Sydfloyd44

Don't mean to sound dumb but.... The state inspection is the least of your worries. Something is not right with the system and disabling the bulb is not going to fix anything. I have heard of this happening and after being checked for a code, it is many times a very simple and inexpensive fix rather than some mega $$$ bill just because the airbags are involved. I am sure someone around here has been thru this with their legacy???

The "free" windshield repair catch you talk about is the fact that most insurance companies will waive your comprehensive deductible and pay for the repair in full, making it "free" to you. If you do not have comprehensive, they will not pay for it. As far as DIY, don't bother!! I have tested them and they don't even come close! If you do try, keep in mind that when it "didn't seem to work right" and you then take it to a professional, just cough up the $$ for the new windshield because it cannot be re-repaired. After 11 years and over 13,000 windshield repairs, I can assure you the DIY is not the way to go!

Absolutely LOVE mine!!! Pulling out into heavy traffic while on a steep upgrade, can't beat it! (love to watch friends struggling with their e-brake trying to do the same thing!!) It sounds like yours just need a little adjusting which is done easily under the hood! Speaking of which, I have been wanting to ask a question about this. Why is it that the Hill Hold will not stop from rolling forward? Doesn't seem logical to me but that is the way it is?

Alright, we must have been typing at the same time gbhrps. Pretty good advice if I must say so myself!

One of the most common places I have seen water entering the trunk compartment is thru the seals for the rear lights. (brakes, etc) Pull back the trim on the walls of the trunk (best if you just remove them temporarily) and then start running water. If possible, drop down the back seats and watch with a flashlight inside while someone else runs the hose. Not totally necessary, but will help see anything as it is coming in rather than hosing and then searching for traces. Will be curious to know if you find anything. P.S. Don't be afraid to push it with the amount/force of the water. If it is going to leak, MAKE IT LEAK!! Seals should be able to take it!! If not, they need some work. Now saying that, don't push it by using a high pressure car wash. A garden hose will work just fine. Another option is to check with your local auto glass company. We use Ultrasonic Leak Detectors which makes it much easier to locate any breaks in seals or body seams. (car MUST be dry for them to work properly!) Letting us know your results would be greatly appreciated.

Once mounted, make sure the door glass clears the rear of the speaker!!!! It is VERY common to have the door glass hit the speaker and you can end up with a broken window!!! Have some spacers on hand to shim the speaker. Just replaced a door glass last week for a guy that didn't do this and he just kept running the door glass till it eventually broke.

No need to remove anything except for the broken glass. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT HAVE A HEATED MIRROR BEFORE DOING ANYTHING!!!! (winter package) WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AND GLOVES!!! Be cautious not to damage the backing plate, which is what the mirror attaches to.

I would highly recommend NITRILE gloves!! They fit like latex gloves but are a much higher grade. We use them all the time when installing auto glass. Mainly because the polyurethane adhesives are a bear to get off your hands (nearly impossible at times!), but they are also chemical resistant.

Great advice!!! Just FYI.... Most parts are NOT available for the Daewoo vehicles!! GM was originally talking about taking over Daewoo but they faced HUGE lawsuits from current vehicle owners and dealers because their goal was to continue manufacturing them only for the foreign market. I think what they ended up doing was to purchase controlling interest of their parent company which kept the suits off GM's back. I have several customers in need of glass for their Daewoos and they are stuck with windows missing in their cars!!! No glass!!!

forester2002s said what I was thinking. Last year I crashed my heat shield. Removed it and haven't replaced it yet. End of last summer I was smelling melted plastic and sure enough, looked under the car and a plastic shopping back hit the converter and melted to it. It took at least a month till it burned off and stopped smelling. Check your entire exhaust for any signs of something sticking to it!!!!

I know Valvoline Oil Change Centers do it. Not sure where in Philly you are but I know there is one to the north in Trexlertown if you get up there at all. http://www.vioc.com/serv_fuel.asp

I'll 2nd that!! Had mine put on about 3 weeks ago and I am definately happy with the purchase. Paid $95. each. I think there was a thread recently about all season tires but I wanted to wait till I could test them a bit. Ed, I have been playing in the same snow as I am a little west of you.

Before you go pulling the nozzle off, you may want to take 2 minutes and make sure the hose isn't blocked or unhooked at one of the connections. Start at the nozzle and continue tracing the hose back and when you see a connection, remove it and make sure their is fluid making it to that point. Just a thought!

