Sydfloyd44

The connection for the heated windshield is under your interior driver A pillar cover. Using a panel tool, carefully pop the cover off and near the bottom you will see a white plug (will have electrical tape on it). If there is a plug mounted to the A pillar and nothing plugged into it, there is not a heated windshield in your car. If there is, the wire should go down and under the dash toward the passenger side. The connection to the glass is about 12" from the edge of the dash and is not visible inside. After the windshield is set, it gets plugged in on the A pillar and then the wire is pushed down out of sight between the glass and dash. Just as a FYI... This is not uncommon for a couple of reasons. For one, the heated windshield is more expensive. If someone is paying cash, we get asked frequently to install a non-heated to save money. The other reason just sucks. Unfortunately, there are some "not-so-honest" auto glass companies out there. They charge either the customer or insurance company for the heated windshield and then install the non-heated. A quick and easy increase in profit without the customer ever knowing. They just assume it is working. Don't ever hesitate to request to physically see the heated windshield BEFORE they start the installation. This should be done at the time of the appointment to avoid a "bait and switch".

We have been seeing this more and more after replacing windshields. We obviously remove the rear view mirror for the replacement and when we reinstall and plug the power back in, we have customers coming back with this problem. Mikkl is right about going to your owners manual. There are instructions to do it. There are usually 2 different options, one of them is to press a certain button to put it into the calibration mode and then drive in a circle 3 times. Yes, sounds weird, but read your manual and that is what it will probably say. The other typical option just allows you to set to the calibrate mode and then just drive for a period of time. My 04 4Runner has settings for where you live in the country/world. It then auto calibrates.

My 95 Legacy drivers seat belt has been starting to pull apart over the last year or 2. My mechanic told me that I really need to replace. (as I am going to do shortly) This thread brings up an interesting point. Check out the Subaru.com website. Limited Lifetime warranty on the seat belts. Wondering if this is something new or whether my 95 might be covered as well?? http://www.subaru.com/owners/warranty/index.jsp

95 legacy L sedan. 2wd. 147,000 Last night while traveling rt 30 from Lancaster to York in my 04 4Runner, Had to do a quick stop from 30 mph due to a "stupid person" losing control in the snowstorm. ABS kicked in, got the typical shaking feel and came to a stop without any problems. Today, ran in to work in my Sube to shovel out the shop, I decided to test my ABS. Nothing happen?? Brakes locked up and I slid. Tried it at about 40 mph on a snow packed road. Tried over and over again a couple of times throughout the day. No vibrations, nothing. I actually drive quite cautious in the snow and rarely have reason to lock up my brakes so I honestly do not recall ever needing the ABS on my Sube. Now I am wondering if something is wrong or why they are doing this? ABS light comes on and goes off when starting the car and never did anything but this. Any ideas before I take it in?

Great find!!! I have 2 garages and getting rid of the 2 remotes in my car sounds pretty good! Thanks!!!

Hate to say it... but.... As a professional in the auto glass industry, you guys scare me!! I also hate having to clean up these jobs and then charge an extra $100 to do so. Replacing a door, vent, quarter or backglass is no big deal. If it rusts, falls out, who cares. If it's your windshield, you have NO IDEA what the repercussions are. Look at what each of you do for a living. Doesn't it bother you when someone that doesn't know what they are doing reads the DIY website, totally messes things up and THEN brings it to you to fix? Some things are better left in the professionals hands. We still see people installing windshields with things like silicone, liquid nails and butyl. Now that is scary! Just because the windshield isn't leaking doesn't mean that it is installed properly. Unfortunately, people find out when the roof of their car has pushed their neck down around their waist or when the passenger airbag deploys and launches the windshield 50 feet in the air making it useless. Just too serious of an issue. I would much rather see you find an experienced replacement tech that will do it for you "on the side" for A LOT less money. Auto Glass companies do not like this, but it is not hard to find someone to do it. If you were closer, I would be HAPPY help you out without an issue. OK, bash me if you like, but there should be no compromise.

