mikaleda

If you don't have an egr and are going to put it in an car with egr there is a simple fix here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/137829-using-a-non-egr-engine-in-subaru-with-egr-exhaust-gas-recirculation-valve/?do=findComment&comment=1159612

Your 95 long block will fit any legacy, legacy outback, or impreza from 90-99 IIRC You may need to swap intakes and y-pipes depending on the car its going in, but for the most part you have a very large selection.

Maf is the most likely cuplrit in that list. O2 sensors rarely fail, cam sensors usually work or they don't, injector is possible but less likely that the maf. I would try a used MAF sensors they are cheap and easy to get swap out.

Makes sense I think I'll coat the new handles with some white lithium grease to help stop the problem from happening again.

Good to know, I figured it was not a lot of silicone in it. Now I know, I bought a can of pure silicone spray.

I talked to my customer and we decided to replace the door handles with dorman replacements. The passenger side was replaced with one and its been working great ever since. I was tired of messing with these damn door handles.

http://www.webstaurantstore.com/wd-40-specialist-11-oz-water-resistant-silicone-lubricant-spray-with-smart-straw-6-case/940300011.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=GoogleShopping&gclid=CNHDqICDw8sCFVKDfgodBY0DQgThis is what I'm using it has a silicon lubricant. I thought of lithium grease, but I'm worried about it catch dirt and stuff. I think I'll try pure silicone spray next time.

Okay, I've got a customer with an ll bean edition H6 outback. They are constantly having issues with their doors. So far I've traced the problem To the outer door handle has a build up of gunk and rust on the inside pivot point which causes it to stick and keep the lock from acuating properly. So far I've had little luck with the method I'm using lasting for long. I've been cleaning the pivit point out with carb cleaner and then relubricating with wd40 silicone. Anyone have any ideas, my next thought is to use straight silicone spray.

I would also check codes and check for vaccume leaks.

This may be something, are you missing a gas cap? If so I would inspect your fuel, its possible you have water contamination.

Ouch, sorry to hear about that. I hope you are feeling better, foot injurys are the worst.

I have had good luck with Napa's lifetime wires. If its acting up in really wet weather I would check your plug wires first. Misting water over them will make them arc if they are bad. Like 1luckyTexan said a plant mister or spray bottle with a mist option should work.

Looks like the thing from preditor vs alien that jumps on peoples faces and lays its eggs.

It shouldn't take 13 hours to do the head gaskets, let alone the timing belt. 3 hours sounds more like it.

That makes sense my harbor freight scanner is a can and E obd2 reader I must have gotten lucky when I bought it.

I used to pull TCU codes all the Time on various makes and models including Subaru with a snap-on Solaris scanner when I was working at the service center. Although its not as common for the TCU to throw codes in the older subies, I have pulled tcu codes with obdII scanners on older Subaru's before.

I live in north idaho, on a dirt road 16 miles from town. I think he is full of it

Almost forgot the 91 we bought a few years ago with 240k we replaced struts, original mounts and I sold it with 275k and i still see it every once and a while still going good.

I've got a neighbor with a 94 legacy with 450k miles on it and its had a few sets of struts in its lifetime, but never new strut mounts. My moms old 90 went 330k miles on two sets of struts never changed the strut mounts. I have 230k on my 90, new struts original mounts. Same with my grammas 97 outback with 250k. Same with my moms new car 97 impreza 230k. Same with my step dads 97 brighton 240k. I would call B.S. on that statement.

That's funny, my harbor freight scanner does. I pulled tcu codes off an 05 outback with it just the other day.

98 should be obd 2 and even a chepo harbor freight scanner will bring up your transmission codes. If the at temp light is blinking you have codes

I did say to inspect everything, its possible not following the torque sequence caused some bolts to be loser than others. If it worked when you pulled it out, something you did when installing is causing your problem.

What? Slowing down with your engine doesn't do any harm to anything unless your seriously over revving it. The best is a mix of engine braking and use of your brakes.

I seriously doubt that is what's causing this problem. I put a 30k mile engine in my car with my old clutch and it never caused and issue. I would suggest pulling the engine or trans again and redoing your tourque sequence on the clutch disc and inspect everything. If nothing else for the peace of mind.

Spark plug wires use NGK or high quality wires.