As far as the windshield goes.... The reason the windshield broke is because the windshield is PART OF the Airbag system. When an airbag deploys, it is a misconception that it is strictly the airbag coming at you that holds you. As the airbag deploys and you are thrust into it, the airbag has to have something behind it for support. Drivers side obviously uses the steering wheel. Passenger side uses the windshield. As an auto glass pro, seeing people trying to replace their windshield with no experience or letting a "hack" replace it is really scary. When I replace a windshield (about 10 times a day), we must keep the vehicle in our possession for 1/2 hour until the adhesives set up enough to meet the FMVSS. If the vehicle has a Passenger side airbag, it is 1 hour (currently). If the airbag would deploy before this time, the windshield will fly out of the car and the airbag would just deflate. As far as the rear view hitting you in the head... Believe it or not, that is SUPPOSED TO HAPPEN! No! It is not supposed to hit you in the head!!!! Many vehicles are now being designed with what are known as "break away" mirrors. There were some cases where the airbags were deploying and the rear view, staying in place and cracking were causing a premature deflation of the airbag. Now, when the airbag deploys and hits the rear view, the airbag wins the battle. Although the mirror becomes a projectile, it is minor compared to an airbag failure. (in a serious accident anyway!!)

Cool idea. Never thought much about this. I replace an average of 2 side mirrors a day. We use the Burco Redi products as you mentioned. http://www.burcoinc.com/index.htm The new Redi Heat product line has only been out for a year or 2. It is the mirror with the heater already attached and the wiring prongs in the proper location for the vehicle. Burco also makes the heater pads available separate, but sometimes a slight mod is required to the mirrors backing plate to get it to fit because of the location of the wiring prongs. As some of you were asking, the Burco Redi Heat line is NOT available for all vehicles!! Only if the vehicle has heated mirrors as a factory option, Burco might have it available.(there inventory of these is still new, but growing!) Other than that, you would need to purchase a new mirror and also the heater pad. The heater pad usually needs to be trimmed to fit. Well, if anyone is interested, you can probably try and get the mirror and pad (or the pre-man set) from your local auto glass shop. Be prepared, the pre-manufactured heated mirror can be quite expensive!!! ($65.00 retail) If you are interested, shoot me an e-mail and I can check on it for you. ONLY for the good people here on the boards (who have helped me repeatedly over the last couple of years!!) I can ship the mirror and element for cost plus shipping. Let me know the Year, make, model and I will get back to you with price.

I was looking into getting a set of X-Ones from Michelin since they have been HIGHLY rated all season tires. Unfortunately, no longer being made. They are being replaced by the Michelin Harmony. After MUCH review and research, I went with the Harmony about 2 weeks ago. Their ratings are excellent and have read many positive reviews. I agree! They are quiet, excellent handling, GREAT wet traction and I am just waiting for the next snow. Sure nice to have that "sure-footed" feeling again now that those CRAPPY Goodyear's are off!!! P.S. Had a long talk with my mechanic when I went to pick up my car after getting the tires put on. He was telling me some CRAZY stories about some of the mods he sees people doing to make their cars (including a couple local subes) to go faster and faster. Yet, they do NO mods to the brakes and then they look at putting a full set of tires on for $100. My point, you can make your car go as fast as you want but if your brakes and your tires are not top notch, won't much matter when you are splattered in the trees dead because you couldn't stop or get any traction under you.

This is not my area of expertise, but.... Timing belt??? Had it happen to me before and it would turn and turn but not start. Just a thought????? 95 Leg timing belt replace is recommended at 60K.

I have a 95 Legacy also and I went thru the same thing. Check the hinge closest to the mirror. It tightens with a Torx from the passenger side.

As the window operates up and down, there is usually one or 2 felt (black) lined guides that help to stabilize the glass. Quite commonly, these get contaminated or wear out with age. As the glass slides along them, the contamination (depending on what is on it) can slowly but surely scratch the glass. On the Subarus, they are replaceable. Most of them are held on by a 10mm bolt or a simple clip. You will need to remove the door panel to get to it though. You can first check by putting the window all of the way down, then pull the horizontal weatherstip that is attached to the very top of the door edge and touching the inside of the glass away from the glass. You might be able to confirm that the scratches are at this location. It is possible (?) that you can see it, but if not, you will still need to remove the door panel. And, yes, it will trash your tint!!!