You are absolutely on the right road to challenge the Insurance companies valuation of your car. Getting valuations from different parts of the country may not be favorably viewed by the insurance company since there will be different values placed on different cars in different places. It won't hurt you trying! The problem is that no matter what the condition, there is a pre-determined value that is already on paper for your car. Like I said, you can certainly challenge it and many insurance companies will listen to you. I used to run a glass shop and we sub-leased part of the huge office space as an Allstate Drive In claims office. Can't tell you how many times I saw people go out of there pissed off because they didn't get the value for their vehicles they thought they should have. Most of the time I would hear, "I just put a new engine in", "it had a $5,000 stereo system" or "I just spent $1,000 on new tires and rims", etc. Unfortunately, it really doesn't matter. Again, you are on the right road and I hope they revaluate your car, but just keep in mind that the insurance adjuster doesn't care if it is your favorite Sube or a Ford.

Put a new heated windshield in an OBW today. The connection to the glass as someone else said is well below the dash line and cannot be accessed. Although, the hookup is under your drivers side interior A pillar trim. If you carefully pull on the trim starting at the top, there are 3 simple push in clips that will release. Once the A trim is off, near the base you will see a large white plug. This is where the wire comes from the windshield and hooks up. This is a good place to check to see what kind of current is actually getting to the windshield. (assuming both connections are still attached to the glass?)

Have a 95 Legacy Sedan L. I also recommend making the ground clearance a very high priority in your decision. It is probably the thing I most dislike about my Sube. As far as the engine, the 2.2 gets the job done and after 147,000 miles, virtually trouble free with no major/expensive repairs. I'm sure the 2.5 would probably make a big difference in it though! (had my original clutch replaced at well over 100,000 miles) Outback AWD with a 2.2 would get my vote.

95 Legacy L Sedan (2wd) 147,000 miles. Several days ago, my brake light came on and stayed on after starting first thing in the morning. Has been on and off a few times only changing after car is turned off/on. Never changing while running. Today is the second day it has stayed on without changing. Just wondering if this is something that would show a code if I get it hooked up to a reader? I would imagine it is not related to the ABS since that light would have come on if it was. Have worked the E-Brake on and off repeatedly since this is the light that turns on when the e-brake is on thinking that may make a difference, but hasn't. Any thoughts or possible solutions would be greatly appreciated. THANKS!!!

yup, just break it and work the pieces out. Center punch works great. The redi cuts now come with double sided pads for installation. Urethane or silicone can be used as well.

We replace about A LOT of these every week. If the mirror backing plate is ok, (black plate that the mirror mounts into), I can hook you up with a replacement Redi-Cut mirror for $12.00 shipped to you. These mirrors are cut by Burco and are vehicle/mirror specific. If the backing plate is damaged or missing, go with the used housing. http://www.burcoinc.com/Replacement_Mirrors/Sideview/index.htm The price includes shipping. You will not get a better price on them. Recently hooked up Dusty (USMB "Handtool") with 2 mirrors and 2 heating pads for his project of changing over his standard mirrors to heated mirrors. Shoot him a PM to check out the quality of these mirrors. If interested, let me know. Would take less than a day to get from the warehouse and get shipped.

If you want to make a road trip north to York, I would be happy to help you out. I live about 2 minutes from work where we would have access to our full service auto glass garage. I do get down to Baltimore often as well. (was at Ruth's Chris Steakhouse near the Harbor last night!) Could also try and work out the timing for that. Would have to be Saturday or Sunday. I have done auto glass professionally for about 12 years now. In those years, I have dealt with HUNDREDS of leaks. I am confident we could get to the bottom of your problem. If interested, let me know.

In the process of cleaning and prepping my exterior for the winter, (95 Legacy Sedan) I came across some rust on the left fender in the corner where it meets the bumper at the rear of the wheel well. First noticed the paint was bubbling and figured I better sand it off and see what was happening. Well, ended up with a spot about the size of a nickel. Nothing on the inside of the panel. Start to grind it down with a 3M roloc 50 grit disc. Seems to be deep enough to thin out the panel too much in getting rid of it? Ended up leaving what was still there and just temporarily coated it with some touch up paint until I do a more permanent repair. What would you recommend I use to knock this stuff down? Read some about Rust Bullet, but does anyone have any other thoughts to get rid of it without major bodywork/paint, etc. This is the only rust I have and don't want it to get out of hand! Thanks in advance !

How far north of Scranton? My mother just moved south towards Lancaster after living in Clarks Summit for the last 10 years. My hometown is further northeast towards Honesdale. I usually travel 81 North and then pick up 6 near the Viewmont Mall. Like I said, I get up their fairly often. Can bring up some tools some time and pull some glass.

I have been looking for a good quality set for my 95 legacy sedan. Would buy that Subaru set in a heartbeat but my concern is their fitment with the gas lid/trunk release pulls in the corner in front of the seat. Would hate to get them and have to start chopping them up with scissors???

