Sydfloyd44

The trick is to remove the glass from the regulator. This will allow the regulator to move freely to where you can match up the bolt holes. Since this has happened, I would recommend you put a drop of Loctite on the threads of the bolts to make sure they don't work loose again. What you have to watch is the fact that Subes have frameless doors. This means many attaching parts for the glass to remain stable. You are looking for the **2** bolts (10mm) that go thru the horizontal slide and into the plastic mounts that are attached to the glass. I know it is tight, but you have to get the glass out of the way. (would recommend you have a friend to hold the glass UP long enough to get the motor bolts reattached) Once you reattach the motor in place, lower the regulator to near bottom. Watch for a location that you can get to both bolts to put them in. (recommend a 1/4" drive with a 6" extension, 10mm) Put something slightly sticky in the socket to avoid dropping the bolt in thebottom of the door as you are getting it threaded. Once attached, put window all of the way up and CAREFULLY close the door checking the alignment of the glass with the seal! DO NOT just slam it closed in case the horizontal/vertical adjustments are off. If they are and you are not sure how to correct, either look close and think it thru or post back here and I know myself or some other guys around here will help you out.

Pretty cool! I have a LOT of customers that would love that!! Unfortunately, no way we could do it. (federal laws) Would love to see the face of the next person that tries to break it! They will get quite a suprise. Just curious, any thoughts on how you are going to attach? Not familiar with bonding to Lexan? Good work!

Tracy, PM or e-mail me. I should be able to get you a Burco Redi Cut for about $12.00 including shipping. They are custom cut and fitted. I replace several of these a day.

Tim, it is the BEST tool to ever hit our industry. It is called the Express. Made by Equalizer out of Round Rock, Texas. It is a Dewalt sawzall with the nose coverted for the flat blade. Has been saving my back for the last 2 years. What stinks about it is the price. The sawzall from Dewalt is about $200. Once Equalizer gets done modifying it, it is around $700. Worth every penny, I think? http://www.equalizer.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=2004&Product_Code=DTE1000&Category_Code=03&Product_Count=3 Anyway, I am glad you understand where I am coming from. Too many will continue to do it on their own not understanding the seriousness of a proper windshield replacement. Nothing I can do but try to get people to understand. Some will, some won't. Can't save people from themselves.

You are correct Keith. It is actually "Foam Core Butyl Tape". The ONLY location this has been approved for is a "fixed encapsulated" location. Meaning, there are bolts built into a frame on the glass that is the main source of attachment. The foam core butyl is strictly there to create a water tight seal. Ford is the most common for this. Sliders and quarter glasses. Foam core has not been out that long. Regular Butyl tape is just solid and it is what you are speaking of. Comes on a roll with thin paper keeping it from sticking to itself. It is also quite commonly used in certain types of race cars. Only if they have a full roll cage though. (unless you are doing some "crazy racing") Race cars are also not under FMVSS. Urethane does create a much more rigid body to the vehicle which is something butyl cannot do. (new VW's and Audi's use a special adhesive called High Modulus which is because they now use the windshield as further body support than in the past) Funny, I see you are from Reading. York here. My mother lives in Denver my sister lives in Bernville. I get up to Cabelas quite often. Small world!

I am sure some will not like what I have to say, but.. Oh well. As a professional auto glass tech for the last 12 years, every year I read repeated industry information regarding "novice" windshield installations. The common part of all of these articles is that someone either died or is parapalegic. Although is not impossible to install a windshield as a novice, there is a lot more to safety than one may think. You may have saved some money, and it might not leak, but if the exact procedures from Sika were not followed, it is a faulty installation and you and/or your passengers might not be happy campers in the event of an accident. I have used Sika for over 10 years and I am trained 2 times per year on their products. Using a grill in place of the proper heater (which costs almost $500) gives you no assurance the exact temps were achieved to create the proper chemical reactions in the adhesive to work at all. Maybe it is that I just hate to read those articles. Maybe it is that I just hate spending my workday correcting the problems that didn't need to be there to start with.

