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Feanor

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Everything posted by Feanor

  1. Feanor
    With a stock air filter/air box
  2. Feanor
    I will try to get pics.. Yeah, my engine definitely just has a stock carburetor.
  3. Feanor
    There are two small pipes that come out horizontally from the engine right by where the exhaust pipes come down out of the engine. These two small pipes have been cut and welded shut. Then, there are other ports (or holes, I don't know) in the engine block that I am pretty sure are for sensors (like 02 sensors etc.) that don't have the sensor plugged into them. Instead they just have a bolt or something else screwed in, and are welded shut. Besides the small pipes, there are only one or maybe two ports that are plugged like this. I should've taken pics, but now the shop where it's at is closed, but thanks for the info.
  4. Feanor
    So I just had my engine pulled out of my '83 Brat to replace the rear-main seal. Turns out it didn't even have a rear-main seal. Anyways I also found out that the entire EGR system has been plugged. The EA81 in this car is not original so I was wondering if Brats had an EGR system in 1983. If they did, then my engine has been swapped illegally and won't pass inspection; however, if they didn't, then plugging up the EGR system makes sense and is legal. I need to know fast, so any information would be greatly appreciated!
  5. Feanor
    This is all weird because when you look for parts, the ECT sensor is single-pronged, while the fan switch is two-pronged. I see a single-pronged switch on the radiator, and I see a two-pronged switch on the intake manifold, passenger side.. How could they be switched like that?
  6. Feanor
    Just put on new KYB front struts. Sooo much better now. The old ones were completely frozen haha.
  7. Feanor
    For the EA81 engine, and 1983 Brat, does anyone know where the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is? There is a sensor near the thermostat housing (which is by where the upper radiator hose connects to the intake manifold I think, passenger side of engine bay) but this sensor is two-pronged which means that, according to all parts catalogs that I've looked at, it is the radiator fan switch, not the temp. sensor that connects with the dashboard temp. gauge. The temperature sensor is just one pronged (at least the aftermarkets that you can buy are one pronged).
  8. Feanor
    Thanks for the tip Mykeys Toy. Improving the big three looks easier to do than upgrading the entire headlamp circuit.
  9. Feanor
    ok, I think he mentions something about that in his article under the heading "SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS FOR GROUND-SWITCHED SYSTEMS "
  10. Feanor
    What is a switched ground?
  11. Feanor
    I just found this article, which explains all of the ways to set up a headlamp circuit that will deliver optimum power to the headlights in a car. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html What do you guys think about what he says? You can read the article, but most of it is just over my head. From what I understood, he suggests putting the relays closer to the power source or the headlamps, using thicker gauged wiring, and I think that's it...
  12. Feanor
    And where can I buy headlight relays? I don't see them on rockauto.com
  13. Feanor
    Oh, Thanks a ton for the tip. I would've had no idea. What are the advantages of replacing with a Bosch relay?
  14. Feanor
    Does anybody know if the 32/36 DGEV model Carburetor from Weber Carbs is the only model that would be compatible with the EA81 engine? Also, are weber carbs recommended? What do you all think?
  15. Feanor
    Oh, and would I only check the wiring that goes to the headlights or alternator? or could bad wiring anywhere be causing this problem?
  16. Feanor
    So my Brat has always had pretty weak headlights, but lately they have been downright unreliable. My car runs completely fine, but when I go to turn the lights on at night, my headlights flicker off. When they turn off, I also hear a strange electrical sound (sounds like a servo or something like that). It doesn't happen every single time that I try to run my headlights, but pretty close. I don't think it's the battery, and I already took my alternator out and had it tested, but it passed the test just fine at O'Reilly's. Could it only be bad wiring that is doing this, or does anybody have any other ideas of what the problem might be? p.s. The right headlight shines weaker than the left. I don't know if that is significant or not.
  17. Feanor
    Thanks for the help, but what does "stant" mean?
  18. Feanor
    How accessible are the Thermostat and the temperature sensor in the EA81 engine? Would they be really easy to replace, or would you have to take a bunch of stuff apart?
  19. Feanor
    How accessible are the Thermostat and the temperature sensor in the EA81 engine? Would they be really easy to replace, or would you have to take a bunch of stuff apart?
  20. Feanor
    I found the problem! There was a loose wire that attaches to something not part of the engine (cylinder about the size of a can of peaches, maybe bigger. it's towards the top of the engine bay, centered on the left side) so I finally saw it sparking and grounding early. So I just pushed the wire on tighter. It must have been looser when it was colder because the thing it was attached to contracted a little bit with the cold. That's all I can think of, but it hasn't happened since so that's good.