That hole is just the cowl cover. You might have more debris in the cowl tray which is located underneath. To get to it, you will first need to remove the wipers. You will see a rubber strip running along the edge of the cowl cover under the hood. There are clips that are mounted into the rubber and they are clipped thru holes in the cowl. You will understand when you look at it. Then there are clips (6 I think?) that are mounted to the underside of the cowl cover near the base of the windshield. These are released by sneaking a door panel tool between the glass and the cowl cover. BE CAREFUL not to break your windshield!! Once located, get the tool as close to the clip as possible and give it a pop and it will release.A door panel tool will help you tremendously to remove everything. Work the cowl cover out of your way and you should find the actual drains at each end. Check for debris. If you don't find any debris or the drains are clearly open, it is a good time to run some water in different areas to try and narrow down the possible problem. With that said, you probably want to do that first. Try running water heavy! if it is going to leak, make it leak so you can find it! Just keep it manageable so you can target an area at a time. Pulling the carpet back and clearing some trim away from the drivers floor/kick panel will make things a lot easier as well. On another note, had a customer today with a 90 Accord leaking in the trunk. Antenna, spoiler mounts, tailights in trunk and body and also license plate screws were ALL leaking. So many possibilities!!! P.S. Do you ever get west of phila? I am in York. If you do, I would be happy to check it out for you. I average about 5 of these (not subes!) a week so I am well versed at finding these nuisances. Just a thought.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2002924/showCustom-0/p-2002924/N-111+10201+600002298/c-10101 Here is one of the big name companies that make a repair kit. Problem with this one is that you pay for the volume amount of adhesive you get. You can get a single application pack a lot cheaper at most any auto parts stores. Napa, advance, they all carry them.

Cap, where in northeast pa are you? I am originally from up that way and get up there quite often. Concidentally, I do auto glass. Might be able to help you out. If it can be saved, I will save it. Let me know where abouts you are.

If you see rust coming out from around the windshield moldings, turn and run the other direction, fast!

Redskin, good idea! That is a new one for me but I bet it works great!

http://www.equalizer.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CT749&Category_Code=&Store_Code=2004 This is the tool that will remove it, but as Ross said, it really isn't necessary. The right side of the tool is for removing the clip. Left side is for putting it back on the handle before sliding back over the post for installation. You can see the clip on the left side of the picture. It is thin metal. We normally go to the rounded side and get a small pick tool (90 degree) and just pull it out. It will come out easy!!

Not sure about its availability in Canada? I would recommend you go to Tire Rack and have them ship it to you there. Might save you some running around looking for it? http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/aquapel/aquapel.jsp

The product you are asking about is from PPG and it is called Aquapel. They say 6 months. We have tested it and it is mostly true. All depends on the elements you are exposed to, where you live, driving habits, etc. Rain-X is no comparison to Aquapel! Since it came out about 4 years ago, it has always been a professionally applied system only. About 2 months ago, PPG announced they are now going to sell it direct to the public in single application packs. Talked to my PPG rep about 3 weeks ago and he said it is slowly becoming available at Auto Parts stores. Aquapel Website:http://www.ppg.com/gls_aquapel/default.htm PPG/Tire Rack Press Release: http://www.glassbytes.com/newsaquapel20050317.htm Your problem with your windshield I agree is Rain-X. We see this all the time! Rain-X is silicone based. Problem is the build up of the silicone. Once it stops working, the silicone remains on the glass causing the streaking. Every time you install more Rain-X, the thicker the layer of silicone that remains. On the other hand, Aquapel is Flouropolymer based which has been found to as effective without the side effects and build up of the silicone.

JD First of all, no problem. What I do for a living. Second. Yes, if everything is installed and aligned properly, you will be able to access the bolt holes via the openings in the inner door skin. This is why I recommended the 6" extension which will allow you to get the socket in there while still being able to tighten it. Again, when you remove the glass from the regulator, be careful. There are front and rear stabilizers that hold the glass. Just remember that when you remove the 2 bolts from the regulator, the glass will still move up and down, but will have a roller in the rear that goes up and down inside a track and the front will have a U shaped bracket that has the opening part of the U facing forward. then there is a flat piece of metal facing rearward. The U bracket MUST have the flat piece of metal in the middle of it BEFORE you reattach to the regulator. If not, it will jam and you will have to start over. If you run into any problems, give a shout!