mikaleda

I beleive the lock tumbler is held in with one of the bolts.

I have replaced a couple on '05 outback and yes they are a pain to get out. I've found that the best way to get to the second bolt is to plug the window switch back in and roll the window down. That will give you access to the second bolt. Getting them back in is a bit harder.

That's a totaly different motor your talking about.

No, it will run fine without the rear cat, might throw a cel though. My 99 has a broken off sensor going to the rear cat and it doesn't have any cell and runs fine. Someone might have put an o2 eliminator on it before I got it though.

Defiantly not a head gasket causing these symptoms. As rooster2 said a headgasket would cause overheating. The miss is more than likely plugs or wires and a coolant leak is why you loosing coolant and smelling antifreeze. I suggest that you fix the leak rather than plug your heater core with stop leak. Its more than likely an old hose that is warming up and seeping, there are a few places that could be easy to miss a slow coolant leak.

If it needs the egr fix with the new heads here is a post that has good pics and description of the process Out of the USRM http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/137829-using-a-non-egr-engine-in-subaru-with-egr-exhaust-gas-recirculation-valve/?do=findComment&comment=1159612

Could always do the egr fix and run a hose to IAC hose and T it in.

Don't forget the prorate as well, after a year or two they will only warranty part of a new battery. Some company's have less months, but don't prorate

Ya, I agree that buying batteries is a crap shoot. We have a solar system at my moms place and they spend $400 a battery and still get disappointed. I typically go by how heavy they are, the heavier the battery the more lead is in it and the better the battery is.

+1 on the coolant temp sensor, there is one for the ecu and one for the gauge. The one you want is the two prong for the ecu. when its really cold though they will smell like they are running rich for a bit until the intake can warm up enough to start atomizing the fuel. Check your air filter as well, if it can't breath it will cause this as well

That trick doesn't work with the new lead calcium batteries, the aspirin dissolves the sulfation on the cells and will revitalize a pure lead battery. But.. The new batteries have lead/calcium alloy plates. The thearoy is that it reduces the amount of gas the battery produces and makes them a maintenece free battery. Just because it has a removable cap means its not maintenece proof, but is still a maintence free battery. This is why we don't have to check water level in batteries as much anymore, but there is a downside. The downside is when the battery is dead, its dead, nothing is bringing it back. The plates arnt plates anymore there more of a bag of lead/calcium mix. Replace the battery, unless your not worried about getting stranded when it decides its done.

Just reread your post, from the sounds of your symptoms your most likely culprit is a bad radiator. Anything else and it would just go to redline with little to no warning.

Check for bubbles in the coolant resiviour, a sure sighn of an internal head gasket leak. Probably not the case, but its a good place to start. When the headgaskets were done did they use OEM parts from the dealer, if not that could be the source of the issue. These also use Subaru coolant conditioner IIRC, they also can be a pain to bleed out. There is a bleeder screw that needs to be pulled out while filling, or the upper radiator hose pulled off and fill the block before filling the radiator. Could be an old clogged radiator, couldn't hurt to change if its original. Aftermarket thermostat could be an issue as well. Only use OEM, or Napa sells Tama brand that works well, there is a big differance between the cheap ones the parts store gives you and the proper thermostat. Main difference is the OEM thermostat is twice the size of the aftermarket ones and can't be installed backwards.

Check the underhood fuses, one of the SBF might be the problem.

Yes and they make it a PITA to change tires since the sensor is easy to break off when dismounting the bead. I hate TPMS systems.

The external door handles are notorious for gumming up and breaking when cold. The part that breaks usually is the plastic piece that holds the rod that acuates the latch. I just replace one on a 05 ll. Bean outback, part was about $40 for an aftermarket handle The outer door handle doesn't use a cable only the inner handle uses the cable, but if the cable is messing up it could cause the latch bind wich will break the handle so it should still be checked. As long as it opens from the inside your problem is your exterior door handle.

Depends in the car, but usually a difference of 2 psi is enough to set them off. I used to tell people at the service center to just drive it, once the tired warm up it will go off. If you are worried about having a light on during the winter months have you tires filled with nitrogen/air mix. Most tire places do this for a couple bucks extra and will keep your tire pressure from changing when it gets cold.

It depends how soon you catch it, obviously if there is a hole rusted through then no por15 wouldn't be a good idea, but if you catch it before it rusts through and you prep it properly the por-15 will stop the rust and strengthen the metal once it hardens. It does work I've seen it do exactly what it says it does.

Interesting it looks like they don't make rust converter anymore, but they make rust refomer http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-215215-Reformer-10-25-Ounce-Spray-Color/dp/B001DEL6J6 Looks like the same thing, I might try this out myself, be convenient for small projects.

What I do typically is buy the new axels, not reman. You will know their new of they don't ask for your old Axel as a core. EMPI makes the best aftermarket C.V. axels IMHO. Unfortunately EMPI is no longer in business, But you can still get old stock from most online retailers.

http://www.por15.com Here is a link to their site check it out

POR-15 it seals and encapsulates rust, I found out about it when I was working at the service center and we were restoring old Pontiacs. Its expensive about $45 a quart or $180 a gallon, but it works good.

Another thing to consider is how old are the struts? If they have 200k+ miles on them a new set of kybs will help with the suspension bottoming out when you are going through rough stuff. Struts won't give you more lift, but they will help it keep from bottoming out on every pothole.

Yes you could install the steel spacers. I've used them on our old ford plow truck, but I don't think I would use them on a Subaru ESPECIALLY if there is ANY rust on the springs. You could buy and have installed heavier springs, all said and done your looking at least $300 But..... Your bearings are still only rated for so much weight, then the lug nuts are only rated for so much and so on and so forth. A small trailer will run you $200-$300 for a nice one and you'll need a receiver hitch bolted in. But you won't be causing undo stress on your rear wheel bearings, wich will cost you probably twice as much. I would personally go with the trailer since it will only be seasonaly needing to haul the extra weight.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7m3gMvG2fM3T0xrRkNLWXIzZDA/view?usp=docslist_api Trying out google drive for image hosting since photobucket is being a POS. Hopefully I can get a few more pics on here