  21. Feanor
    Ok, so with the oncoming of Spring here in Utah, which tends to roller coaster between 30 degrees and 60 degrees (sometimes 70 degrees), I have noticed that it only does the clicking and lagging when it is cold. Super weird. I haven't gotten around to seriously trying to repair because I have had to replace leaky brake calipers and a leaky water pump and a leaky oil pump among other things. But it really only happens when it's cold. I can hear electrical spark-clicking-or-snapping sounds, and the engine will lag when i accelerate when this happens. The lagging is always accompanied with the spark-noises. It does it when the engine is idling too and you can feel the engine rock a little whenever you hear the spark noises. I haven't had the problem where I can't run my lights and defrost at the same time anymore, but then again, I haven't needed my defrost since it is spring. However, my volt meter is all over the place, and tends to be lower when it's cold, but I don't know whether or not to trust the old volt meter anyways. Any ideas? I will try to get the alternator tested soon.
  22. Feanor
    Hey, I tried to email you, but your email address didn't work, so I will give you the information here. I bought an '83 Brat this last summer here in Bountiful, Utah. It had about 190,000 miles on the car itself, but the engine and trans were from a different car and they had about 135,000 miles each. It had undergone extensive repairs on deep rust spots, but had really bad paint since it was two different colors(I repainted it later). It ran well, but leaked lots of oil. the VIN # is JF2AT53B7DF504183. The body was pretty banged up, but not too bad (I had a lot of that repaired later too). it sold for $2,600. I bought it around June 20th I think.
  23. Feanor
    It has stopped with all of the problems now. Could either be due to either the new water pump, the fact that the alternator belt is tightly fitted now (from installing new water pump), or because it's not zero degrees any more. Who knows?
  24. Feanor
    This is my 1983 BRAT that I bought this summer. It was in pretty good shape when I had bought it, but it needed a paint job for sure, haha. The previous owner had put hours into it, and it was running well. He had also cut out and re-welded all of the large rust spots/holes. I had been looking for a BRAT for a while, and this one was in good enough shape to give me the gumption to purchase. Here is a complete list of what the seller did to it before I got it (besides body work and rust replacement): At 167,000 miles Converted Trans to 4 speed single range 4WD Manual out of an '81 GL At 175,000 Front right wheel bearing replaced At 191,000 Engine/Transmission swap. 4WD Dual-range, 4 speed Manual trans with a bigger clutch from an '84 GL wagon. Engine still an EA81. 135,000 miles on those. Valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, 2 crank seats, carb gasket New clutch disc, new pilot bearing, new fluids New balljoints, new tie rod ends, new brake rotors, rebuilt calipers, remanufactured CV-axles (auto zone), new brake pads, front wheel bearings repacked with fresh grease, alignment New performance exhaust Front shocks/struts out of a low mile '86 Brat New Monroe rear struts Bucket seats from an eagle talon installed Custom rear bumper installed Front and rear body cut flush with bumpers Then, when I was in the process of buying it he sealed the undercarriage and coated it with Rhino Liner and coated the bed with Rhino Liner also. After I bought it, he did extensive body work to both doors and the front fenders, primed it, and painted it (double stage paint job with pearl metallic black paint with red flecks that show when the sun shines directly onto the car) He also installed another step panel, so now both sides have the secret step panel. I then put in a carpet kit (which wasn't even wide enough for the car, which was great) and have spent many many hours cleaning and detailing the interior. I also broke all of the plastic fins off the vents because the plastic was all crumbly and nasty. It looks pretty clean now. Since I have bought the car, I have made it my mission to get it to stop leaking, so I have since had new oil pump housing gaskets installed and the crank seal replaced. When we bled the brakes, the master cylinder froze up, so we installed a new master cylinder. It was still leaking, so we replaced a large part of the oil pump that was cracked and put in a new oil sensor. Then the water pump and front brake calipers started leaking so we replaced those. I just barely ordered new rear drum brake adjuster screws because the old ones are completely worn out. I also have new KYB front struts, but haven't put them on yet. The mechanic told me that the only thing that they can see that is still leaking is the rear main seal, but I am waiting to replace that since the engine must be removed to replace that one. I am hoping that it will definitely not leak after this.
  25. Feanor
    Will do, thanks for the info. I will let you know how it works out.
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