The "rope type" seal you are talking of is called butyl tape. It is not only against all auto glass industry standards, but it is also against federal law to use. It will not keep the windshield in nor keep the roof up in a roll over accident, and as some find out, this can be deadly. Urethane is the only adhesive. Keith gave you some good advice. If the repair worked, stick with it! If you don't have to replace it, don't. The biggest problem these days is from "hacks" who replace windshields and don't do the simple things like priming the scratches caused during the replacement process. (among many other things)These are never seen by anyone but the installer, but if not primed properly, you will have major rust issues in the future. Stick with a reputable, LOCAL company if you do end up with a replacement. One last thing.... Most think that when a windshield is replaced, you 'might' never have the tight, solid seal under the windshield. Believe it or not, there are more and more cases these days of bond failures from factory. Some are failures of the paint to the primer (e-coat) and some are the adhesive to the paint. When replaced by a GOOD, REPUTABLE company, they will actually make the seal better than factory by correcting the problem. GM recently recalled a bunch of the 2005 Trailblazers, Isuzu Ascenders and another model which I forget at the moment for windshield bond failure. We have been replacing them by the dozens for local dealerships.

Well, I was surprised to find out that these molding go for $65.00 wholesale from Pilkington/LOF. PPG warehouse is not open today to check, but will probably be right in the same ballpark. It is always possible like Humble to find a descent set in a yard and possibly get them out intact. If interested, shoot me a message. Shipping will probably be under $10.00 UPS. If you are in a rush (this week), unfortunately I can't help out. I am leaving in about 1 hour for a weeks vacation in Massachusetts and I won't return until a week from tomorrow. Let me know.

Yes, but are expensive. Pricing will be about $125.00 for the full kit which includes new sides, top, bottom and 4 corners. (this is a pretty standard price nationwide) I will check and see what our price is on them tomorrow. If you are interested, I am sure I can get them for you as cheaper than you can find them anywhere. Are you just thinking about replacing the moldings? Are they cracking/discoloring? These molding are "push-in" style and can be installed without removing the windshield, but is easiest when the windshield is pulled. If windshield is not removed, there is typically a lot work cleaning out the urethane between the glass and body before the new ones can be installed. It is key to have the proper primers to cover any scratches to avoid any future rust. Urethane is also required to hold them in. There is NOTHING else recommended to use to hold them in. PERIOD. NO glues, silicones (the worst!!), bathtub caulk, liquid nails, etc., etc. You could certainly do it yourself with some instruction.

Can't the dealer pull from other dealers inventory to get you what you want. Bought an 04 4Runner Limited about 6 months ago and they just pulled it from another dealer (different state). They were pushing to eliminate their own inventory, but I was not going to spend 40K on something I was not 100% happy with and they got it for me. As far as aftermarket sunroofs, our company installed many styles for about 10 years. Ended up having so many issues, we stopped about 2 years ago. Just not worth it. Either wait for what you want or have the dealer get it for you, but DO NOT spend that much money on something you will not be completely happy with!!!!! If the dealer won't get it, talk to another dealer. (in person or over the phone if they are not local)

On his 97 Outback, it is easy to find. Looking under the hood, look just right of the passenger side strut tower. Sticks up out of no where. Black with white writing, FWD. Pop the cover and stick in the fuse. (15 amp I think)

Was visiting a friend in Ft Myers Beach about 4 months ago and his 97 Outback has the torque bind issue. Been thru the dealer thing about 4 times and it just returns. When I was there, I did some reading on the board here and the opinions were somewhat mixed as far as exactly what "long term" is and what type of damage will result. (was concerned about him driving it back to PA with the fuse in) Regardless, I put the fuse in for him and he was RELIEVED to have it stopped. Shortly after that, he moved back to PA to his summer home driving I95 the whole way and has been driving with it in for at least the last 2 months with NO problems or issues to speak of. When I went to visit, just to see what would happen, we pulled the fuse. Torque Bind was obviously still there but after about 20 miles of driving, was clearly no worse than when we originally put the fuse in. He is leaving for his annual trip to Thailand in a couple of days but I just spoke to him and he now has his eye on the Tribeca.

