mikaleda

Broken speedo tab, vss is driven by the speedo cable In the cluster so that's why you have a CEL and why its not shifting correctly

Could be front o2 sensor malfunction, I just diagnosed this problem on a 2001 outback (IIRC that's the same power train as you have) A scanner with live data is what it took to find it, the 02 was stuck in lean and it wasn't throwing a code.

http://www.powerprobe.com Its replaced my multi meter I still have a cheap one for certain things but a power probe III and up is way more useful than any meter I've ever tried including fluke

The screws on the backing plate of the pump tend to loosen up from what I have read. The fix is to pull the pump and put loctite on the each screw and retighten IIRC

Never use any selant on headgaskets, they are always installed dry. Proper block prep and head resurfacing is key to getting the right seal and there is no subsititute

It definitely seems to be some sort of grounding issue, I would check all grounding points under hood and under the dash.

Its rare, but I've seen it happen before A bad master cylinder leaking into the vaccume booster. All you need to do to verify if this is the problem would be to separate the master cylinder from the booster and look for fluid residue. Edit: just read you already did that, it is possible its leaking slow enough to suck it through the vac line and burn the fluid maybe?

Sounds like a malfunction in the park lockout. Good suggestions from 1 lucky Texan. I would also suggest checking the wires and connections to the brake pedal switch even though the brake lights are working.

+1 for kyb

Also it helps on the front struts to do them upsidedown so its easier to get a socket on the compressor.

There are a few differences on the front struts. There is a camber bolt on the strut to hub connection. It needs to be marked so you can re install the new strut with the correct camber. There is a reference notch on the strut and notches on the bolt. A paint pen works the best but sharpie works too. If its rusty enough the rust will leave a clear line where the old strut was positioned and you can use that to get the new strut lined up. The top hats turn and have a bearing in them that should be checked for slop, they rarely fail but its good practice. And I've found legacy's front springs can be a bear to compress all the way with normal coil spring compressors. I like to use this type since they are a bit more slimline and seem to work better. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OUW7XE/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41fmgtt-HgL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C90_&refRID=0EFAEYKT7X2N0H3S6CYS I've used mine on several sets of Subaru struts using an impact they are definatly durable.

Load pro looks like a similar version of a power probe, but at a more reasonable price. I've been sold on power probe since the first time I used it though. It may be more but it will replace your multi meter. Auto ranging multi meter and it energizes circuits positive and negative at the push of a button. It can also power small motors like power windows and lots more. The built in flashlight is nice too. I'm not a salesman for them i just really love their product, it makes tracing electrical problems like this alot easier. Check them out http://www.powerprobe.com

Glad you found the problem, I had a feeling it wouldn't be a fuel supply issue.

Cycle the key a couple times is all it takes to purge the fuel lines. First thing to do is verify what's causing the no start spark, fuel, or compression. Once you do that we can go from there.

But how do we know the motor wasn't swapped out with an interference motor? Its always a possibility and it only takes a few minuets to do a compression check. Ive had it happen, you just never know unless your the original owner.

Your positive its a non-interferance motor? A compression check might not be a bad idea at this point.

I have changed several sets of shocks front and rear on subies from 90-99 and I've always been able to get them almost back to where they needed to be, but its not worth chancing a good set of tires. Put new good quality shocks in and you wont regret it. Unless its just a beater then I would throw a used set on get them as close as possible and call it good.

Probably just didn't get it right the first time, it happens. I'd pull the covers off and redo it and see what happens.

I would try putting the fwd fuse in and see if your symptoms go away. Make sure the FWD light comes on on the dash. If it doesn't that might indicate a duty c malfunction.

Also there should be a fuse holder labled FWD on the pasenger side strut tower. If you put a fuse in it the trans will default into front wheel drive and should alleviate any torque bind issues. I'm not positive that your model/year has this fuse though some did, bit some didn't either.

Okay I'm going to break this down #1 cold start idle fluctuation I would pull and clean idle air control valve. #2 heating control lights flickering. Common issue the solder points on the back of the HVAC controls crack and cause intermittent problems. #3 sounds like torque bind, search this forum for torque bind. First things I would do is make sure all four tires are matching size, tread wear and pattern. Check trans fluid level/condition Do you have any flashing lights?

http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__Legacy22L-AT-4WDL-WAGON/IGNITION-SWITCH-ASSEMBLY-----------------91-FOR-IMMOBILIZER/49293816/83131GA060.html You may pay more, but your garenteed to get the right part, you'll need you Vin so they can get you the right part.

96 was a weird year, I've heard of some having non interference and some that are interference. As far as I know the only way to tell is to pull a valve cover, if its solid lifters its interference. IIRC

Inspect the connecters to the motor by the battery I've accidently dislodged them before changing a battery. Its kind of a long shot, but is the only thing I can think of that would cause this issue.

I had the same issue trying to renew my gold subscription, but silver went right through. Seems to be a flaw in the system