Take the door panel back off and make sure that the guides that are mounted on the glass are IN the tracks in the front AND rear of the glass. This is very important and might be causing your problem. These guides help the glass remain stable in/out and up/down. Keep in mind that these guides (white plastic) are probably the most common problem we see with these frameless window setups. Too much stress and "snap"! It is also possible that the arms on the regulator are bent, but doesn't sound like it.

Sounds to me like the w/s might be the culprit and yes, avk is right, the warranty is for "as long as you own the vehicle". It is a standard in our industry. Sunroof is not out of the question either! Here is what you do to test the windshield. Close up the car, grab a water hose (NO high pressure car wash, just a garden hose!). Start spraying full stream at the top of the windshield. Spray at the top molding going up the windshield and then down the molding on the body side. If you see water coming in stop!!! If not, spray for about 1 or 2 minutes each way. Then get in the passenger side (easier with the steering wheel). Now, you are going to be sitting basically backwards in the pass seat. The top of your head should be against the inside of the windshield. Look up to the top, you may need to pull the headliner down slightly to see the black (urethane) adhesive in between the glass (top) and the pinchweld (metal at bottom) Any water in there means it is your windshield. *** You also want to look there for any rust!!! If you see any, STOP AND TAKE IT TO AN AUTO GLASS COMPANY YOU CAN TRUST!!!!! (send me an e-mail also)*** The top center is where most techs "join" the urethane. (shoot 1/2 of top from dr. side, then the other 1/2 of top from pass. side, then mend the 2 together) If it is not mended, can be cause for leak. Check this out and post back or e-mail me. I will get you in the right direction to fix it! Good Luck!! P.S. You are better off taping the sunroof off than the w/s to test first. Because of the odd shapes of the moldings, it is hard to tape them off properly to ensure an accurate test. the sunroof has cleaner lines than the w/s moldings. Make sure you use NON-POROUS tape!!! (duct tape IS porous) We use electrical tape exclusively.

Been there, done that on my Jeep!!! I will NEVER buy another "aftermarket" car warranty again. Same exact thing happened and as someone else stated, this not an uncommon problem! I would discourage anyone from spending the money on one of those warranties. Instead, buy it from the manufacturer. You are then dealing with the people who are also doing the service. Bummer for your headaches!! I do have to give a "hats off" to the dealer for working with you!!

We install and have good luck with Trico Exact Fit II. Most mfgs. recommend replacing blades every 6 mos (depending on driving habits) or up to a year so you got a fair deal. Most of the Trico's we sell price around $10 to $15 a pair. Small price to pay to see clear. Just a tip, if you take some glass cleaner (we use sprayway which has no ammonia) and spray it on a paper towel, then *carefully* wipe down the blades, you will probably find all kinds of black junk coming off. This will help their efficiency a bit as long as they are not in need of replacement. I do this to my blades about once a month.

Sounds to me like the previous owner beat the crap out of it all while probably never servicing it. I have owned 5 Subes including the 95 Legacy I own now and all of your problems added up are more problems than I have ever had in all 5 of mine combined over the last 15 years. Subes can take a lot, but they ARE NOT Hummers in the off road, Corvettes on the high speeds, nor Lexus' for their impeccable design. But, try to cross any one of them and you can trash it which is what it sounds like happened to your Sube. I am obviously just guessing here and I can sympathize with you, but overall, wouldn't give up my Subes for ANYTHING!!! As far as the dealer, you would be hard pressed to find ANY dealer that is going to stand behind a *used* car for all of those problems. It is just easier and less expensive to lose you as a customer.

There should be a "C" shaped clip that wraps around the outside of the socket at the end of the strut. It will be about 1/4" wide and fairly thin metal. When the socket is popped onto the ball, this C clip is what holds the ball. The C clip is probably either shot (can happen after it has been removed one or more times) or it may just need to be torqued in a bit. Just a warning... Adjusting the C clip can ruin it. If it gets bent out of the exact position, it ends up doing what is happening to you now. It MUST lay tight to the outside curvature of the socket or it will fail. Had a customer the other day break his rear window in his 03 Expedition. He had to remove the struts to avoid any further damage to the body. He then lost the C clip and it is not available separate. Good news, new strut was only $21.00. If you want to truly fix the problem, you may need to just get a new strut which will have the new clip on it already.