Yes, I know too well what you are talking about. Virtually all insurance companies now use what are known as "Glass Networks". They handle all of the billing, paperwork and phone calls for auto glass claims for the insurance companies. Here is what happen to you. When you call Progressive to place the claim, you might think you are talking to Progressive Glass Claims, but you are actually talking to the SGC Network who handles the claims for Progressive. Guess what SGC is short for? Safelite Glass Corporation. The network is one of their 3 divisions. (network, glass manufacturing and then the installation shops) What they then do is called "Steering" which is illegal in most states. They "back door" you into one of the Safelite shops or have them come mobile to you. If you tell them you do not want them to do the work, they then tell you lies about no warranties or that you will have to pay any additional costs over what they will normally pay. (not that safelite stands behind their warranty anyway!) For one thing, any reputable auto glass company has a lifetime warranty on the replacement. 2nd, most auto glass companies will just accept what they are willing to pay especially since they are ALREADY CONTRACTED WITH SGC NETWORK!!! The pricing is already set and the amount of the job cannot be changed. This is a MAJOR problem in our industry. As a matter of fact, Diamond/Triumph just launched a multi-million dollar suit against Safelite for these practices. Long story short.... IF YOU KNOW WHO YOU WANT TO DO THE WORK, CONTACT THEM AND ONLY THEM FIRST!!!! LET THE AUTO GLASS COMPANY HANDLE THE CLAIM WORK WITH THE INSURANCE COMPANY! THIS IS THE KEY! They will not attempt to steer you if we are on the phone. Now, what they might do is to send a Safelite truck to your house before your requested shop does the work. Just tell them to get lost! P.S. 10 degrees in the winter is a NO NO!!! Urethanes will not cure and your car is NOT safe to drive!!! Any moisture can also cause catastrophic failure!

It is probably your top molding. If they told you this is "normal" for Subarus, they obviously are not concerned. Here is what you do: Looking at the windshield from the outside you will see the moldings that run up the A pillars along the glass and join up with the roof rack by tucking under them. These are reused after the windshield is replaced. Not a likely candidate for noise. Depending on what they used for the top molding, that is where you want to concentrate. Once you know the conditions that the noise occurs, take some masking tape and tape off the drivers half of the top molding, then driving and listening for the noise. Once it stops, you have your answer. If you do the whole top molding and it is continuing, start down the sides. If it is the top, it is no problem for the to fix. This can happen to the best of installers. All they need to do is backfill a 'small' amount of urethane under the top molding to stabilize it. If it is the sides, (again, not likely) they may not be set in tight. The A pillar moldings have clips on their underside. Then there are small posts that protrude from the wall of the pinchweld. The clips just slide onto the posts, then the bottom of the clips lightly tuck under the edge of the windshield. Concentrate on the top!!! I just re-read your post and I lean further to the top because you say "when the wind is blowing". A cross wind is probably what gets the edge of the molding to start lifting off the body and then it just starts vibrating. Let me know how you make out with both the molding and the glass shop. One last thing. THIS IS **NOT** NORMAL FOR ANY CAR!!!!!!!!!!!!! If the glass shop would just do what I recommended that you do, they would figure this out without a problem.

95 Legacy L wagon, Manual Had my clutch replaced about 2 years ago at the Stealership. Had the usual bucking and chirping. Took it back and of course the bucking is "normal" and the chirping, "WHAT CHIRPING"!! Has been going on for 2 years, bucking has stopped. Chirping heard outside of vehicle and a cricket is inside with me now. Same thing. Step on the clutch a little and it sound like I squashed them both at the same time. My hard learned lesson. DO NOT GO TO THE DEALERSHIP!!!!!!! As this was going on, someone on the board here told me that this problem is common and what the dealer did/did not do is the way Subaru recommends. Stick with a local, trusted mechanic who is familiar with Subes. Talk it thru with them BEFORE they start working on your vehicle to make sure these problems do not exist afterwards.

My door locks started doing this about a week ago. My 95 Legacy L did not have keyless entry from factory so I had it installed at Tweeter. Pulled my door panel to see if it is something simple. I remember that when they installed the keyless entry system, I had to purchase an actuator for the drivers door since the system would not work without it. Sure enough, when I took the door panel off, first thing I saw was the setup for the actuator rods. One of the little screws came loose that holds one of the rods and was causing the problem. Took a few tries to get it adjusted properly, but a small phillips and a drop of Loctite fixed the problem.

