to charge locally for mid pipe/muffler replacement. But if rusted out it should be replaced, you don't want to be sucking carbon monoxide in the cabin from a leaking midpipe.. Or killing all those cute canaries with smog.

While mismatched tires won't really cause problems with an open/vlsd/open setup, I can see why they wouldn't want to do it. Most tire shops now keep a lawyer on retainer.

Either head gasket would work.. DOHC HG is a little bit thicker iirc, so the SOHC HG would raise compression ever so slightly.

It should chafe you further to know that Toyota now owns 16.5% of Fuji Heavy Industries. That little restrictor plate bypass contraption cheat that got them booted from the WRC was pretty clever, you have to admit. It's up there with nascar guys smearing sterno on everything inside the motor to boost octane. They had to expect to get caught eventually.

Gates does make some parts for AC Delco (99% sure that kit is Gates). But think of AC Delco like Fel-pro, they just source wholesale parts in bulk and put their name on them. I prefer Gates belts and NSK tensioner pulleys. But the full Gates kits work well. If you do the water pump, try to get a paraut or aisin unit.

Aftermarket head unit or all stock? It sounds like the fm antenna booster is not connected or is not working.

I should mention that Subaru has not and never will "void" a warranty. They can deny paying for a claim based on a specific modification and things directly effected as such, but a warranty can not be fully voided. If you fully prep a new car for racing and its still under the factory warranty (gutted, built motor etc), but the rear defogger switch goes out.. You could have it repaired under the factory warranty easy peasy. That said, the Subaru remote start would probably be a plug in harness. Instead of best buy using vampire clips/splices to tap your wiring.

Also, I've never known anyone to do a front end swap unless there was some front rad support damage. I suppose it is possible, but definitely check their work/welds.

Modified wrx's can be a risk, I wouldn't even test drive it until they showed me the results of a compression/leakdown test. Also find out who tuned it, tactrix cable means open source... Easy to pop the ringlands or cause damage elsewhere with a bad tune. Ask me how I know.

Ask him to run a compression test, it will at least give you some indication to the health of the rings. You could also verify that the thrust bearing isn't completely gone by checking for crank walk. If both of those are tight, I wouldn't hesitate to daily drive an 200k+ ej22. Regarding your OBW, your concerns regarding the ej25d head gasket is valid. But it shouldn't cost $3k to do the HG's and reseal.