Your door glasses are tempered glass. Designed to break as it did in the event of an accident/emergency. There are always 2 things that we check for when this happens. First is whether it is a problem with the adhesive you are using and whether the glass/channel is being prepped properly? From factory, they use a 2 part epoxy, not silicone. Silicone will not work long term, especially considering the stress that door glass are under during normal operation. When this happens, we will use urethane instead of the epoxy. The glass and channel are prepped using special primers to cause a permanent adhesion. 2nd question is whether there is a regulator problem. Many times this is the case. If something is cracked, bent or damaged on the door or regulator, this will cause undue stress on the adhesive and cause the glass to pull out of the tabs or break them as it did in your case. Without looking at them, it is hard to guess. Once you get a good glass that should have the tabs on them, install it and keep running it up and down repeatedly watching for any problems. If no problems with the regulator, the new glass should get you running again.

I second bjwirth! I had a keyless entry added to my 95 Legacy. (I think it is Viper) No alarm, just entry. One of the settings they did was for it to automatically lock. I didn't like it so I had them reprogram it. Only took them about 10 minutes. Either way, it is probably just a setting.

Welcome to the addicting world of XM!!! Have 6 subscriptions between 2 of us. Just can't get enough!! My recommendation would be to go here: http://www.xm411.com/phpbb/index.php XM message board. There is a section on getting the help you are looking for. The guys there are pretty descent and should be able to give you some good advice. Ziggy who started the board also has a great online store where you can get virtually any accessory available. He lives in DC near XM's HQ and works closely with them. http://www.myradiostore.us/

Where in the US are you? Might want to find an auto glass shop that will do a free diagnostic for you. We do them and I would hope another smaller company would do the same. Hate to see you spending money when you are not positive what the problem is.

Did some checking today on the glass. According to our books, same glass for RX, RS, GL, Loyale and a few others, and dates shown were 86-90. Pilkington/LOF said that they could get one of them. Problem is that it would be thru Pilkington Classics which is not good for the pricing issue since it is their division that handles rare/obsolete parts. (not sure which side?) PPG has one side in Hartford, CT and the other in Richmond, VA. Pricing is the same for both and would be $60.00 plus shipping for each one. (PPG doesn't normally charge us to get it to the warehouse that services us and we don't pay delivery fees to them) These are NEW pieces of glass directly from PPG!! Weird thing is that one side is a green tint and the other is a clear. The green tint is what you have as do virtually ALL cars. The clear was the weird one?? That would be EXTREMELY rare if it is truly clear? If tinting, it wouldn't matter. Would take about 4-5 days until I had them in my hands. Just for your information. If there is any interest, we can talk further and we can MAKE SURE it is the right glass. If not, no problem!

If you return interest to the glass, give me a shout. Can hook you up with new glass at near wholesale price! As far as the Lexan, you are correct. It is not legal since it doesn't meet FMVSS. In reality, who is going to know? Especially if you tint it and are careful cleaning it to avoid scratching.

If it is shaking, it might be one of the stabilizers that are attached to the glass and then ride along vertical supports in the door. The metal they use on them is a weak metal and can break easily. At first glance, they make look ok. Look close as you run the window up and down. Any cracks/breaks in the metal? Very common problem. I would question the seals since Subarus are frameless windows, they only touch the seal when they are almost closed or just opening. I would put my money on one of the stabilizers. They are what keep the window from shaking and keep them balanced.

Sounds like the possibility of a regulator gear tooth problem. Have seen it many times on many different vehicles. The last tooth or 2 get worn down. When the gears on the motor get to those teeth that are worn, the motor doesn't catch and it just keeps running since there is no bind to tell it to shut down. If this is the case here, the tooth will be worn only on one side since the window is still able to come back up. When you say you hear "clicking", if it is inside the door, this is probably the case. Here is a pic of the regulator and what the teeth on the regulator should look like. http://rep.racepages.com/parts/racepages/quote.jsp?year=1997&product=O3040-58932&application=000324642&part=Window%20Regulator&category=All With the panel off, you will need to flashlight and to find viewable access to see these teeth on the regulator to check them. The switch still sounds like the culprit, but check the teeth before you spend money just to be sure.

Not quite fully understanding the problem??? Can you try to re-explain? Thanks!